Great post howard, love the detail, i will definately be attempting this mod to my FD

"There has to be a way to cast a bell housing that uses the stock manual setup from an FD and mates to a T-56 with a custom Mazda splined tranny input shaft."

there really seems to be confusion on this...


one more time.

the normal manual rear facing starter can not clear the greater width of the T56 case.

either:

the starter must be relocated forward which the auto trans setup does

or

the trans must be spaced backward 4.5 inches to clear the starter and hydraulic clutch servo (longer input shaft... Liberty Gear will make for under $300. the tunnel gets too small to the rear and the shifter is a bit rearward but it can work and has been done))

or

space the manual starter further out from the flywheel using some other gear w a larger diameter.

those are the options

have fun.

hc

I was trying to research this. The one's mated with the LS1 engines are said to be of bad quality and so only 5-spd are readily available. So I assumed (I know ass+me) a 6-pd box would be larger then a 5-spd box and I don't know which one you tested. :ponder:

This sounded like something to do while rebuilding but i'm over my head with this. :dunce: It would be nice to move up to a 6-spd when replacing the trans. It sounded like this would be cheaper in the long run then swapping it later when the engine is in, especially if I break gears and/or synchro's, but this is more then a brand new JDM FD trans swap price wise. This one looks sweet though http://www.ddperformance.com/magnum.html
http://www.ddperformance.com/images/Magnum1.jpg

If I was building a 3 rotor, this is what I'd want backing it up....along with upgraded differential, axles, pp frame, addition of a roll bar, etc....the list goes on

Contrary to what banzai thinks, chassis and powertrain components do fail on these cars right and left above 500 rwhp...unless you drive like a geek

I stopped at West Coast Corvette's and noticed the 2003 was a 6-spd. Howard is the T56 you are using a 6-Spd? I saw this sweet shifter and thought i'd post a pic.


Oh and here is my original dream car I wanted to restore ever since I was a kid in my sisters b/f's modified Mustang fast back and we raced a L88 and it blew us away. I've even thought of finding a 69 roller and transferring the suspension and engine over and having a legal fully modified 13B Stingray. Then i'd race me some RX-7 V8's Buawahahaa! :egrin:

6 speed. with a neat Hurst shifter ball and a Lou's Short Stick:).... a perfect fit and if NASCAR wasn't running at Road America starting tomorrow (first time in 50 years) it would probably be in my car along w the motor by sunday.

next week.

as to other cars, my lead footed wife has always wanted a Cobra. every now and then i think i might build her a Force Five cobra w a 500 rwhp 13B.

except i would have to get into the suspension to really make it handle like the FD. maybe just graft an FD suspension on it.

by the time i got through it would be an FD w a Cobra body.

she would be in jail real fast.

hmmmmmm

hc

Plus about....oh, 800 pounds or so :)

How do I contact Samberg about the subframe? The v8rx7forum doesnt work

I found a Samberg Rod and Custom???

Search for no rotors, it's the new v8rx7forum site. He's on there

Howard, if I can ask again?

How is the clutch mounted to the auto flex plate? I would love to do this swap.

If one was to start with an auto FD, how much easier would it be to put in a T56? I'm looking to convert mine into a manual and a 6-speed would be nice.

After leaving 4 messages with Geoff I finally was able to get him to answer the phone. Clutch is $12xx, flywheel is $2xx, and the release bearing is $3xx for a total over $1800. He said you have to send in your flex plate in order for them to make the clutch.

I wonder if we can get the price down??? I suggest working with someone other than Geoff. He doesnt call people back.

try Jeff Neal at QM. i met him at Road America 2 weeks ago at the NASCAR race.
847-540-8999 X370. tell him Howard suggested you call.

the clutch i thought was around 8XX retail, the button about 180, release bearing (very neat) is 3XX.

hc

i will call back and see if i can get the price down....as of right now the spec is cheaper by $150. if i can get the prices you suggested above i would order yesterday

I placed my order today with Dave at extension 310. Very nice guy and tons of help.

warning:

don't go to the link in post 66 unless you have more than an hour and are confident you won't shoot yourself from envy.

but it still needs a CPR rotary...

