FD times for 0 - 60?
FD times for 0 - 60?
Folks... I searched in our 3rd gen forum, and the time slips and dyno section, but no luck. I was just wondering if you all could inform me (us) what your best 0-60mph times are, especially those who have it heavily modded. How much did you improve over stock? I've seen anywhere from 4.9-5.3 for stock times. I've never really timed mine, but would probably want to go to a track sometime just to see...
Trying to time it yourself is almost surely a waste of time. You need a pretty good timing/speed setup to do it properly. It's better to compare 60', 1/8mi, and 1/4mi times, IMO, since those are accurate measurements that ordinary folks can check.
Dave
Dave
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Trying to time it yourself is almost surely a waste of time. You need a pretty good timing/speed setup to do it properly. It's better to compare 60', 1/8mi, and 1/4mi times, IMO, since those are accurate measurements that ordinary folks can check.
Dave
Dave
I just have a downpipe and Apexi intakes. From what i can measure with my stopwatch I am getting 0-60 around 6 seconds. I have to say I'm a little dissapointed since it only has 1200 miles on the reman. I don't have a boost gauge yet so I can't really tell what's going on with the turbos. It's still good fun though.
Sell the stopwatch and use it to buy a boost gauge :o)
The reason why stopwatch timing isn't even close is simple: the common method of measuring 0-60 involves starting the timer the moment the car begins forward movement, unlike the tree at a drag race. It also stops timing the moment the car acheives 60mph. Both of these variables are hard to get correct with a hand timer, and if you want to have a chance of it, you need a helper to watch the speedo and do it. Even still, timing a 6 second event consistently is not possible - I've done enough hand timing of the 55m at track meets to confirm that you're lucky to consistently stay within .2s of the same time, and there you have very clear and instant reference points (smoke from gun, runner crossing the line). A sweeping speedo needle that's not directly in front of you is hard to read, as is judging the precise moment you start moving.
To do it the way the magazines do it, you need a radar gun pointed at the car and an integrated electronic timer.
As for the calculations, it only takes complete 0-60, 1/8mi, 1/4mi, and trap speeds for several cars to create a curve fit that will estimate the 0-60, given the other inputs. If I had the data on hand, I'd do it in Excel for you since it's an interesting exercise.
Dave
The reason why stopwatch timing isn't even close is simple: the common method of measuring 0-60 involves starting the timer the moment the car begins forward movement, unlike the tree at a drag race. It also stops timing the moment the car acheives 60mph. Both of these variables are hard to get correct with a hand timer, and if you want to have a chance of it, you need a helper to watch the speedo and do it. Even still, timing a 6 second event consistently is not possible - I've done enough hand timing of the 55m at track meets to confirm that you're lucky to consistently stay within .2s of the same time, and there you have very clear and instant reference points (smoke from gun, runner crossing the line). A sweeping speedo needle that's not directly in front of you is hard to read, as is judging the precise moment you start moving.
To do it the way the magazines do it, you need a radar gun pointed at the car and an integrated electronic timer.
As for the calculations, it only takes complete 0-60, 1/8mi, 1/4mi, and trap speeds for several cars to create a curve fit that will estimate the 0-60, given the other inputs. If I had the data on hand, I'd do it in Excel for you since it's an interesting exercise.
Dave
Yes. Boost gauge and AST are high priority. New Escort detector was slightly higher though. This is my high class stop watch. Timex. If I get really excited the horn beeps when I hit the buttons, but that's probably more than you wanted to know. At least I don't have to take my hand off the wheel!
Last edited by mibad; Sep 9, 2005 at 04:36 PM.
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LOL @ the stopwatch
at least get a gtech competition meter..its more accurate than a stopwatch thats for sure..or you can go to the track and get real times although you wont know your 0-60..you can only guess your 0-60 by 1/4 time..
at least get a gtech competition meter..its more accurate than a stopwatch thats for sure..or you can go to the track and get real times although you wont know your 0-60..you can only guess your 0-60 by 1/4 time..
Originally Posted by ulost2my7
LOL @ the stopwatch
at least get a gtech competition meter....
at least get a gtech competition meter....
I bought a Gtech accelerometer for 35 quid and suprisingly it seems very accurate.
