Well, there you go. Hope this makes you happy.

Now forget this nonsense about taking a hiatus from HPDE events.

 

Manny,
Its hard being a sourpuss with Regan around, ask me how i know....

But, he's right.... dump the FMIC, fix yer shitty old bushings, get dual CWR oil coolers (if you haven't already), and we'll see you at VIR.

 

Manny, if you are interested I have one of the best IC/CAI/Cooling setups for sale for a pretty good price.
Includes Large SMIC, CAI, Ducting, and Radiator Relocation Mounts.

 

wow i just read all this...sounds like me when i tried drag racing my FD.......three broken trannies two broken diffs, set of axles, three ppfs, some other stuff too!

i think in short you need to plan to have twice as much time and money as you think you need to race an FD

my FD is now totalled due to an ******* jetta driver so i'm trying to figure what i'm gonna do with $30k in parts from my FD

 

Sorry to read about your misfortune, vosko...

$30k in parts?! Duh-aauhm!

 

I'm happier. Heat soak is a problem for the precontrol/wastegate solenoid. It seems to malfunction when everything gets hot (boost increases with engine speed). It's that or the Power FC switches to complete nonsequential when the AITs are in the 50-60 C range? Anyhoo, with 7 to 10 hard dyno runs, the car was still making 300 Mustang Dyno hp, so at least I know that the car is capable of that level hp even under extreme heat soak conditions with 15 psi boost from J-spec twins. Peter, if I make it to VIR in Fall 2004, I'm going to rent one of Fritz Flynn's well-sorted FDs

 

Trev Dagley's old but excellent setup?

 

That's correct!!!

 

Yeah, it's too bad, Trev didn' do more with that. His and the CWR, are the best SMIC setups IMHO

 

You can get the problend "cools like icewater" at Advance Auto here in MO. I know you can order direct from them also. THey have all kinds of other additives and things. I talked extensively to their tech dept. to be sure they had experience in rotaries and they in fact informed me that they had a rotary engine builder (don't know who ) on staff that uses this in his ITA car(SCCA Class) I am not exactly sure what the chemical is in it but I do know the **** works! It is compatible with regular coolant and water whereas Evans is not and therefor you'd need to flush the system repeatedly before installing evans. More auto parts stores are starting to carry the Problend things and I believe AutoZone just started carrying the "cools like icewater" also. There are several variations of it, it comes premixed in a gallon can, concentrated in a quart sized can and in a small pint sized bottle like Water Wetter.

Art

 

Now your talking

By next fall I'll have atleast 2 well sorted fds

 

how much to rent one

 

I'd guess more than the cost to run @ VIR in 2004

 

i better get a free rental or atleast a good deal if i sell fritz my FD

 

So does that make 3 well-sorted FDs, Fritz?

 

Damon, for one thing a rotary engine has very few parts and it much simpler than a piston engine, therefore the 13B is much more simular than the 26B than say a Viper V10 and F1 engine. Furthermore, I was only comparing it to the 26B because it HAS been prepared and seemingly had all the weak links adressed. However, my engine is currently running like ****, so you may have a point after all.

I currently seem to also be having some of the problems that were brought up in the thread...
Since my new engine mount, subframe, and swaybar have been installed I've had some rather severe oil problems. For one, when I park the car it always leaks in about 16 spots all ranging throughout an area of the engine bay. A bunch of oil has also collected in the bottom left (facing the car) of the massive RE Amemiya single filter. If I run the car hard and park it, smoke will come out of the hood and under the car. The Cat has also become clogged and destroyed which leads me to my next point.

Thinking about my options for replacing the main cat I recalled a conversation I had with Chuck (rotaryextreme) awhile back about an all-metal cat. I'm not exactly sure how it works, but I suppose it would be lighter, last longer, and have a greater flow rate than a traditional high-flow cat, especially with the amount of heat we put out. I remember him saying that it's a new technology and currently in use with high end car manufacturers such as BMW and Mercedes. Some aftermarket companies have also produced some units such as RE Amemiya, but they're prices are a bit exhorbant in the $1k+ range. He said he could make one for me for a lot cheaper because he has a manufacturer of the cores allready sourced. Perhaps if some other people were interested too he'd be more inclined to start up on the project and perhaps give us a gb discount. I think I'll start a thread on it to see how many people are interested, does anyone here think it might be a good idea?

