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Hey All, been having a hell of a time getting my speedo to work. I've done a ton of research/searching on this and am stuck unfortunately. I have tested the wiring all the way up to the cluster, its definitely good to go there. My mileage does show but doesnt increment with driving. I replaced all the following capacitors:
C1: 10uF, 50V, DigiKey P/N: 493-1890-ND - Manufacturers P/N: UPW1H100MDDC11: 2.2uF, 50V, DigiKey P/N: P13462-NDC2: 47uF, 25V, DigiKey P/N: P5539-ND - manufacturers P/N: ECA-1EHG470C3: 1000uF, 6.3V, DigiKey P/N: P10199-ND - manufacturers P/N: EEU-FC0J102C4: 1uF, 50V, DigiKey P/N: 565-1332-ND - Manufacturers P/N: EKMG500ELL1R0ME11D
C6
C12
and smd IC4
To be honest, nothing really looked bad or anything but I figured better off replacing with known good.
At this point, Id love to find a diagram that goes over the speedo board specifically and how it functions. Trying to track down what is failing and trying to avoid spending $5-700 on repairs if I send it out. Or if anyone has a suspicion on what needs replaced, I am happy to give it a go!
Hey All, been having a hell of a time getting my speedo to work. I've done a ton of research/searching on this and am stuck unfortunately. I have tested the wiring all the way up to the cluster, its definitely good to go there. My mileage does show but doesnt increment with driving. I replaced all the following capacitors:
C1: 10uF, 50V, DigiKey P/N: 493-1890-ND - Manufacturers P/N: UPW1H100MDDC11: 2.2uF, 50V, DigiKey P/N: P13462-NDC2: 47uF, 25V, DigiKey P/N: P5539-ND - manufacturers P/N: ECA-1EHG470C3: 1000uF, 6.3V, DigiKey P/N: P10199-ND - manufacturers P/N: EEU-FC0J102C4: 1uF, 50V, DigiKey P/N: 565-1332-ND - Manufacturers P/N: EKMG500ELL1R0ME11D
C6
C12
and smd IC4
To be honest, nothing really looked bad or anything but I figured better off replacing with known good.
At this point, Id love to find a diagram that goes over the speedo board specifically and how it functions. Trying to track down what is failing and trying to avoid spending $5-700 on repairs if I send it out. Or if anyone has a suspicion on what needs replaced, I am happy to give it a go!
It could be that your vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the transmission is simply not connected - Are you running an aftermarket ECU? If so, you would have chucked the OEM emissions (EM) harness, and either purchased an ECU harness from someone or built your own, which means it's entirely possible that whoever did it neglected to include the replacement wiring needed to connect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the transmission to the instrument cluster via OEM connector <X14>. Here's the excerpt from the relevant page in the FSM wiring diagram. The wires I highlighted in yellow from the (EM) harness section are the connections you'll need to restore if they are presently missing. Basically you'll need to connect the 2x VSS wires from connector <C1-08> to <X14> as shown in the schematic. The <C1-09> connector only applies for auto trans models.
It could be that your vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the transmission is simply not connected - Are you running an aftermarket ECU? If so, you would have chucked the OEM emissions (EM) harness, and either purchased an ECU harness from someone or built your own, which means it's entirely possible that whoever did it neglected to include the replacement wiring needed to connect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the transmission to the instrument cluster via OEM connector <X14>. Here's the excerpt from the relevant page in the FSM wiring diagram. The wires I highlighted in yellow from the (EM) harness section are the connections you'll need to restore if they are presently missing. Basically you'll need to connect the 2x VSS wires from connector <C1-08> to <X14> as shown in the schematic. The <C1-09> connector only applies for auto trans models.
Thanks for the input, its not a wiring issue. I am on a haltech but I stripped the X14 harness out and connected everything up. I used a multimeter at the cluster plug and drove around, the sensor and shows the voltage increase/stay steady/drop in voltage based on speed. I'm fairly versed in wiring and have all my other gauges working (tach and oil pressure fed from haltech). It seems like something on the speedo specific board is not working. Thats why I'm looking for a diagram or something on the speedo board specifically.
Thanks for the input, its not a wiring issue. I am on a haltech but I stripped the X14 harness out and connected everything up. I used a multimeter at the cluster plug and drove around, the sensor and shows the voltage increase/stay steady/drop in voltage based on speed. I'm fairly versed in wiring and have all my other gauges working (tach and oil pressure fed from haltech). It seems like something on the speedo specific board is not working. Thats why I'm looking for a diagram or something on the speedo board specifically.
Roger that, I just wanted to mention it because various electrical issues due to replacement of the EM harness when installing an aftermarket ECU are pretty common, and your symptoms (no speedo & no miles incrementing on the odo) point to a possibly bad or missing VSS signal. Recommend reaching out to Michael Gagne; look him up on Facebook - he's THE go-to guy for solving FD cluster problems & restoring them. He's located in Canada.