Just plug it into the cigarette lighter and a suction cup holds it to the windscreen, so you can use it easy between vehicles.
It measures 0-60, standing 1/4, BHP, stopping distance, G force. ( I've never heard of timing 60ft runs before I saw it here, never seen it in UK).
Anyway, my R1 with induction and cat back (before I fitted mid pipe) gave me a best reading of 0-60 in 5.7 sec. 1/4 in 14.3 @ 100.
It should be alot lower now since I fitted a mid pipe last week but haven't tested it again yet. Certainly feels way quicker to drive.
Point to note is I found the launch made a big difference to the time. An average low RPM launch gave about 6.2sec 0-60, so to get down to 5.2 you need a damn good technique, sort of 5K rpm and a good clutch lol.
Just plug it into the cigarette lighter and a suction cup holds it to the windscreen, so you can use it easy between vehicles.
It measures 0-60, standing 1/4, BHP, stopping distance, G force. ( I've never heard of timing 60ft runs before I saw it here, never seen it in UK).
Anyway, my R1 with induction and cat back (before I fitted mid pipe) gave me a best reading of 0-60 in 5.7 sec. 1/4 in 14.3 @ 100.
It should be alot lower now since I fitted a mid pipe last week but haven't tested it again yet. Certainly feels way quicker to drive.
Point to note is I found the launch made a big difference to the time. An average low RPM launch gave about 6.2sec 0-60, so to get down to 5.2 you need a damn good technique, sort of 5K rpm and a good clutch lol.
Originally Posted by Trevrxuk
I bought a Gtech accelerometer for 35 quid and suprisingly it seems very accurate.
Just plug it into the cigarette lighter and a suction cup holds it to the windscreen, so you can use it easy between vehicles.
It measures 0-60, standing 1/4, BHP, stopping distance, G force. ( I've never heard of timing 60ft runs before I saw it here, never seen it in UK).
Anyway, my R1 with induction and cat back (before I fitted mid pipe) gave me a best reading of 0-60 in 5.7 sec. 1/4 in 14.3 @ 100.
It should be alot lower now since I fitted a mid pipe last week but haven't tested it again yet. Certainly feels way quicker to drive.
Point to note is I found the launch made a big difference to the time. An average low RPM launch gave about 6.2sec 0-60, so to get down to 5.2 you need a damn good technique, sort of 5K rpm and a good clutch lol.
Just plug it into the cigarette lighter and a suction cup holds it to the windscreen, so you can use it easy between vehicles.
It measures 0-60, standing 1/4, BHP, stopping distance, G force. ( I've never heard of timing 60ft runs before I saw it here, never seen it in UK).
Anyway, my R1 with induction and cat back (before I fitted mid pipe) gave me a best reading of 0-60 in 5.7 sec. 1/4 in 14.3 @ 100.
It should be alot lower now since I fitted a mid pipe last week but haven't tested it again yet. Certainly feels way quicker to drive.
Point to note is I found the launch made a big difference to the time. An average low RPM launch gave about 6.2sec 0-60, so to get down to 5.2 you need a damn good technique, sort of 5K rpm and a good clutch lol.
Let us know what numbers you get with your next bolt on...
