fd twin turbos?
#26
Don't worry be happy...
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yep rebuilt turbos = the suck.
as long as you dont expect them to last longer than two months you are ok. if they last longer then great.
btw installing the turbos is easy. its the vacuum system that is hooked up to them that requires some form of familiarity.
as long as you dont expect them to last longer than two months you are ok. if they last longer then great.
btw installing the turbos is easy. its the vacuum system that is hooked up to them that requires some form of familiarity.
#28
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so since these twins are going to die out on me in the next couple months does anyone know where i can get a decent priced single set up? or anyone have any advise on how i should do this?
#29
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Based on your last couple of posts I'd recommend parking the car and saving money until you can afford to do it right. If you can't afford BNRs, you certainly can't afford a reliable, well-made single kit.
#31
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http://bnrsupercars.com/
go to products, then 3rd gen FD.
Looks like $2100, and he's lowered the price. Used to be $2350 IIRC. killer deal on a set of brand new T28s. If you ever are serious about ordering them, PM me...... my shop has an account with BNR.
go to products, then 3rd gen FD.
Looks like $2100, and he's lowered the price. Used to be $2350 IIRC. killer deal on a set of brand new T28s. If you ever are serious about ordering them, PM me...... my shop has an account with BNR.
#34
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alright so i know you guys said a single turbo set up would probably run me about $4000 to $5000. thats just for the kit right? not including supporting mods? any estimates on how much everything all together would cost? thanks for the help
#35
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$4k-$5 for a single turbo kit is a bit rich. If you're a savy shopper you can piece a kit together or even get well made kit from A-spec for less.
The extra comes into play when you upgrade all other parts the are good ideas to do at the same time...more horsepower means you need more fuel, so you need a larger fuel pump(s), larger injectors, etc. Larger injectors means new fuel rails and an aftermarket FPR. More horsepower also means more heat, so you need to address the cooling system...radiator, hoses, larger intercooler or even a v-mount. The stock clutch will also get weak above 320rwhp, so you need a stronger clutch and pressure plate.
Most essential is tuning, you need some form of engine management (i.e. PowerFC) and a professional tune.
As you can see, parts add up and fast. Do it once and do it right.
The extra comes into play when you upgrade all other parts the are good ideas to do at the same time...more horsepower means you need more fuel, so you need a larger fuel pump(s), larger injectors, etc. Larger injectors means new fuel rails and an aftermarket FPR. More horsepower also means more heat, so you need to address the cooling system...radiator, hoses, larger intercooler or even a v-mount. The stock clutch will also get weak above 320rwhp, so you need a stronger clutch and pressure plate.
Most essential is tuning, you need some form of engine management (i.e. PowerFC) and a professional tune.
As you can see, parts add up and fast. Do it once and do it right.
#36
I would have to say between 5-7k including supporting mods.
Turbo kit 2.5k
ECU 1.5k
Tune 350$
Fuel pump 100-300$
Fuel kit 600$
IC kit 1k
Greddy elbow 100$
Tune up 150$
Map sensor 75$
BOV 100$
Radiator 300$???
Vac lines 50$???
Greddy pulley kit 100$???(remove air pump)
Clutch 400$
Then add labor cost if your not doing this yourself
Turbo kit 2.5k
ECU 1.5k
Tune 350$
Fuel pump 100-300$
Fuel kit 600$
IC kit 1k
Greddy elbow 100$
Tune up 150$
Map sensor 75$
BOV 100$
Radiator 300$???
Vac lines 50$???
Greddy pulley kit 100$???(remove air pump)
Clutch 400$
Then add labor cost if your not doing this yourself
#38
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ok so i just went back over the mod list the guy sent me when i bought the car. here is wat i have as far as the engine goes.
