FD been sitting, rough guess of $$$ to make it right?
#1
FD been sitting, rough guess of $$$ to make it right?
Looking at a 40k mile 1 owner FD. It’s been sitting for years. It’s an R1 in red. The clear is shot and needs a total repaint. Underside is perfect and engine looks good besides age oxidation on intake manifold. It runs and drives but has not been serviced or regularly used in 5+ years, let’s call it a decade. Anyone have an idea what it will cost to make it look/run/drive perfect?
paint job that is factory quality or close to it
what engine work will need to be done?
Thanks
paint job that is factory quality or close to it
what engine work will need to be done?
Thanks
#3
#4
Once you start tearing into things you may find oil leaks , coolant leaks, brake hoses needing replaced, etc.This is where things could spiral without a really thorough inspection.
Cars don't like to sit for long periods.
In my opinion, if you can snag it, do it. They obviously aren't making anymore of them, and a LHD, one owner R1 is a very rare car these days. If you feel up to the task to resurrecting it and keeping it on the road, get it!
#5
Looking at a 40k mile 1 owner FD. It’s been sitting for years. It’s an R1 in red. The clear is shot and needs a total repaint. Underside is perfect and engine looks good besides age oxidation on intake manifold. It runs and drives but has not been serviced or regularly used in 5+ years, let’s call it a decade. Anyone have an idea what it will cost to make it look/run/drive perfect?
paint job that is factory quality or close to it
what engine work will need to be done?
Thanks
paint job that is factory quality or close to it
what engine work will need to be done?
Thanks
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C S (04-27-24)
#6
Hard to say. It will definitely need attention to vacuum lines, hoses, all new fluids at minimum. This is basic stuff not specific to a rotary that most owners can handle if you have any mechanical knowledge.
Once you start tearing into things you may find oil leaks , coolant leaks, brake hoses needing replaced, etc.This is where things could spiral without a really thorough inspection.
Cars don't like to sit for long periods.
In my opinion, if you can snag it, do it. They obviously aren't making anymore of them, and a LHD, one owner R1 is a very rare car these days. If you feel up to the task to resurrecting it and keeping it on the road, get it!
Once you start tearing into things you may find oil leaks , coolant leaks, brake hoses needing replaced, etc.This is where things could spiral without a really thorough inspection.
Cars don't like to sit for long periods.
In my opinion, if you can snag it, do it. They obviously aren't making anymore of them, and a LHD, one owner R1 is a very rare car these days. If you feel up to the task to resurrecting it and keeping it on the road, get it!
what is it work? Is 15-20k a good price
#7
Expect to pay anywhere from $10k-20k for a quality paint job. These cars are too special to slap the cheapest paint job from the lowest bidder on. You'll probably get people telling you they can do it for $7k or whatever, but remember you get what you pay for, and at least in my opinion the paint presentation isn't worth skimping on. To really get things right, the seals, doors, glass all need to come out to do it correctly. If you plan to keep the car long term, and you have that pride of ownership, it may be worth it to you.
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#8
well he mentioned there was a small mouse in a nest a few years ago by the rain tray. How concerning is that? Years later all the electronics work car runs drives etc. the car needs a full repaint , underside is mint, steering wheel has some weird white scratch or fade mark on the center but should be ok . Seats mint besides the driver side bolster having normal wear. Aftermarket head unit..
what is it work? Is 15-20k a good price
what is it work? Is 15-20k a good price
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CREEPENJEEPEN (04-27-24)
#10
If the seller will cooperate and there is a true rotary shop nearby,, have th ecar taken there for:
1. Compression test - ideally over 100 psi on all six faces, but if below that look to the psi to be close on all the faces
2. Smoke test - will show where there are ;leaks in the intake and vacuum hose systems
3. Coolant system pressure test - Looks for leaking seals
4. Codes read (if check engine light is coming on) - identifies any glitching electrical components
5. General inspection of suspension, particularly the bushings.
6. Is there oil residue in the coolant?
7. Is the coolant in the oil
9. Blue, Black smoke or excess water vapour in the exhauist.
Having said all that, any price under US$20,000 you have limited downside risk, given the potential value as a parts car.
1. Compression test - ideally over 100 psi on all six faces, but if below that look to the psi to be close on all the faces
2. Smoke test - will show where there are ;leaks in the intake and vacuum hose systems
3. Coolant system pressure test - Looks for leaking seals
4. Codes read (if check engine light is coming on) - identifies any glitching electrical components
5. General inspection of suspension, particularly the bushings.
6. Is there oil residue in the coolant?
7. Is the coolant in the oil
9. Blue, Black smoke or excess water vapour in the exhauist.
Having said all that, any price under US$20,000 you have limited downside risk, given the potential value as a parts car.
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C S (04-27-24)
#12
If the seller will cooperate and there is a true rotary shop nearby,, have th ecar taken there for:
1. Compression test - ideally over 100 psi on all six faces, but if below that look to the psi to be close on all the faces
2. Smoke test - will show where there are ;leaks in the intake and vacuum hose systems
3. Coolant system pressure test - Looks for leaking seals
4. Codes read (if check engine light is coming on) - identifies any glitching electrical components
5. General inspection of suspension, particularly the bushings.
6. Is there oil residue in the coolant?
7. Is the coolant in the oil
9. Blue, Black smoke or excess water vapour in the exhauist.
Having said all that, any price under US$20,000 you have limited downside risk, given the potential value as a parts car.
