You dont need to drain the coolant. The manafold was the first thing i took off when i got my car. If your using a prybar to take the elbow off there is somthing seriously wrong. You did take all four bolts off of the elbow right?? If so i would tap it with a rubber mallet if they used some type of spray adhesive and thats ALL thats holding it on.

The coil harness is accesable once you get the elbow off and you shouldnt need to pull the whole manafold to tap into it for the aftermarket ignition system. If you have never done any electrical wiring or know the principles behind it, I would suggest getting some help tapping into the harness.

It seems like you may be a little in over your head. I have been working on cars for over 10 years and these cars are one of the most difficult to tackle. Im constantly learning new things. So dont get distressed. Also you can use any FC coil for the upgrade, not just the TII. I just got one for $25 shipped from the 2nd gen parts classifieds. They are not that hard to get ahold of.

 

haha someone else said drain the coolant, and the elbow came off when my friend got here, he just pulled it off i got the TB off myself, and yeah a rubber mallet would be a better choice, tis why i ask before i do lol...

other than that i got everything off correctly, marked all the lines, and reassembled everything together again correctly, and the car runs...score 1 me

i didnt actually install the fc1000 tho cause i got confused when i saw all the wires and the different coils, i decided i should consult someone first that actually knows which wire is which and how to properly prep the wires to be connected.

the pry bar would be pushing against the elbow...not jamming in the actual gasket...i have common sense enuf to know that that would make a permanent dent in the metal which the gasket is trying to seal

and there is no extra 0 on 14000 (includes all the stuff you see in my sig + labor +unneccessary newb ****)

 

Damn dude thats alot of money. I think i have spent that much if i included the price of my car. You must have some deep pockets

 

i figured it would pay off to wait after i couldnt get it off myself, and my friend made me look dumb when he just pulled it off...

yeah i was at first, and my questions were about the wiring...

you beat me to it...i dont have the proper connections or knowhow to tackle it myself



that blow to the head really messed my judgement up, plus i think the fact i ran outta my prescription a couple days ago didnt help

 

**** man i got my car for 14,400...O_o the other is on top of that ****

p.s. if i could go back and do it again and actually do most of the work myself (assuming i would know how to) it would probably be around 7000-8000

 

 

okay so i turn on my car this morning and the idle shoots to 2200 and is pretty rough, i connected all the vacuum lines and checked the harness plugs...

could i have knocked a wire loose from one of the coil harness plugs>?

 

Did you remember to connect the rubber vacuum line to brakes? It's on the UIM near the the firewall. I left that off once and it created a huge vacuum leak like you are describing.

 

Which shop was this? Feel free to reply with a PM if you don't want to air dirty laundry.


-s-

 

okay there was this clear hard plastic looking hose that i broke that went to the brakes, i patched it up, but before i even did anything it looked like it was ghetto rigged with silicone hose and zip ties...is this my problem?

 

any ideas? that clear plastic hose is really brittle and breaks pretty easily if i tighten something on it too hard...suggestions on what to replace it with?

 

couple questions...



what is this thing my finger is on, another ghetto fabulous fabrication no doubt

 

Helps to drain it down some, per shop manual page f-77 if you've ever read it. Unless you like playing with antifreeze.

 

playing with antifreeze was my favorite childhood game!!! j/k, but in the pic dont they have the thing blocked off? why would my shop do that?

 

Somebody has disconnected the coolant hose that goes to the Throttle Body. It is a normal modification, but usually they take it all the way back to the pump housing and the rear iron and block them off.

tom

 

They disabled your warm up system, just be careful not to drive it too hard before it's warmed up. In the second picture, right where your 3rd finger knuckle is the hose that connects to UIM for brakes. If you forget to connect that, your idle will jump really high.

 

I'm trying to picture what you're talking about, can you post a picture?

 

Warm up system needs to be disabled properly IF you want to continue keeping the coolant lines disconnected.

check this out - http://www.fd3s.net/throttle_body_hose_removal.html


tom

 

red hose with uncut zip tie on it...first pic

 

that is connected, pretty big hose hard to miss it.

 

That looks like a boost Gauge "poor man's" tie in point with an existing 6mm silicone vacuum hose. Trace out the clear hard line. Bet it goes inside the car to a gauge.

tom

 

this is probably of some importance involving diagnosing this problem...

so i put the silencer in the exhaust so i can try to start it up late cuz its way too loud otherwise...when i started it up and it jumped to 2000 rpms, there was this pretty loud whinning noise comin from the engine...

is it safe to leave the car running like this for a min to try to find the source?

when my friend comes over later tonight ill try to video tape the engine starting up so you guys can hear the sound...

 

thats probably it...the boost guage thing, well i cant trust that guage anymore cuz that line is blocked now internally =/

would a vacuum leak make a pretty loud whinning noise?

 

Is it staying that high, or will it settle down after warm up? Try starting in gear or blip the throttle. Looks like they disabled warm up system, but never know what they did.

 

well i didnt leave it on for more than a couple seconds and blippin throttle didnt do anything, is it safe to let it run until warm-up you think?