sorry to hear that Jedon, just hope everything comes out better than before the accident. Make sure you stick it to his insurance if they try to lowball you.

 

Go to the rev/idle screen and set the rev limiter for like 2000 rpms, then take the commander with you.....lets them drive the sucker around, but they sure as hell won't joy ride it with that kind of a rev limiter

 

Cool thanks GoodfellaFD3S, I'll do that.
Thank you all for your support, I'll post back when I get the appraisal and let you know how much the estimate is, my insurance guy said I'd have a check by the end of next week.

 

hey I've gotten into an accident last month, and finnally its going into a body shop to get fixed. ***I feel your pain***

 

Jedon,

I'm real sorry to hear about your accident. But every downfall has it's upside (you can get the aftermarket body parts you want w/o spending a lot )

I agree w/ what Turbojeff said regarding have the insurance company cut you the check, then buy the parts on your own for cheaper. BUT, I also HIGHLY suggest you ask ppl in your area of a good body shop in the area that's familiar w/ FDs. Take the car to him if you can (tow it even if you have to), and let him know the insurance company is coming to assess the damage. Why? Cuz you'd be surprised how insurance companies underrate the labor and materials required to finish the job right...just to cut costs. This is an insurance company man lol. They're not your friends! They'll cut costs wherever and however they can. In fact, some insurance company policies allow them to use used replacement parts in good condition... So I'd go over the estimate before it's finalized, and even if necessary, after it's completed, making sure all the parts are designated new, and are list price at your local Mazda dealership.

I've been w/ my body shop guy quite a few times (for my FD and other ppl's FDs), and he's very good at this. He goes over the entire car w/ the insurance agent, telling them "no, I need 3 hours for this, not 2," or "paint is gonna cost this, not that much"...or even "no i'm not gonna half *** it and just get a new door skin...this needs a new door to be done right" etc. That's your best investment...you get a more accurate assessment of the damage, and you get more spending $$...

 

Maybe I'm not an insurance adjuster or anything like that, but since HE ran the stop sign doesn't it not matter how much the damages will cost, all you have to do is pay your premium correct? The only thing that could scew you is if it's a total loss in which case repairs may cost more than the check they give you. And I also from the look of those swirl marks on your fender and door it looks like you could use a new paint job =P. LAY OFF THE BUFFING! =P

 

Not to be **** but...it's the deductible that he has to pay, not the entire premium.

Oh and there's absolutely no way this is a total loss...that's another thing you gotta be careful w/. Sometimes insurance companies are quick to "total" a car cuz it's to their benefit. How? They cut you a check for say $11K (which is wayy under the car's value, but comparable to KBB or NADA values), and say if you want the car, they'll sell it back to ya for $6K. That way, they paid $5K total, vs. say the $8 - $9K this repair could cost (if done completely right).

Don't be afraid to differ and argue w/ your insurance company. I had a situation where they tried to total my dad's Camry, even though the damage was definitely under the value of the car. I spoke to the claim agent, then the adjuster, then the supervisor, and I believe even the regional supervisor. Showed them NADA values (it's a Camry lol), two different estimates from different body shops, and contrasted it w/ their statements (they didn't even do a breakdown estimate...they just "visually" called it a total loss). So bottom line is, while accident claims can many a time go smoothly and w/o a hitch, stay on your toes nonetheless, and if they step on your toes, step back on theirs

EDIT: oh and I won the battle w/ the insurance company lol...and they paid every single last cent to fix my dad's car.

 

Deductable is what I meant to say =P

 

Yea..I know...I figured as much

 

Actually, it's typically around 10-20% of their estimated value of the car.

After talking with Jim Dagley, I paid $1,700 for his totaled CYM R1 (valued at $17,000 by the insurance company) which had a fully polished $5,000+ 3mm ceramic apex seal engine in it. The ASP large IC was salvageable (but not the duct), as was the transmission, and a few other parts. The rest of the car was a complete loss. We needed the engine to sweeten a deal to sell his son Trev's R1 (which Jeff Hoskinson ended up buying from the first buyer and reassembling), since it was completely stripped and disassembled, and money was still owed on it. The sales made enough to pay off Trev's debt, and I gave the IC to a friend.

