Yes.
You can use a paperclip, or a small piece of wire to bridge the terminals.


The bulkhead connector the next poster is referring to is what I was saying in my post.

Do these things above, and that will give you a better idea of what's going on.

(Bridging the ports in the diagnostic box, or having someone turn the key in the ignition for a second or two will both work for your purposes.)

 

The connection inside the tank that passes thru the cover. Take a close look at the photos I posted and you will be able to see exactly what to look for.

 

Thank you guys! I'm going to try this tonight when I get home from work.

Again, very much appreciated.

Nick

 

Well gentlemen, the car is running! I really appreciate all the help and attention from the community. Special mention to my friend Phil, aicrotary2 on these boards. He walked me thru the testing procedure and made it easy for me.

So, here's what we did:

- Took the electrical tape off the relay to get to the wires going to it.

- Removed the wire coming directly off the battery to the relay (87 or 30 I can't remember)

- Tested that wire and got 12v

- Removed the wire from the relay that leads to the fuel pump clip

- Removed the inline fuse from the "hot" wire off the battery

- Jumped the connectors of the direct battery wire and the fuel pump power wire to deliver a full 12v direct off the battery to the pump

- After reconnecting my battery (have a battery cut switch behind seat, and cut power for safety) I replaced the fuse and heard the pump turned on

- Replaced the wiring as it was, battery wire to 80 or 37 (can't remember) and the fuel pump power wire to its respective spot on relay

- Started the car and saw 40psi fuel pressure on my SPA gauge and 40 psi on my Aeromotive FPR, at idle

I warmed the car up to around 130F coolant temp to avoid flooding or fouling the plugs potentially, and shut the car off.

I am SOOOO HAPPY right now! It was the simplest thing and it would seem that all is well with the car and the fuel pump.

Next, I'm debating rewiring the setup. I'd like to have it look a bit more professional and perhaps more functional. It appears that the clip connector that attached the direct "hot" wire from the battery to the relay was a bit loose and wasn't making the best contact. That in of itself is a simple fix. However, I'm wondering if I re-do the wiring, if I could use higher quality connectors and techniques to ensure this won't happen again.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me figure this out. And, if anyone here has any thoughts on where to go from here, please post up.

Next on the docket is this damn Innovate wideband which only reads 7.4...??

Nick

 

One more thing. When I removed the plugs initially cause I thought it may be flooded, I only could remove the trailing plugs because the leading are those "race" plugs that I can't fit my tool on to. When looking at the plugs, they were BUR7EQP.

I've heard that running hotter plugs in the trailing is a no-no. I can't confirm but I believe the leading plugs may be 10 heat range, as the car came with an empty box of NGK plugs: B10EGV.

Are the 7's in the trailing a problem?

Car has a street ported engine, GT40 single turbo, 52 trim, .95 AR, 550/1680 injectors, stock coils, 3" exhaust turbo back, running in a Microtech LT-9C.

Your thoughts?

Nick

 

I de-pinned the stock connector to avoid cutting any wire, then use slip terminal to make the connection, then heatshrink over it. I use polyolefin sealed crimp terminal for any connection that doesn't already have a slip terminal on it.



Fuse

 

Yes the trailing should never be hotter than a 9.
Tops leading and bottoms trailing...

 

^
other way around..
Trailing is Top
Leading is Lower

 

^ Yup

I just run all 9's on mine, and change them out every year (~2000 miles).

 

Thank you for correcting me.
Btw guys, if you are ever in doubt just look at the housings. It's stamped with a T and an L