MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

As most of you probably seen in the past couple of weeks i made a thread about my rear end having lots of play causing it to clunk really bad. I got some guys saying it could be the spider gears,some of you said it could be reshiming the ring and pinion and so on. I decided to just buy another differential instead of playing around trying to fix the 3.90 that i should have changed with my auto to manual swap. so to make a long story short i bough a low mile 94 diff with a T2 swap/internals already done. I did a little research and i found out the FD diff where not intended to withstand drag racing beatings that's why i decided to buy this one instead of a stock FD differential.

Now that i have the differential i was wondering what is it that you guys change/swap inside the FD diff with the T2 diff to make it stronger? ring and pinion or some thing else. also what gasket do i use to install the cover back on red high temp silicone?
i don't know much about the differentials so that's why i am asking.
"my spelling and grammar are terrible i hope you guys understand haha"

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

It does swap right in but you will need to re-shim it to set the gear lash correctly. Otherwise you run the risk of gear noise or premature wear. A lot of people just slap it in without taking the time to measure anything or do it right. Sometimes you can get away with it, but I wouldn't take the risk. There really is no stronger ring or pinion but some of my customers chose to go with a 4.33 ratio at the same time for better acceleration. I always like to change the bearings and axle seals. If you mess with the pinion gear, you must change the crush sleave and re-set the entire diff. I've seen a brand new Kaaz destroyed when this wasnt dont right. I use the right stuff sealant on the cover. This is also a good time to press in upgraded diff mount bushings.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

So this is the diff with T2 internals that you just bought? If so, I would absolutely remove the rear cover and check the gear contact pattern to make sure it was assembled properly.

Any good silicone sealant will work that's designed for gearboxes. Permatex ultra grey, ultra black, The Right Stuff, etc.

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

can you guys make assumptions just by looking at the picture. The guy told me he put 3k miles on it with no problem and he did the swap him self.
also Rotary Experiment Seven- can you PM an estimation of hours you would charge me to check this rear end out.I am a little worried now about all the stuff you guys are talking about.

DriftDreamzSS

iTrader: (4)

get some engine assembly lube and squeeze a bead of it across a couple of the gear teeth on the ring gear. Then spin the input shaft untill the teeth you have the the bead of lube goes thru the pinion gear and comes back around to where you can see it. The lube should be smashed down/wiped away right in the center of the teeth and not on the sides. Thats an easy way to do a quick check to see if its shimmed properly, the pinion gear shouldn't be contacting the ring gear anywhere but right in the middle.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

If its apart then an hour labor unless I have to re-shim it. The grease method works ok but there is certain stuff they make for it and you really should check the setup with a dial indicator. Bring it by and I'll check it out. I'll re-seal it properly too. One thing I did notice is the marks on the bearing caps are reversed. They should be in the same plane. Also, do you know if the gentleman that did the swap re-used his existing ring gear? The ring and pinion need to be replaced as a set as they become worn to one another. If he simply swapped in the TII diff with its existing ring gear, it could cause problems. I'm going on vacation for a couple days. I'll be back in the shop Tuesday.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

What you want is called Prussian Blue. It is a blue marking goo that you paint on the teeth. As you turn the gears it will wipe clean at the contact patch. There are pictures of a proper contact patch in the FSM.