Yes, if there is any new info on the installation that 1 bigfella was doing or REDBULLSTX was propossing I will be really interestad as I am in the process of swapping my transmission and having to choose between the T5 or T56 ones.
Thanks...
Leo

I called quicktime a while back after gforce told me thats the supplier they use. I was about to order one. Glad you found this out. Keep us updated on your progress.

update on my T56:

there has always been a question of whether it shifts at high rpm.

i have a garden variety T56 from the boneyard.... F body w 60,000 miles... i recently ran it at the Texas Mile.

shifted absolutely fine thru 5 gears at 8800.

howard

Came across this on jegs. QuickTime bellhousing adapter. May be worth a look.

Quick Time Bellhousing RM-4091 Quick Time Mazda Engine Adapter Bellhousings - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Have they (QuickTime) sorted out their issues with the Belhousing?
Has QuickTime or anyone figured out what starter, Flywheel, etc. to use?

How about the "feel" though.

Every T56 I've ever driven feels like a truck. Is there a short shifter/mechanism that make the action feel better, and the arm/knob smaller?

By comparison (of high HP transmissions), the Supra Getrag feels awesome—if you could get the right ratios for it, that would be a worthy conversion to me.

"By comparison (of high HP transmissions), the Supra Getrag feels awesome"
They do fell pretty dam good and subjectively may take more abuse. Too bad there not as plentiful as the T56

I believe GForce has or is working on a adapter plate for the T56, you will have to use T2 starter.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/G-For...58348597542088

Tremac gearbox conversion
Pick the tremac box (Based on the T56) that obviously suits your needs and budget. To get any tremac box to fit closely to the FD tunnel hole, the F body(rear half of box) will need changing to suit. I went with a brand new Mal Wood Auto( http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/ ) TR6060 gbox because of gear ratios and cost. This box is used in the late model FG xr6 turbo and v8 falcon's. He also supplied me with a quicktime bell (RM 4091). Long story short this was the major sticking point as it didn't fit, with the starter not engaging into the flywheel. 13b's have only 2 flywheels options, it was supposed be a turbo flywheel with a auto starter motor. Anyway after a 2nd one was sent from the US, Maztech ended up cutting and lowering the starter mounting platform to get the teeth to engage. A 1" wilwood clutch master was also upgraded to suit the tilton push/pull hydraulic conversion used as well. A spigot bearing had to be turned down to fit as well. A new twin plate DCS clutch and flywheel was sourced from Drew ( Clutches - International supplier clutch kits, clutch parts, clutch plates, clutch cylinder ). Due to the removal of PPF I sourced a Justin Samberg V8 conversion type diff cradle and gbox mt. ( http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=126.0 ) The gbox mt was heavily modified to adapt. Tailshaft was measured up and a new 31 spline yoke fitted with uni joints. Another major sticking point was the gbox hitting the tunnel, so I had it heavily modded to suit from the guys that build tunnels for drag car setups. (Mcdonald Bros) This allowed the box to be removed in 1 piece rather than in 2. I have probably missed a few things but thats the basis to it all. Was very happy with its outing at Winton a few weeks back, box stayed together with around 500rwhp and had no issue changing smoothly/quickly. Ratio's I found suited that particular track, even though I only used 2 to 4th. Phillip Island or EC will be the only track that might see the 6th gear. Definitely was not the cheap option to go with, but so far , so good.

Jase

Full link with pics here
 

1bigfella, that website requires a login to see the page you linked...

Doesn't seem like any option is a straight forward option. What is the budget on something like this?

"Another major sticking point was the gbox hitting the tunnel,"

wow, maybe because you are installing a Tremac versus my Tremec. i had no tunnel problems. further, i wouldn't touch the tunnel as it is the backbone of the chassis.

i looked at the Getrag option but as i recall they offered only a 1 to 1 top gear. my F body delivers ideal close ratios.

as to shift feel... i have a Lou's short shift stick and love the precise feel of the box. i am using a GTO shift mechanism to relocate the shifter to the center of the OE hole. i do realize that the stock box is lotus-like and that's cool... it just didn't quite fit my needs.

given all of the sagas re the T56 conversion i consider my setup using a Mazda bellhousing/starter/auto iron/adapter plate/samberg/quartermaster a simple deal.

love it.

howard

Stock gearbox with an upgraded mainshaft with internal treatments from Liberty Gears is an affordable option that works. Haven't been able to break it yet circuit racing with 650 rwhp and 500 ft/lbs of torque on my 20b with 335 Hoosier slicks.

thewird

The T-56 Magnum is more stout a d has triple synchros for a slick shift. The TR6060 is also a much better trans particularly with shift feel.