Roger that, I just wanted to mention it because various electrical issues due to replacement of the EM harness when installing an aftermarket ECU are pretty common, and your symptoms (no speedo & no miles incrementing on the odo) point to a possibly bad or missing VSS signal. Recommend reaching out to Michael Gagne; look him up on Facebook - he's THE go-to guy for solving FD cluster problems & restoring them. He's located in Canada.
Ya totally understand, it was the first thing i realized when I started this journey of getting the gauges working. I did all the wiring myself and the stuff I didnt do was a Haltech 13b terminated harness.
I'm trying to avoid sending this thing out, I dont want to deal with shipping it out of the country and waiting for it to maybe get smashed up in customs. Wonder if he'd just give me some advice. I want to respect his profession at the same time, I dont mind paying for help, just wanting to avoid shipping it out.
Ya totally understand, it was the first thing i realized when I started this journey of getting the gauges working. I did all the wiring myself and the stuff I didnt do was a Haltech 13b terminated harness.
I'm trying to avoid sending this thing out, I dont want to deal with shipping it out of the country and waiting for it to maybe get smashed up in customs. Wonder if he'd just give me some advice. I want to respect his profession at the same time, I dont mind paying for help, just wanting to avoid shipping it out.
^From personal experience, I know he would. After making a few I/O changes with my previous ECU (Link G4+ Fury), I suddenly had a problem where if I just key on the ignition but not start the car everything with the cluster was normal - odo read correctly, gauges and the tach (driven by the G4+) did its power-on sweep to redline & back to zero as it normally should. But if I START & run the engine, the odo went dark/dead, speedo & tach were dead and the coolant & oil pressure gauges were both reading full scale max! Couldn't figure it out and was ready to send it off to Mr. Gagne to repair. After chatting with him on FB messenger, he helped me figure out why it went wacky and it was an easy fix - I just needed to add a new wire to provide a path to ground for the cluster!
As it turns out, one of my I/O wiring changes was to use the cluster's digital speed output to the OEM ECU in lieu of the direct parallel connection to the VSS analog output signal I had originally that was shared by the G4+ ECU and the OEM cluster. Reason I made that change is because my speedo tends to read a bit too high - now I know that its calibration is off, but I suspected at the time it was because of me sharing the VSS analog output between the cluster & G4+. Mr. Gagne explained to me that when I made that change, the cluster lost one its ground paths that it needed to sink current from the tack/speedo/odo circuits which it normally gets from the EM harness.
^From personal experience, I know he would. After making a few I/O changes with my previous ECU (Link G4+ Fury), I suddenly had a problem where if I just key on the ignition but not start the car everything with the cluster was normal - odo read correctly, gauges and the tach (driven by the G4+) did its power-on sweep to redline & back to zero as it normally should. But if I START & run the engine, the odo went dark/dead, speedo & tach were dead and the coolant & oil pressure gauges were both reading full scale max! Couldn't figure it out and was ready to send it off to Mr. Gagne to repair. After chatting with him on FB messenger, he helped me figure out why it went wacky and it was an easy fix - I just needed to add a new wire to provide a path to ground for the cluster!
As it turns out, one of my I/O wiring changes was to use the cluster's digital speed output to the OEM ECU in lieu of the direct parallel connection to the VSS analog output signal I had originally that was shared by the G4+ ECU and the OEM cluster. Reason I made that change is because my speedo tends to read a bit too high - now I know that its calibration is off, but I suspected at the time it was because of me sharing the VSS analog output between the cluster & G4+. Mr. Gagne explained to me that when I made that change, the cluster lost one its ground paths that it needed to sink current from the tack/speedo/odo circuits which it normally gets from the EM harness.
Thanks Pete! Ill reach out, hopefully there is some dumb diod or something that needs replaced.
^From personal experience, I know he would. After making a few I/O changes with my previous ECU (Link G4+ Fury), I suddenly had a problem where if I just key on the ignition but not start the car everything with the cluster was normal - odo read correctly, gauges and the tach (driven by the G4+) did its power-on sweep to redline & back to zero as it normally should. But if I START & run the engine, the odo went dark/dead, speedo & tach were dead and the coolant & oil pressure gauges were both reading full scale max! Couldn't figure it out and was ready to send it off to Mr. Gagne to repair. After chatting with him on FB messenger, he helped me figure out why it went wacky and it was an easy fix - I just needed to add a new wire to provide a path to ground for the cluster!
As it turns out, one of my I/O wiring changes was to use the cluster's digital speed output to the OEM ECU in lieu of the direct parallel connection to the VSS analog output signal I had originally that was shared by the G4+ ECU and the OEM cluster. Reason I made that change is because my speedo tends to read a bit too high - now I know that its calibration is off, but I suspected at the time it was because of me sharing the VSS analog output between the cluster & G4+. Mr. Gagne explained to me that when I made that change, the cluster lost one its ground paths that it needed to sink current from the tack/speedo/odo circuits which it normally gets from the EM harness.
how'd you get ahold of him? I sent him a message on fb but he's not getting back, wondering if there is some email address or something thats a better avenue then Facebook?
how'd you get ahold of him? I sent him a message on fb but he's not getting back, wondering if there is some email address or something thats a better avenue then Facebook?
