Thanks for the all the info howard.. still learning everyday more

 

I, for one, enjoy the AI postings. It's a topic I know absolutely nothing about.

I was planning on just using a supersoaker for my water injection needs until this thread.

Thanks for the AI threads, keep 'em coming!

 

Armen, run a very small amount of water, a 300cc nozzle should do it, install it yourself, or if you need help, you're in SoCal, there should be plenty of people willing to help for a case of beer or some BBQ.
If all you want is reliability, just run water, it is my understanding that using a small amount of water will add reliability, steam clean and cool the internals, and just use a very basic, boost controlled switch set to turn on at 7 or 8 psi.
From everything I've seen, I would say its worth it. In howard's other extremely large thread about AI, he states he's been RACING the last 4 years with his system, and never blew the motor, and it was in almost as good of shape when he tore it down for inspection after 12k miles as when he put it in.

can't tell you how much power you'll lose, least ways not now, although I may be able to provide you with a rough guestimate based on my car here in a month or so.

I am by no means an expert, but this is probably what you'll be told by most who are. If I'm wrong, sorry in advance, but that's what I would do if I were in your situation

 

Based on Rich's Aquamist thread in the archives, installing the water injection pump (and even findng a place to put it) sounds like a major pita

 

Not sure why you say this Mark..... the spot I mounted the pump in works perfectly, and there are other choices as well. Behind the front bumper, corner of engine bay, etc.

 

im not sure about +20 degree
but
we sell peak -20 at my job so i have access to the MSDS it is approximately 33% methanol by weight, the gallon of fluid weighs around 8 pounds so thats 2.64 lbs of methanol
density of methanol is .7918g/cm^3 so thats about 1523 cubic cm^3 witch is around .40 of a gallon so by volume its 40%????

 

The greater the freeze protection, the more the methanol. +20 has very little alcohol.

 

exactly, i dont know how important the exact amount of methanol is mabye if you are running a map and tuning the boost up like howard it might be important to have the exact numbers. if i can find the +20 MSDS ill post that too

 

"Runs great, no more heat soak sluggishness anymore because of my tiny stock intercooler."

adamrs80 raises an interesting point. over the years the FD has developed an upgrade path.

the addition of AI changes the path a bit. one item near the top of the upgrade list has been the factory intercooler (F-IC). there is nothing wrong w the F-IC other than it is just a bit on the small side, especially if we change out exhaust components and run a tad more boost.

the immense cooling capacity of 300+ CC of water significantly reduces the need to upgrade the F-IC. (sure, switching it out is a plus as it adds additional cooling... my point is that the switch is not at the top on the priority list w AI).

let's also not forget that an upgraded IC doesn't decarbonize the motor.

switching gears for a moment... the intent of this thread is to provide help to all running the factory turbosystem. so much of the threads on the board deal w single turbos which is fine of course but this thread is for factory turbos.

further, i would prefer that we don't get lost in too much minutia here and rather focus on general aspects of AI systems, installation and outcomes.

anyone running an AI system on the factory turbos is encouraged to share their experiences.

howard

 

Howard,

My car is stock right now, but I plan on putting in a DP, Cat back, Air box Mod, and removing emissions stuff.

Would you recommend AI now, or should I wait till I get a little further along?

Do I need to get into a PFC first?

 

dagoof,

as i disassemble rotary engines i find virtually all of the have way too much carbon deposited on the rotors, rotor housings and in the apex seal grooves. in addition to cooling down your motor so you don't have knock or warped apex seals water steam cleans/removes the carbon.

lose the carbon... then get the PFC.

hc

 

my water injection kit should be winging it's way to me as we speak
Second hand, but all working!! On another note... I realy didn't think it made such a massive difference!

Jono

 

AEM or Aquamist, which one is better?

 

Which no doubt stems (yet again) from 1) pig rich tuning 2) OMP injecting four stroke oil to lubricate the apex seals.

Let me take this oppotunity to emphasize again that running high 10s to low 11s AFR contaminates the hell out of the oil, with almost all of these engines seeing 5-10% fuel dilution (an unheard of number, even in racing circles). The fuel dilution in turn severely degrades apparent viscosity and overall lubrication properties of the oil ina short period of time, and reduces OCI to less than 2,000 miles, synthetic or not.

Therefore, if you could pre-mix water with low 13s or high 12s AFR, you would truly have a win-win-win