My T-56 isn't too bad but it def doesn't shift as quick as the stock FD box.

The pro 5.0 shifter with the steeda Tri-ax handle puts the T-56 shift locations perfectly where the FD trans was.

The shifting is very positive but like it was stated it is somewhat truck like but not really.

What was the cost for them to upgrade it?

Cost me $1350 all-in with a good core. Actually gave them 2 transmissions and they took the best parts from both. Paul is the guy to talk to. They can also convert the gearbox to a full dog box but thats a lot more.

thewird

That's an absolute bargain. I'm going to buy another box and have it sent there to be upgraded.

I'm on a 13b so no where near as much torque, do you think it will put up with the abuse of drag launches?

:icon_tup::nod::icon_tup:

That's great to hear. Now, if they could just turn it into a 6-speed...

Why do you need a 6th gear? Alter the ratios with the diff if you want shorter or longer gearing per gear

Well, I've got a stock 4:1, and a short 5th. Wouldn't want them any higher for track use. Would maybe want them lower (like the equivalent of a 4:3), but then the 5th would be too short for street/highway use. It already is, actually. I certainly wouldn't want more space between the same number of gears.

The car really just needs a 6-speed.

Ah I see. Yeh a 6th is definately needed then. HCs alternative is probably the best option for you then but that's an expensive alternative to gain a 6th gear

I've been running one for about two years, also with good results. Liberty's is less than an hour away, so I spent a lot of time talking to Paul in person about all the options. He took the time to explain everything and show me samples. One upgrade I opted for is housing treatment. Not sure how much it helps, but cracking of the aluminum is one of the failure modes and the treatment doesn't cost much.

They took a little longer than they estimated, so plan accordingly. But the work was first rate. I saw the internals before reassembly. It honestly looked like one of the cutaways you see at an autoshow -- the gears were all polished to a mirror finish as one of the steps in the treatment process. They even media-blasted the housing, making it look brand new.

I don't see why it wouldn't take drag launches just the same. I personally believe the weakness in the FD gearbox has nothing to do with the gears themselves but is actually the mainshaft flexing causing stress on the teeth from the movement. The guy who recommended the box to me originally drag races his 20b with more power then I have without issue.

thewird

Yep I agree

All I need is the upgraded main shaft

Marco, what was the cost for the trans upgrade you did?

thewird, what would it cost to get an upgraded main shaft and dog rings?


a good friend of mine had a ls1 T56 that was modded only with dog rings, and no other upgrades.

i just want the dog rings, but i guess i wouldn't go through and not upgrade the main shaft. i definitely do not want the straight cut gears though. just dog rings.

Cost me $1350 with apparently a perfect core that I gave them. I also asked Paul not to bother sandblasting it to make it cheaper. So that price was just the mainshaft, all their treatments on the internals, and the labor to rebuild the box.

I think I was quoted for around $2500 to get "the works" which was the additional faceplating of the gears to make it syncroless. At the time I was on a limited budget so I didn't get this option as I was on an extreme limited budget trying to spend the least amount possible to get the car to stop grenading transmissions after 3-5 laps at full power. I wish I had though.

thewird

What is he best way too contact them? And who is best too contact about the upgrade?

Step 1: Call Liberty Gears
Step 2: "Hi, can I please speak with Paul?"
Step 3: "Hi Paul, I'm interested in rebuilding my transmission and would like to talk details"
Step 4: Profit

Paul is the only person to talk to about the upgrade.

thewird

International calls are expensive. I'm in the uk.... But yeh a phone call is best. Thanks.

Skype is your friend.

thewird

I've run and driven many rebuilt '93-02 style Fbody LS1 T56's as well as the '04-06 GTO T56's and never really was impressed with how smooth they shift. The GTO units shift better; however I don't like their gear ratios.

I took the rebuilt Fbody T56 out of my car which I rebuilt as it was one item I felt I overlooked on finding my idea of perfection with my project..... then installed a new T56 Magnum which I sell into it. For me it was a direct fit with the trans mount needing no changes nor my exhaust. (I run an LS7).

The only changes needed to be made were to shorten the driveshaft and install a 31 spline yoke on it (I run Spicer 1350 Ujoints and a Cobra 8.8" IRS rear). It also requires a new shifter to properly position the shift handle (there are options to place it fore/aft +/- 4 inches in 1/2" increments. I run the McLeod unit with a 4" setback. The T56 Magnum is just under 2" longer than the older styles and dimensionally the same on the exterior for the most part. There is no provision for a torque arm/PPF mount anymore.

