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feel a loss in power, but boost reads fine...

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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 05:36 AM
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feel a loss in power, but boost reads fine...

If it was my second turbo going out or failing should i still be boosting the same psi? cos I am.
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 06:32 AM
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Are you getting what feels like rev limit but at low revs ,like 4000, with boost readings of up to 1bar on primary and then dropping to.5/6 after secondary comes in?
Si
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 06:38 AM
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From: Norfolk UK
Also check the adv tech section a post "wiered boost issue" and in the FAQ section.
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 08:12 AM
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Boost pattern, what is your boost pattern?
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 05:08 AM
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I'm running non-seq so the boost is smooth straight through the range up to 8psi, boost starts to pick up around 2800-3200
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 10:26 AM
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Shouldn't it go to 10? Are you getting any ecu codes?

For instance, I was getting code 11. My air intake thermo sensor was bad, causing rich running conditions. Under partial throttle application it was fine. Full throttle would get full boost, but would NOT pull hard. It fealt boggy, and less responsive than partial throttle. I am running sequential, but I don't think that matters to the air intake thermo sensor.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 11:01 AM
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oh yes it does matter!
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by GOOFYROTOR
oh yes it does matter!
Could you elaborate on that comment?
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 11:26 AM
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Sounds like you just have a leak somewhere. Check all your couplings, I'd actually pull them off and inspect them from the inside for small tears. You might want to kind of pull on them cause sometimes its hard to see if one is ripped unless your pulling on it.

Good luck,
Stephen
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 11:28 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
mine would do that when a clamp was loose, it would boost to the same psi (or slightly more) but not pull as hard
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 02:48 AM
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From: LA
Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
Could you elaborate on that comment?
if your sensor is "bad", you get a "check" light. This light will tell the ECU to retard the timing so, the engine is running in a "safe mode".
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GOOFYROTOR
if your sensor is "bad", you get a "check" light. This light will tell the ECU to retard the timing so, the engine is running in a "safe mode".
you will only get a code if it is out of spec. shorted or open. variable semsors can fail within spec like a coolant temp sensor that read -33f all the time
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 01:01 AM
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From: LA
Originally Posted by mad_7tist
you will only get a code if it is out of spec. shorted or open. variable semsors can fail within spec like a coolant temp sensor that read -33f all the time

so,...................are you giving a definition of a BAD sensor? or just want to be technical.
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