My brother an I buaght a 93 FD TT about 3 months ago.
Drove the car from Dallas to Houston, an within a week we had TIEN coilovers, Tenable sway bars, an full set of Prosport gusges fitted.

We had an issue with the car during at idle only when the A/C was on, but thats been resolved.

We sent the car to a local shop in Houston to have a complete tune up done, everything from belt, water pump, pullys, plugs-wires, oil change, trany-diff fluid change, an all new vacuum hoses,
And a brand new set of 99 spec infini Turbos, 3inch down pipe, an titanium Greedy exhaust.
Long story short the mechanic told us there was oil in the intake manifold an that one of the turbos was no good an not even working. The motor was rebuilt by rotary performance 3700 miles before we buaght the car.

Here's the thing. I font trust this mechanic or anything he has told me. At this point the car still has its factory turbos fitted an I'm not sure if they are truly blown or working. I'm going to discredite everything this dip S*%$ told me (always listen to your gut).
I'm having a bogging issue down low when I full throttle the car, manly in 2,3,4 gears an seems to lessen the more you drive the car (after 30 mins or 25 miles or so) it dosnt stop, just isn't as active like at first.

I'm going to change all my vacuum lines an Do a leak down test. I don't like others working on my performance cars I prefer to do things my self, we have a built 240z stroker turbo an if I could do it agisn no shop world have ever touched it, although it has turned out nicely

Anyways that's the up to date on the FD, I want to see what the factory turbos heath is like before boating the infini turbos on, I may post the infini turbos for sale is my factorys are good.

The build spec for our FD is a DD that can be driven to the track for MSR an road race (autocross) events to perform.
Looking for 350-370whp, rotary motor only an twin turbos. No body kits or ricer inspired image junk for this FD.

 

Sorry for the miss spells here an there, walking an posting from my smart phone has its draw backs.

"Dieing at idle"
"dont trust this"
"health is like before bolting"

 

It sounds like one of your turbos could be bad. I would first check out the intercooler. Oil blow by tends to collect at the bottom of it after some time. Take it off, check its condition, drain and clean it out if needed. Dont forget to clean up the rest of your piping. Bolt it back on and see if it is still doing the same thing. maybe be able to get away with just an oil catch can. If you start to notice extreme oil loss I would think that the turbo seal is completely gone.... Just a few random thoughts for you. Good luck with your FD!

 

If she makes 10lbs of boost above 6k rpms then both turbos are "working"

Oil in the intake pipes is not always indicative of a fried turbo. It is unlikely that the turbos were replaced with new ones at the time of rebuild.

New turbos: $2500
Decent used turbos: $200

I wouldnt worry unless the car displays low/no boost in upper rev range.

 

Just drove it to work not but an hour ago.

Under full throttle it makes 1-2 psi after bogging for a Secound or two. Randomly it will boost up to 5 psi but its rare.
I was hoping it was a major boost leak but ill have to check the lines.
Could there be a wastegate issue was one of my other thoughts.

Thanks for the feed back !!!!

 

Cross your fingers and look for major boost leaks. Sounds like your turbos may be shot.

 

The lack of boost is almost certainly not the turbos themselves. It's probably part of the solenoids, actuators, or the pressure or vacuum storage system. There are links to turbo troubleshooting but it's probably a simple boost leak or loose vacuum hose.

Oil leaking into the intake is possibly from a tired seal in one of the compressor but if so it's not an urgent matter. It is normal for the intake to always be a bit wet with oil. You don't really need to replace the turbos until they are dumping oil and you see smoke coming out the exhaust.

 

generally if there is a turbo issue with the turbos themselves they will "moan" while spooling and/or spew clouds of white smoke out the exhaust under boost.

the sequential system, if not working properly, can bypass all of the effort the turbos are trying to produce. so IMO you have a problem within the sequential system which is VERY common this late in the game. replacing the turbos likely won't fix the issue, but it can take hours to days dissecting the system and replacing components as it is not something you can easily pinpoint issues with. first place to start is to inspect the vacuum lines from the turbos to the solenoid rats nest and see if the restrictor pills are still in place.

 

It couldn't hurt to remove the compressor housing intake flanges and try to spin the blades by hand. That could almost rule out the turbos in a half hour. The front is very easy to get to, the rear is substantially more difficult to access without the proper tools. (jack and jack stands) If they spin freely with no play, and the blades look intact, they're more than likely still good. You can't check the exhaust blades with this inspection though.

Just my $.02. Rule out the turbos (almost) and then start the inevitable vacuum/solenoid/valve/etc testing.

 

Thanks for feed back.
I'll see my self to the trouble shooting thread over the stock turbo system.
I'll check vac system an blades shaft play.
Keep yall posted.

P.S. kinda a funny story.
The FD has a new factory red paint job, looks great inside an out. But was washing it yesterday after work, when I went to was over the head lights, the passenger side head light cover it's self snap of the head light assembly...LOL.
Shaking my head, as I laughed, my dad stops an gives me an idea to attach it.
I used "Great Stuff" house hold weather sealent to bound it back to a proper fit.
Worked really well since its 1 inch diameter spread gave it a great contact pattern.

Also have used this great stuff for restoring old school 240z dash bords, with sealing cracks. The open air pockets left after it drys an cures works well with fiber glass. After witch some wet sand paper, degrees, an textured black paint finishes the job.
Lucky though my OEM dash is 110% original an perfect

 

the headlight covers always do that if you touch them more than ever so lightly.