Copeland

iTrader: (42)

93 Automatic w/ SMIC replacement, BOV, Intake filters (cone), some sort of non-seq mod I believe (looks wired open), radiator, 185F thermoswitch, air pump removed, exhaust w/ cat replacement

Ok so I've been working on this car for months on end. The car caught on fire and melted a few wires and vacuum lines. It originated @ the pd. I replaced the pd and the wire harness. I replaced all the burnt items on the engine. The turbos look to be setup in a non-seq manner and it has no air pump. The car ran fine (not sure how fine) before the fire and now it is missing or something that sounds like it is missing. The car will run rough when it's started and smoke pretty bad. It's a gray smoke and it will sometimes spit out black liquid. It runs very rough under load and you can tell its breaking up. The ignition harness is new and the coils were replaced with used coils. It will not build boost because it's breaking up so badly. I can't figure out what's wrong with it and would like anyones input.

Replaced/checked:
Compression = good
PD = new
Fuel lines = new
Coils = replaced once, then replaced again; both used.
Vacuum lines = some replaced some left
Wiring harness = replaced with used harness
TPS = new
MAP = checked out fine
Spark plugs = replaced new
Coil harness = new

Problems:
Supposedly throwing turbo/wastegate solenoid codes
Will not drive good under load, breaks up
Will not build boost in gear but it will at idle (rough)

I can't figure out the problem and hopefully it's something stupid I just haven't noticed. I have had some problems figuring out the wiring behind the thermostat and I don't know if that would affect the way the engine runs. The two sensors in the back don't seem to be wired properly. Maybe it's insignificant.

Feel free to ask questions I'll get back to them asap. Thanks
This is my friends car so I'll answer what I can. I just want to help him get it running!

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

Maybe your omp is bad (limp mode). Try reset the computer by unplugging the battery.

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

I've tried resetting the ECU also and I have also tried replacing the ECU with several others. Thanks for your input and that is a great point to mention. Sorry I forgot to mention that.

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

I can't figure out the problem and hopefully it's something stupid I just haven't noticed. I have had some problems figuring out the wiring behind the thermostat and I don't know if that would affect the way the engine runs. The two sensors in the back don't seem to be wired properly. Maybe it's insignificant.

The 2 sensor especially the bottom sensor will affect the way your car runs and idle. Plug the bottom sensor in.

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

Forgot to add that the top green sensor is for the Efan

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

What is the bottom sensor? What color wire plugs into it, because the clip is broken off. I know it is soldered but I don't know if the wire is the right wire or not. Thanks again!

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

It's a black single wire plug. Without it plugged your check engine light should come on.

happyFD

The top sensor with the green clip is the water thermosensor. The bottom sensor is the thermoswitch for turning on the fans. Auto FDs also have a sensor in the front of the thermostat housing for the tranny 'computer' (not the small coolant level sensor but above it).

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

My bad I got it backward.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

You did have resistors installed in the 7 or 8 connectors for the rats nest correct? This will put the car in limp mode without the 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors. Once the resistors are installed the car will still pull some of the same codes but will not be in limp mode any longer. I didnt see in your post anywhere about you installing the resistors. If you haven done so this should fix your problem asap.

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

What are the 7 and 8 connectors?
I left all the solenoids under the UIM but disconnected all the vacuum lines.

I redid all the vacuum lines that were used today (non-seq setup) with new lines and redid any of engine harness if it was frayed or cracked. It ran a lot better and no longer smokes. It still has a huge hesitation and it will not boost fully (not more than 1 or 2 lbs) and it breaks up in the higher range (4k+). It shifts rough and will not come out of 2nd gear. It will start in 1st shift no matter how much throttle @ 4500rpms and never come out of 2nd except to downshift. I think the transmission computer is messed up somehow so I am going to mess around with that tomorrow. Errr I hate automatics...wish the owner would just let me do a swap. Anyone have a idea why the car isn't running higher than 4500 rpms?

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

make sure the knock sensor is plugged up correctly and that your plug wires are connected correctly. Meaning you haven't switched the trailing or leading on the engine or coil sides.