The thread you're talking about, where the y-pipe was in the way of the air pump, was an isolated incident that got fixed. Mine went in without a problem, as have many others. I wouldn't dog on the BNR's fitment quite so quickly (especially if you don't need to worry too much about emission and plan on removing the air pump anyway).

 

hi all, thank you for good replys so far on the BNR IIIs for the FD

The fueprobleml will not be an issue over here, we have 98octane pumpgas standard

 

The ratings arn't the same for Norway and the USA, just so you know...

They have RON rating plus MON rating divided by 2 and we have RON. Google it for a better answer...

 

98 RON is still nice though. It equals 94 Octane.

The reason I say this is because the pumps where I get gas (US Military base in the UK) lists both RON and Octane rating at the pumps.

Even so, 98 RON is going to be very safe. If you do decide to go with BNR's you may want to go ahead and upgrade your fuel delivery system anyway though (not sure if you have previously done this) since you will probably want to raise the boost level to get full use from them. I believe the stock fuel system starts taxing itself heavily at 13psi without modification.

 

It's the good deal man. Look it up in the AI section of the forum. Too much info for one reply box.

Well, you'd be **** out of luck then huh!? What if my coolant seals fail on me? AWE SHIET IT ALREADY DID. I shouldn't rely on those things either I guess...HAHA!

 

Holy Carp!! I thought he was kidding about that else I would have chimed in...

Auxillary Injection (AI), aka Water/Meth Injection is probably the best insurance you could buy when it comes to IATs and higher boost pressure.. I'd think that once you get fairly serious about modding your engine and turning up the boost it should be on your list of toys for your toy.

I plan on getting a setup once I get my stimulus check back from Uncle Sam (was going to get a replica FEED style vented hood, but thinking AI is better for the cooling).. Aquamist 1s (+ flow meter) and higher boost here I come!!

 

There are no fitment problems.

 

How much you think the whole kit is gonna cost you plus instal?

 

Kit is going to cost just under $700, flow meter.. not sure. Install, I'll have to ask the shop I use what they charge (I'll have it dyno tuned, AGAIN, after having it put on. So that will add to the price). I figure the shop fee's will end up being around 200 pounds ($400) and I have no idea about the cost of the flow meter. Planning on the safe side, I'll set aside $1,500 for the whole thing. Ground up. But I'll know more when I actually get the ball rolling.

 

I priced out a full AI purchase, install, and tune.. Worked out to be around $1800 ($900 in parts)

 

oh.. iv seen this AI on the rx7 store.. not sure how it works or what it really does.. i couldnt find a real answer for it..

 

That means you need to do more research.

 

Damn, looks like I got some more saving to do.

How much boost you guys planning on running with AI and BNR's

 

18 psi eventually if it doesn't blow the **** up even with the AI LOL

 

I'm currently tuned to 16psi with plenty of fuel left over (only at 74% IDC, maxed RPM). Main limiting factor for me right now is intake temps... figure drop smallest amount of mist possible to still achieve cooling (avoiding the drop in HP associated with too much injection) and see how much further I can push it. I'm with RX7 RAGE, probably shoot for 18 or 19 psi for my high setting (keep 12psi on low) based entirely off of IAT and IDC..

No point in trying to push more than your system can handle, just to get an extra 10-15whp.

 

I'm running Devil's Own AI. Kit was roughly $200 shipped (Without the reservoir). Seems pretty cheap to me. I didn't get the reservoir since I'm running a water meth mixture and can just use a windshield washer tank

 

How much power you planning to make at 18psi and why are u at 325 @1.1bar w/ BNRS?
My plan is to eventually get an AI kit and run 16-17psi with as little AI needed to keep it relieable and make good #'s. The only thing im worried about is getting a good tuner for the AI since I dont know anyone here who knows how to work with AI and rotaries.

 

Not sure how much I'd crank out at 18psi, hehe. I'm only showing 325 right now based off the dyno which the numbers came from. Dyno Dynamics numbers tend to be about 18% lower than something from a Dynojet dyno, and 15% lower than a Dynapack.

In the end numbers are just numbers. Dyno's are simply a tool to allow you more effective (and safer) tuning. If you have your car mapped for optimal (consistant) performance, reliability and solid AFR's than you're doing well, regardless of what a printed piece of paper says ^_^ I'd rather have a road tune from Steve Kahn than a dyno tune from some goober who just bought a DL.

So... take my 325whp (measured on Dyno-Dynamics) and add 18% (about 60hp) and I'm showing more "American" numbers @ 383.5whp. Which is where I was expecting I'd end up at anyway considering I have completely stock ports (though very strong compression ~ 8.6-9.0)

As for A/I tuning.. I believe there are two ways to initiate flow. 1) boost level (say 5psi, hit that and you automatically spray. Drop back down below 5psi and you stop spraying) or 2) write spray pattern/characteristics into your fuel maps.

The standard (and easier) way to do it is through boost activation. Just install the smallest nozzle for effective cooling (in order to minize power loss) and you are in business.