Engine
• Low mileage motor tuned for regular street driving
• 3mm Apex Seals – for better flow and reliability
• Greddy Underdrive Pulley Kit
Turbos & Exhaust Manifold
• Brand new silicone vacuum hoses
• Rebuilt and clipped for lower back-pressure
• Ported wastegate to protect from boost spiking
• Rebuilt Twin Turbos
ECU/Electronics/Gauges
• Power FC w/ Commander – tuned to 15 psi
• Greddy Profec B Type-S – set @ 10psi
• Apexi Turbo Timer
• Defi D-Gauge (Black face w/ amber lighting to match stock gauge faces) – Boost, Water Temp, Oil Pressure – Boost is mounted in an RE-Amemiya steering column pod that retains stock position for easy view and concealability, while the Water Temp and Oil Pressure gauges are mounted in the center speaker location on the dash to retain a clean, non cluttered look
Intake/Exhaust
• M2 Cold Air Box
• Greddy Intake Elbow
• Efini Y-Pipe
• Downpipe
• Bonez Hi-Flow Cat
• HKS S/S Catback
Cooling
• Greddy Side Mount Intercooler
• Mazda Competition Oversized Radiator
• New Samco Silicone Radiator hoses
• Crooked Willow Twin Mocal Oil Coolers / Stainless Steel Lines w/ Thermostat
Ignition
• MSD and Mazda Ignition
Fuel
• Stock fuel pump
• Earl’s Fittings Fuel Pressure Regulator (adjustable boost sensitiv
Engine
• Low mileage motor tuned for regular street driving
• 3mm Apex Seals – for better flow and reliability
• Greddy Underdrive Pulley Kit
Turbos & Exhaust Manifold
• Brand new silicone vacuum hoses
• Rebuilt and clipped for lower back-pressure
• Ported wastegate to protect from boost spiking
• Rebuilt Twin Turbos
ECU/Electronics/Gauges
• Power FC w/ Commander – tuned to 15 psi
• Greddy Profec B Type-S – set @ 10psi
• Apexi Turbo Timer
• Defi D-Gauge (Black face w/ amber lighting to match stock gauge faces) – Boost, Water Temp, Oil Pressure – Boost is mounted in an RE-Amemiya steering column pod that retains stock position for easy view and concealability, while the Water Temp and Oil Pressure gauges are mounted in the center speaker location on the dash to retain a clean, non cluttered look
Intake/Exhaust
• M2 Cold Air Box
• Greddy Intake Elbow
• Efini Y-Pipe
• Downpipe
• Bonez Hi-Flow Cat
• HKS S/S Catback
Cooling
• Greddy Side Mount Intercooler
• Mazda Competition Oversized Radiator
• New Samco Silicone Radiator hoses
• Crooked Willow Twin Mocal Oil Coolers / Stainless Steel Lines w/ Thermostat
Ignition
• MSD and Mazda Ignition
Fuel
• Stock fuel pump
• Earl’s Fittings Fuel Pressure Regulator (adjustable boost sensitiv
Last edited by Youngx7; 12-29-10 at 05:22 AM.
#43
Form follows function
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Based on what you've said, I would not encourage you to go down the single conversion path at this time or you'll likely not be driving your car very much at all. I assert that you're better off replacing the twins (even with the ones you already have), until which time you're better situated to take on a conversion project. Conversions can take even those with abundant resources and considerable experience a long time, and may not produce a result you're happy with.
#44
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are you sure there aren't any carb legal singles? i guess if there isn't anyone have any recommendations on a set of twins? me general goal was to reach 400 to the wheel.
#46
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I recommend you do some research, you've already been given a lot of good advice and it's pretty apparent to me that you've done zero research on your own. The information is out there, use your brain and you'll find the answers. I for one am not going to spoon feed it to you
#47
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^^ lol thx. i found some carb legal singles for the fds. but speed of light said there aren't any carb legal singles. so i was just wondering if the site had it wrong or if there really are carb legal singles.
#48
I am sure there has to be some carb legal turbos out there...
#50
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alright so my dream of saving up for a single set up is slowly dying out. you guys recommended the bnr twins? any idea of how much power those put out? and what other supporting mods i would need? im really considering getting the bnrs unless there is a set of twins that gets more power. thanks for your help guys