 

My blue base model is getting a ported engine from RP Performance in Manassas Va and I hope to go single and have Reactive Racing tune it. Will also put a 99 front bumper on with another large oil cooler. Also selling my fluidyne and putting in a koyo with evans coolant. My understanding is the coolant temps are very hot like 250s but it still pulls hard because the actual moving parts are cooler from passing more heat to the coolant. I think the boiling temp on the evans is 370 versus 270 for standard coolant. So you would have to get your car extremely hot to cause any real trouble.

CYM will be a daily driver/back up track car and I'm going to add some nice coilovers and only run 7lbs of boost. Its a strong car so its actually still decent at those levels. You can rent the track model for 750 or the cym for 500. Per day of course I just had it at Summit Point and my lap times were not significantly slower than my track car. Still have heat issues though I had to shift at 5500 or 6000 for a couple of laps to avoid running hot. Thats with dual oil coolers and a mazda comp radiator. I will throw some water wetter in for my next event and see if that helps although it will most likely be a mute point because the ambient temps will be like pretty low.

 

Yeah yeah I should have just come and picked that puppy up. I'd have a nice single set up right now. Sorry you missed my voice messages. Anyway good luck parting it although I'm quite sure you'll do very well

 

haha, everyone abandons the thread after I request for some help?

 

Hey Chronos,

I thought your motor was recently built? There shouldn't be any leaks from a newly built motor? Are you referring to your current motor? How many miles are on that one? What mods? Can you pinpoint the oil leak origins?

I suggest spraying BrakeKleen all over the motor and cleaning all the oil off. Run the motor at idle and look for leaks at that point. If you see no leaks after idling for awhile, run the car hard, park it, then look for leaks.

The places I'd look for leaks after running the car hard (on-boost) are: stock y-pipe coupler, throttlebody-to-intake elbow rubber gasket, and oil filler neck pipe-to-motor o-ring gasket (tricky to seat properly).

FWIW, I had a Bonez hi-flow cat clog after 5 years and 74,000 miles. Symptoms were low boost, 8-0-4, and eventually 4-0-4. Recently replaced with stainless steel midpipe (straight-through, nonresonated); boost is now 12-13-12 with Power FC set to 0.85 kg/cm^2 Pr/Sc 50% base duty

 

I dunno, Fritz, I've never been sold on the Evans stuff. I'd be interested in trying the Problend stuff, Art clued us into Although, I won't have to worry about heat since my car has been retired to street rod only

Quote:

CYM will be a daily driver/back up track car and I'm going to add some nice coilovers and only run 7lbs of boost. Its a strong car so its actually still decent at those levels.

7 psi only? Is that intentional, is there a problem? I don't have the discipline to run only 7 psi--must do at least stock boost--10 psi so Power FC would be set for 10 psi Pr/Sc

Quote:

You can rent the track model for 750 or the cym for 500. Per day of course

Hmmm...CYM $500 x 2, plus $350 for the VIR event + hotel + food + beer + plus drinks for the "cuties". I guess I'll have to instruct, and catch rides with you, Fritz

What other mods are on the CYM car?

 

I just built a splitter for my car with the idea of improving radiator cooling. It appears to work much better than I expected! Photos and description in this thread:

DamonB's front splitter for cooling

 

7 is intentional its got one of those old pettit manual boost controllers that works ok but you get a small spike and then it settles. Thats also as low as it goes and my boost gauge is off because I have 20lbs of vacuum at 700rpm so its more likely that I'm boosting about 8.

Only mods are: pettit smic, dp, cb, rad, sway, and links. The engine and turbos are really strong and without an ecu its best to keep the boost down a bit anyway. The last time I used it on the track it was 80 out and I had to shift before 6k (now that takes discipline). I need to fab up some ducts for the radiator and clean the oil coolers.

Come down to VIR this spring and let me take a few laps in the rx8 and I'll return the favor in whatever car I have

 

When I had something similar, it was the oil lines for my turbos.

 

i got the voicemails but i was towing a trailer with a front clip from a 180sx from japan. couldn't really talk if you know what i mean

i haven't actually taken it apart yet but i did get some offers for $15k for it

i'm bored i'll shoot off a PM