meetRoX7e

iTrader: (6)

That is exactly correct, after doing that a few times I can get the car started.

Andre The Giant

iTrader: (21)

Ok then. The ignition switch should have the starter signal output when it's turned to the "start" position. Even if you turn the key slowly or whatever. Since you have to turn the key in a very specific way to get it to work at all, that indicates that the ignition switch contacts are damaged or something else is going on with it. Based on your symptoms and description it's likely that it's bad.
You have two main options. Buy a new one and replace it, and see if the problem is fixed.
Second option is to properly diagnose the issue. Remove the column covers, disconnect the ignition switch connector and use a multimeter to check the operation of the switch, details can be found in the FSM and the Factory wire diagram/ troubleshoot manuals.

billyboy

Looks like you're just starting to break through the casting too judging by a pin hole I think I can see. Very little in the way of meat left I've found even when taking it down 5mm let alone 6.

Was hoping to do that on a lathe, but the alignment is off centre - mounting in a rotary table had it done in a jiff though.

Andre The Giant

iTrader: (21)

Yes it's thin in that spot and definitely not ideal. I don't have any photos of the bracing I made for between the rear motor cap and the trans. Should help to remove some flex stress from the flange and prevent cracking the whole thing in half hahahaha!!!!
Still haven't cranked the motor over yet so that's sad.... Still working on the car.
Have you cranked yours yet or just finished machining it?

billyboy

It was used a few weeks back on the dyno, can't say I've witnessed it in operation though yet. The brace might be a good idea, although I guess with the way it spigots in the bellhousing, there's a bit of natural reinforcement.

meetRoX7e

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info, I went ahead and tested the ignition switch today. I have continuity in all positions except for start. I will be ordering a switch soon and hopefully that will fix that issue and hopefully with a bit of luck it will fix the issue with the starter upgrade haha. I knew I should have bench tested it before I installed it.

fdjonny

iTrader: (4)

Just to Triple confirm . Only the housing from the FD is being used correct that's including the Starter drive assembly ? or just the nose ? i'm having issues lining the long bolt holes. sorry for my idiocy lol

meetRoX7e

iTrader: (6)

You have the wrong starter, that happened to me. If you look at the stater house (black section) it will be longer on the 2.0kw version. If they are the same size you have the 1.8kw version. To answer you question, the only thing that will be used is the FD starter nose.

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

I just did this upgrade and it will not start my car... I have tried everything and you can hear the solenoid trigger but it will not turn over. I am starting to think I have a bad reman RX8 core.

This is maybe one of the easiest mods I have done to my car other than changing a light bulb but I am beyond frustrated!

Just to confirm, its the 2.0kw RX8 starter with a 13 tooth gear correct?

Andre The Giant

iTrader: (21)

Yes that is the correct model starter you need.
Double check the engagement fork is installed in the correct direction, and that the solenoid plunger is hooked into the fork correctly. The contactor for the motor is inside the solenoid. The solenoid may be clicking which means it is working, but something may be blocking it from full travel.
Also, it's been too long for me to remember for certain, but you may be able to swap the solenoid from your old assy for testing. I think they were almost identical but not 100% sure.
I will take a look at my parts at home tonight after work and see if I can come up with any other ideas that would help.

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

I did try to just swap the solenoid from the stock starter and it didnt even click at that point. It did seem like it wanted to crank at one point but it just made a grinding noise and quit.

I put the stock one back in for now and will take the RX8 starter to a parts store to be tested.

I hate when crap like this does not go as planned. This should have been a 45 min swap max!

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You may want to find if there's a local starter/alternator repair shop. We have one here in town (B&M) and they can more thoroughly test and also fix if something is not right.

Parts store just typically hooks a battery up and sees if it spins.

Dale

Max_Spd

iTrader: (78)

Anyone know the part # or where to get the rx8 nose needle bearing? I am trying to replace my brass bushing in mine with a bearing, since all rx8 noses seem to use them, assume for good reason!

Fraz McLennan

I've just done this but when starting the car it grids but does fire up. From reading it I understood you only used the RX7 nose cone piece. Therefore I emptied its contents out and used the RX8 nose cone internals in the the RX7 nose cone.

The RX7 cone internals didn't appear to fit the RX8 motor. Have I done this wrong? I still have all the bits of the RX7 one.

Another question I have is the solenoid in the RX8 motor is different to the RX7 one. The RX7 one looks the same as in the tutorial video but the RX8 one is more of a 'sealed' unit with a plastic pinion.

Anyone able to clarify this for me please.

Fraz McLennan

In case anyone is looking in future. I've used the N3H1A RX8 starter motor with the RX7 solenoid, RX7 nose cone with all RX8 internals. This set up is running absolutely fine. No grinding and engine fires on the first crank. Genuinely can't believe the difference it makes. Sounds 10x better too.

Max_Spd

iTrader: (78)

As probably was mentioned, RX-8's came with 3 different starters, the early ones were the same motor as ours, the later were updated to 2kW, this is the one you want, the latest is the for S2 or 2009+ and is a different design and you can not use it. The only thing you need to do is make sure the motor is slightly longer (the big black cylinder) which will indicate 2kW motor. And just swap that. The starting solenoid should be the same. Grinding to me indicates that the gear is not being pushed all the way forward when engaged. So test it out on a bench or play with it, maybe there is an issue with bearing on the RX-7 nose cone piece.

Fraz McLennan

When I took it off you could see that only half the gear on the starter motor was engaging.

The N3H1 is the old one. The N3H1A is one of the 2kW starters that has 13 teeth. It's longer than the 7 one. I think I just didn't put the solenoid back in properly or the 8 one wasn't working correctly cause I've taken it off and they look identical except for a rubber cover. Having put it all back together it works perfectly.

This is the RX7 nose on the RX8 starter

billyboy

As noted a few posts above you by the OP, it is possible to use the faster 14 tooth starter, but it's just not unbolt and replace a nose. I see on yahoo now, the Japanese are selling them for the FD, so they've likely got denso/mitsubishi or whoever made them, to actually cast a proper piece, avoiding machining.

Max_Spd

iTrader: (78)

That would be awesome if we could use them, the issue the original member had machined around the mounting to accept and make the gear mover further inward to the front to make a better engagement with the flywheel.

@billyboy any links to these newer cast options? Would love to see what those look like as compared to the standard RX-8 S2 v3 2.2kW starters.

billyboy

Just had a quick look on yahoo under electrical, lots of 130A alternators, but can't find those. I'm wondering if I saw them somewhere else now, must have been in the last 4~6 weeks too!

Max_Spd

iTrader: (78)

Keep trying, I would love to get a reduction gear 2.2kW motor spinning my triangles! :P