Bottom line, it can be to your advantage to buy back a totaled car, especially if it had a lot of aftermarket parts on it that are salvageable but that the insurance company isn't willing to reimburse you for.

Typically, if the cost to repair the damage exceeds 60-70% of the estimated value of the car, it's totaled, especially if there is frame damage.

There's a good reason for totaling a vehicle. Not everyone is as competent as Jeff Hoskinson at restoring wrecked cars and it prevents highly damaged cars from being put back on the street while the owners make small cosmetic fixes and pocket the rest of the money, or worse, sell the damaged car to someone else after making those cosmetic fixes.

 

Typically, yes. But I didn't pull that # outta my ***. That's an actual figure given by an insurance company for a fellow forum member's FD that was in a serious accident, and was at Mr. Spoiler's shop for the estimate. I forget the owner's name (I don't know him personally), but he was trying to get $28K for the car. And since you have the right to ask them how much they'd sell the car to you for if they totalled it, he did and the clearly stated $6K (cuz of the mods on the car). Go figure.

I forget what he ended up doing, but I think he got the $28K, bought the car back for $6K, and parted it out, and made more than the $6K back lol

Depending on the price...

Understandable, but sometimes it IS cosmetic damage. With my dad's Camry, there was no considerable frame damage (the front bumper support bar needed straightening in one corner, that's all). The rest was added costs due to the type of injury -- a truck swerved in front of him, and the front of his car made contact w/ the rear metal bar of the truck. Result: the impact does NOT involve my dad's bumper...it goes straight for the front of the car: lights, grill, radiator, hood, fenders get bent at the edges, etc. That stuff adds up real quick.

 

A kitty cat found your hood as a nice playground.

 

Jim is controversial, I think that you should just give a little respect to the Rotary. Not every day you can see 400+ HP from a 1.3 litre motor.

 

BTW that is in response to your 20B posts =P

 

If that was MY kitty, I woulda found a new doormat...

Uh ohs....

 

If your not at fault for an accident then you don't have to pay your deductable. The deductable only comes into play when the loss (accident) is your fault.

Say you have a single car accident on a back road, your fault, you pay your collision deductible. Collision coverage is used when you hit something and it is your fault.

Say you hit a deer, you pay your comprehensive deductible. Comprehensive covers theft, vandalism, "acts of god" such as storm damage, falling objects, flood, etc.

In this case I assume the Civic driver was 100% at fault, he will get 100% reimbursed for the loss. How that loss is calculated is another thing and usually subject to a little interpretation and negotiation.

Insurance laws vary somewhat widely by state. Some states are "no-fault", that means you cover your own loss.

 

Since we're being so free this morning with sharing opinions on subjects that have nothing to do with this thread, I think you should eat a nice fresh bag of ****.

BTW, welcome to the forum. I can see already that you're going to be a great addition to the knowledge pool...

 

Some states, like Washington, can determine arbitrary percentages of fault, and you may be required to prove in court that the other driver's fault exceeded your own. If the other driver is at least 51% at fault, they pay for your damages, and vice versa.

 

YES!

 

Jim, as I stated in one of my previous posts, that comment was in relation to the 20B posts you've been making. And hey, quit the name calling eh?

 

Hey man if youre still lookin for parts dont buy those fenders. Last I checked I can get new stock fenders for 153 a pop. Lemme know.

 

Man, that blows.

it's ur second accident in a FD.

 

my accident was alot worse but i hit the car a bit faster. off the top of my head my car was valued at $18000 - buy back - 10% at fault for being involved in accident. i think the check was $15,750 for my car. just remember you don't have to take what the insurance company gives you. i had to argue with them for 3 months with pictures police reports to get near what i wanted.... they originally wanted to give me a check for $9k and be done!!!

most important thing is you are ok

 

Like I said, a topic that has nothing whatsoever to do with this thread.

And hey, learn to identify actual name calling. Typically, it follows a pattern like "You are a ___________."

"I think you should eat a nice fresh bag of ****" is merely my personal opinion. Of course, my personal opinion now is that you should supersize it.

 

*ZING* nice, very nice. I bow down to thy. Happy now?