From your shoes I'd probably say the same thing watching the videos. But you try jumping to a 650 rwhp 20b and having to completely rework the suspension setup :P. Any its not just the car setup too, I had to relearn how to drive the car to take advantage of the HP.

They charge $550 just for the shaft but I'm not sure if they will give that price just selling the shaft if that is what your asking.

thewird

 

Your result is very encouraging. I was leaning toward t56 conversion until I read your post. I also haven't broken my FD transmission yet with my 20b, but I never launch my car. I somehow thought PPF was part of culprit that twisted the box. I am using FD box with FC tail housing with transmission mounted to the frame instead. I have a spare FD box, I may have to give liberty a call soon!

 

I welded some angle iron at the weak point of the PPF if that could at all possibly make the difference. My diff has solid mounts but no brace.

thewird

 

The latest offering from PPG in Australia. The sequential T56.... 1000hp+ rating. Target price is around $18K as an assembled unit.

T56 Magnum is less than 1/6 the cost.... rated at 700hp.... in a 4500lb car launching on slicks without failure. These have been put in 1000rwhp cars without any real issues. They do weigh 135lbs. If you are interested in either item or rebuild parts/kits please email me. My username at hotmail dot com

 

Why aren't people building an adapter plate to go between the FD bellhousing and the t56 trans? Everything I see has the adapter plate between the engine and a GM or other bellhousing. I'm assuming the input shaft is the wrong length to work with the FD bellhousing??? What is the deal. Thanks for the help.

 

I think Howard was saying you need to machine .25 of an inch off the rear face of the bellhousing to move the input shaft further into the stock pilot bearing. That's on an auto FD bellhousing.

 

"Why aren't people building an adapter plate to go between the FD bellhousing and the t56 trans?"

the FD 5 speed bellhousing positions the starter facing to the rear. the T56 is wider than the stock FD box and interferes. the auto FD bellhousing positions the starter towards the front and solves the problem.

creating another problem... you need an auto rear iron to match up.

howard

 

It looks like the best option is a custom bellhousing that has the bolt patter for the manual rear iron and the auto starter position. Lol.

No problem! ! (Sarcasm)

 

I think the current best option is FD shaft upgrade.

 

Is there a point of contact at Liberty Gear for the shaft upgrade?

 

Never mind, I just saw this post

 

There are drag guys making over 700HP low 9 second 1/4 mile passes on stock FD transmissions and harsh clutches. Just saying.

 

I have 2 Liberty built transmissions, 1 face plated and 1 not. I twisted off 2 input shafts, twisted 2 diffferent cluster gears and just recently stipped the teeth off 3rd gear. Paul is a great guy to work with and has been very helpful. The guys running 9 sec 1/4 miles are not as reliable as I want to be. SKWORLD (Mike) had a Liberty also but is now swapping. I am going to different track events and breaking which is a bummer. I'm now considering a T56 for the reliability.

 

Thanks for the input!

 

If I'm getting this right...only 20B powered cars are have destroyed one of these transmissions so far?

 

No. 2 rotor cars also. It is a factor of torque and abuse (drag racing)

 

The difference is torque and not just hp. At 700hp,13b is gonna make less torque than 20b. That's why the stock tranny fails so much on that particular swap. The higher torque is what's bending the output shaft. Now on 13b applications, I think abuse is the main problem.

 

^ The torque is the same if the RPM is the same. So it is not really different.

 

I think it is quite different. Regardless if the torque is the same at a given RPM at full boost, the way the torque comes on a 20b is drastically different. On a 20b, the torque is going to snap on hard which would stress components more then the same peak torque on a 13b where it takes a bit to get there. The 13b would always be a more gradual transition between power and have more give in the motor for load changes. Apples & oranges imo.

thewird

 

1+ Agreed.

20b has more rotational mass.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using RX7Club

 

What power and torque are seeing Liberty main shaft and 3rd gear failures?

 

Howard, is it so wide that we couldn't cut out a channel in the trans tunnel? If done properly it seems like a better solution over time, easier on upkeep/removal, the parts that tend to be replaced stay stock. If its only 1-2" then its not a big deal, any more than that and it may get dicey.

 

Well said! This is virtually how impact guns work and why they also break bolts.

 

Quicktime bellhousing fitment was complete crap and was a waste of money. Browell Bellhousing fitment was spot on, SFI Approved and they can do anything you can imagine. For instance, I have two inspection holes, the starter pocket in the same position as the auto and have an upgraded Tilton starter, Tilton carbon clutch and Xtreme Rotaries flywheel. I can upload pictures tonight when I get home if need be.

 

I would realy like to see those pictures! I would like to see a working simple solution. I know Howard C and ironmdx and bewtew have a t56 in their car but the installations don't seem similar. Some of them have custom plates made for the mating of the tranny and the engine (I could be wrong) Is your Trany mated to a 20B or 13B? Sorry I don't know your setup. Is the location of the engine stock( if your setup is 20B)

Thank you!
Andrew