hc

Lets be honest Howard, there's really no better way to spend an hour of your life... ;) haha Pics really don't do their work justice....the alum bodies are still made in Poland and shipped over, they're by far the nicest reproduction/kit car Cobra bodies(and everything else actually) I've ever seen...and I've seen a lot of them. lol Everything else they make in Utah in their new(giant) facility. They rent Miller motor sports park every year for their customers to go out and play, so if you put a rotary in one, please tell me before you go, Id like to take a picture of the Kirkham's brothers faces when you start it. ;)
(anyways, back on topic....lol)

-Kyle


(Edit:Oh and they're comming out with Daytona Coupe Bodies soon, they have the molds for a GT40 Mk1 too but they felt there are too many people already making those.)

off topic, but here's the awarded best built replica cobras in the world, built in South Africa! A friend of my Dad's. Tony Martin, won the Indy500 once with Jodi Shektor, Maybe you've heard of him, Howard?

I was reading this thread for the T56 talk, so im not just trollin', i've just finished my V8 convers. with T56 box. Cant wait to drive it, got my T56 out a '96 camaro, and a B&M short throw shifter. Got me thinking about these ratios now...

oh wait, here's the link.......
http://backdraftracing.co.za/

I'll be selling my driveshaft and torque arm soon from my conversion.
I'm in the middle of getting my 8.8 conversion put together.

snapped a few pics... nothing amazing here but am close to rolling down the road..

http://a.imageshack.us/img152/3848/009lf.jpg
i just had to have a Hurst shifter. that is a GTO transmission shifter assembly bolted onto the top of my 99 F body (Camaro) trans. F body has the best ratios for road racing. hat optional. my daughter is a professional antique book restorer and works alot w leather. she is making me a custom leather shifter boot. oh, i am running a Lou's Short Stick (google it). it is a bit shorter and has a better angle. seems perfect. i also did not have to touch the stock hole in the tunnel. sharp eyes will note the sandwich plate for my rear trans brace.

http://a.imageshack.us/img152/8021/010ap.jpg
Beyond Redline really tuned up my exhaust system to fit the Samberg rear diff subframe and around the trans while keeping it pretty straight..

http://a.imageshack.us/img832/1198/011cqx.jpg
here's how they dealt w the missing exhaust mount that attached to the missing PPF

http://a.imageshack.us/img134/3101/013jv.jpg
close up

http://a.imageshack.us/img836/9683/014cu.jpg
the main event. i modded the stock tunnel brace and added a bracket so i can run the stock Mazda pan under the trans. i am really big on nothing hanging down under the car..

http://a.imageshack.us/img134/5194/015fg.jpg
bellhousing, thank you Mazda, and IronMdnX

http://a.imageshack.us/img134/2605/016nr.jpg
the auto starter is slick and does not get in the way of anything

hopefully it will work:)

soon

hc

Looks great Howard.

looks legit!

Transmission pics in post #72 look sweet.

I do have a question though, I have an auto FD and want to do this swap. I also want to run a Power FC. So, once I swap transmissions and go to install the PFC do I have to buy an adapter harness for it, or is the plug/pin configuration for both auto and manual ecus the same? I ask this, because I thought reading the whole point auto FD adapter was to retain the auto ecu's transmission control features. Which in the case of this swap is totally unnecessary (unless of course the plug is different as stated above). Thats it, I hope it wasn't to confusingly worded.

but the trans can be shaved on the side like this one to use the manual starter, i know it has a lakewook bellhousing but the flywheel is the same dimensions as a 93 so it is posible with some grinding to make it fit. And just use a hydo throwout bearing if the stock throw out doesnt fit in location case of the oversized trans now.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...9&d=1285088990

just a brief initial update:

it works!

at least on jackstands. i may get it actually on the road today.

BTW, the above post is interesting... if you can shave the case so as to mount the starter in the stock location and can come up w the bellhousing that would be a legit alternative to the auto bellhousing/adapter setup i have.

hc

Howard, are the adapter plates available yet?