The shifting smoothness is no comparison to the older units and is awesome. The ratios are the same as the older T56; however 5th gear is now .80 ratio vs. the older .75 so you stay in your powerband better. 6th gear is .63 vs. .50 so you probably lose 1-2mpg.... no biggie.

The lighter your clutch/flywheel combo the easier of a time you will have shifting any transmission at higher RPM's. Flogging mine hard it shifts at 7400rpm without issues.
I run a 7/8" clutch MC on my setup. Routinely bleeding the clutch MC reservoir due to clutch dust contamination should be done. After 2-3K miles mine was black and glittery. Unusual... but it is a problem with this type of hydraulic slave.

Hey gnx7, I have one of the 98-02 fbody trans and making it fit on my rotary. I usually shift at about 8k rpm. You think mine will be ok. I actually want to upgrade to a tr6060. Come from the 09+ corvettes or 2010 camaros. What do you think about them.

The '08+ TR6060 from the Z06 is a transaxle (rear mounted) so that won't work.

The 2010+ Camaro TR6060 has funky gear ratios for a heavy car. Don't like them. They also use a 3 finger flange on the output shaft requiring a funky driveshaft/adapter piece to be used (added cost). The front bellhousing is incorporated into the front bearing plate too meaning you need a custom setup to run a traditional front bearing plate that will accept a bolt on bellhousing to adapt it to a rotary etc.

I like the new T56 Magnums (TR6060) with Fbody gear ratios (come stock with them). They suit a lighter car better with good splits thru the gears. 5th gear is .80 also keeping you better in your powerband.

I ended up going with the liberty option with the straight cut dogbox and different rqtios to suit my track needs.. after a long wait I should have it by next week.. will share thoughts soon if you guys want to

"I have one of the 98-02 f body trans..."

so do i. 99 out of a boneyard. GTO shift mechanism. 4 years in my car.

'I usually shift at about 8k rpm."

i have no problems w the trans shifting at 9000 and love the close ratio gears..

howard

You're from wisconsin?! Where abouts?

The Liberty option has been getting good reviews lately. In what scenario do you forsee the T56 having an advatage over the beefy Liberty box?

Its a budget game. Spend $1350 getting the stock one built and it bolts right in or spend $6000+ putting a T56 in and get another gear. Thats what the choice comes down to. No 13b is gonna break a Liberty built box so neither is better then the other other then gear ratios. My 20b with crazy torque can't even break it with 335 Hoosier slicks beating it on the track. Not to mention the T56 adds weight also.

thewird

No 13b you say?
You can still break the liberty, still 20yr old metal, no matter what enhancements you do to it An incredible trans none the less, but you get what you pay for it's not as strong as a t56, but for your average Fd owner a great choice

Did you have the upgraded mainshaft? That is the key to the Liberty box, not the treatments. The shaft is the weakness. I just can't see an engine with less torque breaking it unless your trying to power shift or something which doing on a mazda box is silly.

thewird

Nope, factory shaft, went 9.34 on that box
Went 9.23 on a junkyard syncro box, shock load is the main killer, case flex next
Stripping the teeth off 3rd gear, well I've heard "that shouldn't have happend" atleast 5 times lol, happened on the dyno on a boost ramp pull, well I'm getting it repaired, see how long that one lasts...

3rd gear is the first thing to let go, it goes because its in the middle and the MAINSHAFT flexes which separates the gears and stresses the teeth. I broke 2 transmissions with my 13b and 4 transmissions (this year) with the 20b. Every time it broke it was 3rd gear. The Liberty Box hasn't broken in 2 track days with more power from the extra timing, stickier tires, and cold weather.

Stock gearbox, 5 degrees retarded timing, early in the season and I still wasn't used to the power and car wasn't setup well... gets "interesting" at 6 minutes when I let the Mclaren by intentionally lol

Liberty box and full power...

Start at 7 minutes...

I'm a scary cat in the next 2 videos, not used to that kind of speed at all. 162 mph down the UPHILL straightaway...
Porches? No Problem!

Viper Race cars? No Problem!

thewird

Haven't ever heard someone presenting shaft flex as the reason for faliure of 3rd, but it's plausable , as I've seen eshaft flex moretimes than most. However I know 3 other guys who stripped 3rd and all had the "upgraded" shaft

Interesting. Guess I'll update if I ever manage to break it. I'm planning to kick up the HP to 800 rwhp and whatever torque that brings next year with a semi-pp.

thewird

No doubt your car is fast. Now try hitting those apexes consistently. :)

160+ mph and no rollcage...I would shit myself too haha. Great car, I look forward to seeing more vids.

What is the upgraded rx7 mainshaft worth ?