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FD3 injector advice

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Old Feb 7, 2026 | 12:08 PM
  #26  
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Brother, I would not recommend tapping them too hard. Are the injectors out of the car? if they are out of the car and you have some time, I recommend sending them off to be tested and cleaned, especially if you know they are not working properly. It could be that they are sticking, but it could also be that there are issues with the circuit as well. I had good luck with boost lab but I also know there are other vendors out there. All in all, it will be about a two week turn around time for me. It took 3 days for the injectors to get there. It took them five days to finish the work (a few sets of injectors were ahead of mine) and it will take about three days to get them back. And it was right at $140 for the inspection, cleaning and flow testing for all four injectors. That price also includes them shipping them back to me. Here is the link in case you want / need it.

https://www.theboostlab.com/
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Old Feb 8, 2026 | 01:44 PM
  #27  
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Injectors

These injectors are out of the car. They have ALREADY been cleaned.
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Old Feb 9, 2026 | 03:56 AM
  #28  
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So put 12v or jumpers from a charging battery on them.
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Old Feb 9, 2026 | 08:06 AM
  #29  
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I would apply more voltage to them and tap them while the voltage is applied. Depending on what you used before, you could have left residue that gummed up and made it stick, especially if its more than just one. You can soak in injector cleaner of some sort too in order to try to break down the gum if that is the case.
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 12:19 PM
  #30  
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Okay, sort of an update, but I have questions. I am putting car back together. I have the injectors back from boost lab (cleaned and flow tested). I replaced the fuel pulsation dampener and the fuel pressure regulator. Yes they were expensive but I did it for peace of mind.

When I jump the fuel pump in the diagnostic box to pressurize the system, the lower intake starts to fill up with fuel. It is a lot of fuel. Not sure what is happening. Anybody had this happen?
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 12:50 PM
  #31  
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This is how my injectors came back from boost lab with replaced orings. I placed them in the fuel rails and hooked all lines up. I have the feed from the pump going to fuel pulsation dampener and the line from the regulator returning to the tank.
This is how my injectors came back from boost lab with replaced orings. I placed them in the fuel rails and hooked all lines up. I have the feed from the pump going to fuel pulsation dampener and the line from the regulator returning to the tank.
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 12:55 PM
  #32  
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[img alt="Here is how it looks assembled. I did replace the orings in the lower intake where the primary and secondary injectors mate in their respective places.
I assume something is not right. Is fuel getting past an oring and just flooding the lower intake? Or when you jump the fuel pump, does the car also inject fuel as well? It is a lot of fuel. "]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7club.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_1208_3380e8b302be38dd96136966a68e2d9484901338. jpeg[/img]
Here is how it looks assembled. I did replace the orings in the lower intake where the primary and secondary injectors mate in their respective places. I assume something is not right. Is fuel getting past an oring and just flooding the lower intake? Or when you jump the fuel pump, does the car also inject fuel as well? It is a lot of fuel.

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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 06:50 AM
  #33  
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I'd suggest using different clamps than those. Buy an Oetiker style crimper and crimps, they'll outlast those and are less prone to leaking.
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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 09:55 AM
  #34  
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It sounds like one or both of the secondary fuel injectors are stuck open. Its been years since I used a stock diagnostic system but from what I recall I believe the pump prime is just the pump and the injectors should not inject anything during the priming operation. I would remove the secondary fuel rail, while keeping it hooked up to the fuel lines and try the test again to verify which/if an injector is releasing fuel during the prime. Be careful with the fuel that is likely to spray out, have a container of some kind around the injectors to catch the fuel.

It could be a rolled o ring as well. If they were not lubricated well enough during install to the rail, they can roll out of their groove and leak. The test above would also work for this. You could verify if it is leaking out of the injector nozzle or from the seals around the injector.

Last edited by Cgotto6; Apr 13, 2026 at 10:19 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Apr 29, 2026 | 06:59 PM
  #35  
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Thank you for these recommendations. I will be able to work on the car this weekend and pull the rails to see what’s up. I am hoping it is just a rolled or pinched o-ring.
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Old May 2, 2026 | 04:29 PM
  #36  
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I took out the fuel rails and the injectors again today.


Everything looked fine, to include the lower Orings where the rails mate in. So I took the injectors out of the rails.

At first I did not see a smoking gun. Then I took off the orings from all the injectors. Once I took them off I could tell that the orings for the bottom of each injector looked like a slightly different size from each other and a little misshapen.



So I replaced all of those with orings I bought from Atkins. Those orings felt a little thicker. I lubed them with a little Idemitsu and put it all back together.



After reinstalling the rails and hooking the lines back up, I left the injectors disconnected (unplugged) and pressurized the system with the diagnostic box to ensure the orings held. Then connected the injectors (plugged them in) and tested again just to ensure all was good before I put everything back together. It holds fine now with no leaks.

it came down to one of two things: 1 — the first set of orings were defective (did not get first set from Atkins) or, 2 — I pinched or rolled them when I assembled it the first time.

it is all good now. Hopefully this helps someone in the future. Thanks for all the advice along the way.
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Old May 3, 2026 | 08:07 PM
  #37  
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Read this whole thread, I find it insane that you've running the base tune on your Power FC since 2004.
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Old May 4, 2026 | 10:02 AM
  #38  
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Nice job on the diagnosis and repair. It is nice when it is a simple cheap fix. It is still frustrating to have to strip it all down again to find the problem.
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