Is the the auto bellhousing bolt pattern different from the manual bell housing? If its the same it would be the best alternative for alot of people.

same.

i have an adapter on the backend of the bellhousing that mounts the T56

+1 ?

t56, hehe!

you get this on the road yet Howard?

he did
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/separating-fiction-reality-couple-days-dyno-903611/page9/

So did we ever come up with a solution to get around an auto rear iron? I thought someone mention grinding something on the tranny....any more info on this?

How about these?
 

anyone used one of these?

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1290203526

Interesting.....

$1,245 NZD !

http://greenbrothers.co.nz/Products.html

I have an auto bellhousing and starter for sale. If someone interest, send me a pm

Eric

Thanks for sharing Howard! I have an auto FD and going this route inspires me. I agree that someone should market a kit that includes everything needed for handling 500+ H.P.

i have 1000 miles on my T56 setup and am happy to report it works perfectly. FWIW i am really liking the trans swap. love the clutch.

the adapter is available and can ship within a week approx.

it does not have locating pins so you need to indicate CL using a magnetic dial indicator that you position on the input shaft. it is a fun 30 minute process and is easy to do.

the adapter is mild steel, has lots of tapped bolt holes and is 3/8 thick to increase input shaft penetration into the pilot bearing. (you also should machine a quarter inch of the back of the bellhousing for the same reason.)


$300 plus shipping.

email me if int'd.

howard

I have a T56 from an Fbody (LS1) if anyone else is doing this conversation. Freshly rebuilt, zero miles, steel 3/4 shift fork, new bearings, new seals, carbon blocker rings, bronze fork pads, billet keys (all the upgrades). This is typically rated at 700hp+ in a 3500lb Fbody. We are running one of these in a 950rwhp+ turbo LS3 powered RX-7 without issues.

Best way to reach me is email. gnx7@hotmail.com

just something for people who are planning on putting a t56 in their car with the rotary to consider. with the prices of ls1 powered cars continuing to fall, it might be a better option to purchase one and part it out and just keep the transmission for yourself. I see shells sell by themselves for 1200-1500 and that's with quite a few miscellaneous parts missing. You could even buy a totalled or non-running one (provided its not tranny problems) for dirt cheap and part it out

This is a pretty impressive trans swap. Ive been considering replacing the 3rd gen trans Im running in my FC with a T56 and this thread clearly highlights some challenges and options. Nice work.

I think this is what you guys are looking for. Just bought one myself. Part#RM-4091

http://www.blueovalperformance.net/p...4eaf9054b703c4

Ok after staying up all night. I think i just figured out how to do this swap in my 1rst gen drag car. With that bellhousing you dont have to change the rear iron, starter ,or make any adapter plate. Now this is what im trying to do, I hope everything works. If im right i can use my stock flywheel and ACT pressure plate since i am running a FC clutch and transmission. Then i searched and searched and found this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACL-SI240U/
I am not a fan of 4 puck clutches. I would never put one in my FD, but this is my drag car so its not gonna be an issue. So theoretically if you were to do this in a FD all you would need is a t56, the quicktime bellhousing $572 , http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACL-MZ010XX/ $354.58, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACL-SI240U/ $352.28. So for under $1300 you can bolt a t56 to a rotary without having to pull apart a perfectly good engine. Having a SFI approved scatter shield, and a clutch that can take whatever you can throw at it. Im gonna give it a try, i will let you guys know how it works out.

Any update with this?

Conversion underway using RM 4091 and a TR6060 tremac.
 

Hi guys currently attempting this conversion with a quicktime bell(RM 4091) and a TR6060(new model T56) in my 500rwhp FD. Having issues with the FD flywheel fitting in the bell, looks like the bell is for a early model 13B. Not getting much help from my supplier in OZ. Have worked out that the ring gear that would fit is off a early 13b but then we have the issue of the S6 auto starter not engaging ring gear. Some pics attached. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Once fitted up I will do a full report as there are many little problems that have occurred along the way during conversion.

Just an update on my conversion ^^^^^^
After many attempts with the bell quicktime sent, they have finally come to the conclusion that it is a casting error and the bell is incorrectly sized as they have changed thickness in metals. No wonder the starter was 10mm or so from engaging with flywheel. Anyway a new one should be on the way shortly to Australia.

More info on the GTO linkage assembly would be great.