this is what i got from http://www.albeedigital.com/supercou...0-60times.html
model 0-60 1/4 mile
1971 Mazda RX-2 Coupe 10.0 17.6
1972 Mazda RX-3 Wagon 11.1 18.1
1974 Mazda RX-4 Coupe 9.4 16.5
1974 Mazda RX-4 Wagon 9.7 17.0
1976 Mazda RX-4 Wagon 14.3 19.5
1979 Mazda RX-7 GS 9.2 17.0
1982 Mazda RX-7 GSL 9.7 N/A
1983 Mazda RX-7 GS 9.5 17.0
1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 7.8 15.9
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSL 9.9 17.4
1986 Mazda RX-7 GXL 8.5 16.5
1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo 6.6 15.2
1988 Mazda RX-7 Conv. 9.7 17.5
1989 Mazda RX-7 GTU 8.5 16.5
1989 Mazda RX-7 Turbo 6.7 15.1
1990 Mazda RX-7 GTU 8.6 16.7
1990 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II 6.3 14.9
1991 Mazda RX-7 Conv. 8.8 16.7
1991 Mazda RX-7 Infini IV 7.0 14.9
1993 Mazda RX-7 5.5 14.0
1993 Mazda RX-7 R1 5.3 13.9
1994 Mazda RX-7 5.3 14.0
1994 Mazda RX-7 Touring 6.0 14.5 (auto)
1995 Mazda RX-7 R2 5.0 14.0
2004 Mazda RX-8 5.8 14.49 (6 speed) (MT Mar '04)
model 0-60 1/4 mile
1971 Mazda RX-2 Coupe 10.0 17.6
1972 Mazda RX-3 Wagon 11.1 18.1
1974 Mazda RX-4 Coupe 9.4 16.5
1974 Mazda RX-4 Wagon 9.7 17.0
1976 Mazda RX-4 Wagon 14.3 19.5
1979 Mazda RX-7 GS 9.2 17.0
1982 Mazda RX-7 GSL 9.7 N/A
1983 Mazda RX-7 GS 9.5 17.0
1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 7.8 15.9
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSL 9.9 17.4
1986 Mazda RX-7 GXL 8.5 16.5
1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo 6.6 15.2
1988 Mazda RX-7 Conv. 9.7 17.5
1989 Mazda RX-7 GTU 8.5 16.5
1989 Mazda RX-7 Turbo 6.7 15.1
1990 Mazda RX-7 GTU 8.6 16.7
1990 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II 6.3 14.9
1991 Mazda RX-7 Conv. 8.8 16.7
1991 Mazda RX-7 Infini IV 7.0 14.9
1993 Mazda RX-7 5.5 14.0
1993 Mazda RX-7 R1 5.3 13.9
1994 Mazda RX-7 5.3 14.0
1994 Mazda RX-7 Touring 6.0 14.5 (auto)
1995 Mazda RX-7 R2 5.0 14.0
2004 Mazda RX-8 5.8 14.49 (6 speed) (MT Mar '04)
I can hang with my co-workers 05' vette with a really good launch so I would say in the mid 4 sec range. That's with stock tire size and Goodyear F1's. He been drag racing for 20+ year and at the strip has run a 12.4. We've done it a few times and I lack his consistancy but with a good start we are door to door by the time I hit second. That with a fair amount of wheel spin if slip clutch he blow my doors off. The bitch is he doesn't have to shift until after 60.
corvettes rock wheather they are fast or not
you'll never be able to match the 60 foot of a vette in a rx-7 there's many many guys running 1.4 60 foot times on et streets all motor
you'll never be able to match the 60 foot of a vette in a rx-7 there's many many guys running 1.4 60 foot times on et streets all motor
1983 Mazda RX-7 GS 9.5 17.0
1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 7.8 15.9
Yes, that is interesting. I owned an 83 GS and the figure is correct, if you don't slip the clutch correctly. With a careful 2000 RPM drop, you can knock about .5 - .7 seconds off that time. I had an opportunity to drive an 84 GSL-SE and that number is pretty acurate as well. The difference, of course, is that the GS was carburated vs fuel injection for the GSL-SE. By the way, they were both tough little engines compared to the 13B we drive in our FDs.
1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 7.8 15.9
Yes, that is interesting. I owned an 83 GS and the figure is correct, if you don't slip the clutch correctly. With a careful 2000 RPM drop, you can knock about .5 - .7 seconds off that time. I had an opportunity to drive an 84 GSL-SE and that number is pretty acurate as well. The difference, of course, is that the GS was carburated vs fuel injection for the GSL-SE. By the way, they were both tough little engines compared to the 13B we drive in our FDs.
Originally Posted by Mazda99Nikon
1983 Mazda RX-7 GS 9.5 17.0
1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 7.8 15.9
The difference, of course, is that the GS was carburated vs fuel injection for the GSL-SE. By the way, they were both tough little engines compared to the 13B we drive in our FDs.
1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 7.8 15.9
The difference, of course, is that the GS was carburated vs fuel injection for the GSL-SE. By the way, they were both tough little engines compared to the 13B we drive in our FDs.
miss my 1st gen, took a beating and kepted on ticking; all day everyday.
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