1. Compression test - ideally over 100 psi on all six faces, but if below that look to the psi to be close on all the faces
2. Smoke test - will show where there are ;leaks in the intake and vacuum hose systems
3. Coolant system pressure test - Looks for leaking seals
4. Codes read (if check engine light is coming on) - identifies any glitching electrical components
5. General inspection of suspension, particularly the bushings.
6. Is there oil residue in the coolant?
7. Is the coolant in the oil
9. Blue, Black smoke or excess water vapour in the exhauist.
Having said all that, any price under US$20,000 you have limited downside risk, given the potential value as a parts car.
I was thinking that price range is safe.
#13
Rough guess? $200 if it just needs a fluid change. Worst case, $12,000 for a new engine to arrive at your door. Then, another $5,000 to $10,000 for miscellaneous expenses. A mouse? An engine harness costs $1,300 from Ray Crowe; you'll have to find the front harness used. I think people are asking if this is a joke because, without any pictures or data, it's like asking if my fat uncle will survive running a mile if he hasn't left the couch in 10 years—and how much the hospital bill will cost.
#16
Rough guess? $200 if it just needs a fluid change. Worst case, $12,000 for a new engine to arrive at your door. Then, another $5,000 to $10,000 for miscellaneous expenses. A mouse? An engine harness costs $1,300 from Ray Crowe; you'll have to find the front harness used. I think people are asking if this is a joke because, without any pictures or data, it's like asking if my fat uncle will survive running a mile if he hasn't left the couch in 10 years—and how much the hospital bill will cost.
#17
Beautiful car; it even has the original floor mats. Everything looks 99% stock; the only thing that is not stock is the wiring for what I'm assuming are aftermarket fog lights. This would be a perfect car to flip on 'Bring a Trailer.' It could fetch $55,000-$60,000 after you paint it and get it running well. There's one very similar to this listed right now for $68,888 (If the car was painted and running well): https://bringatrailer.com/mazda/rx-7-fd/?q=rx7+fd.
To give you perspective, this car in its current condition as it sits would easily sell for $20,000, and that's with it not running. Since it's been sitting for 5 years but is running, I'd say $25,000. Shells today alone go for $10,000-$12,000, and that's without a drivetrain or interior. I'd pay a maximum of $25,000 for this car if it were me, and that's without a compression test. It's an amazing car for someone who can fix it themselves.
Great find, and thanks for providing more info so we can help you.
Also note, the stock apex seals from the factory are known to blow out around the 70,000-80,000 mile mark on average. Depending on how well the car was taken care of, some report having gone above 100K on their engine. It really comes down to a compression test, but you lose your leverage with the seller if the numbers comes out great.
To give you perspective, this car in its current condition as it sits would easily sell for $20,000, and that's with it not running. Since it's been sitting for 5 years but is running, I'd say $25,000. Shells today alone go for $10,000-$12,000, and that's without a drivetrain or interior. I'd pay a maximum of $25,000 for this car if it were me, and that's without a compression test. It's an amazing car for someone who can fix it themselves.
Great find, and thanks for providing more info so we can help you.
Also note, the stock apex seals from the factory are known to blow out around the 70,000-80,000 mile mark on average. Depending on how well the car was taken care of, some report having gone above 100K on their engine. It really comes down to a compression test, but you lose your leverage with the seller if the numbers comes out great.
Last edited by CREEPENJEEPEN; 04-28-24 at 02:59 AM.
#18
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if it was detailed, and the major service done + tires, it would probably be fine for a while.
then its going to need all the other stuff an FD needs plus paint, which is 40k plus paint, lol
engine, harness, all the bushings in the rear, cooling system, clutch, metering lines, vacuum hoses, etc
the clamps on the intake are in the wrong place, so the hood insulation gets poked, and the left fender has been at least repainted
then its going to need all the other stuff an FD needs plus paint, which is 40k plus paint, lol
engine, harness, all the bushings in the rear, cooling system, clutch, metering lines, vacuum hoses, etc
the clamps on the intake are in the wrong place, so the hood insulation gets poked, and the left fender has been at least repainted
#19
Please check the gas tank before running and driving. They are metal inside and depending how they are stored can be completely rusted inside. You absolutely do not want to take the chance of blowing a good engine because the fuel pump strainer got clogged with rust causing a drop in fuel pressure.
There is a drain plug on the gas tank.
How's it smell on the inside? That white on the steering wheel could be mold.
There is a drain plug on the gas tank.
How's it smell on the inside? That white on the steering wheel could be mold.
#20
Seeing those pics, I highly doubt that car needs a paint job.
It has single stage paint, no clear coat. It can be polished out by a professional detailer and made to look new again. It would be a huge mistake to repaint it. The same detailer will also be able to restore the interior simply by cleaning it.
It has single stage paint, no clear coat. It can be polished out by a professional detailer and made to look new again. It would be a huge mistake to repaint it. The same detailer will also be able to restore the interior simply by cleaning it.
#21
Seeing those pics, I highly doubt that car needs a paint job.
It has single stage paint, no clear coat. It can be polished out by a professional detailer and made to look new again. It would be a huge mistake to repaint it. The same detailer will also be able to restore the interior simply by cleaning it.
It has single stage paint, no clear coat. It can be polished out by a professional detailer and made to look new again. It would be a huge mistake to repaint it. The same detailer will also be able to restore the interior simply by cleaning it.
#22
That's correct, a red '93 R1 would have had single stage paint. They switched to clear in later years, and you could also get the "high-reflex" paint (code NT on door jamb sticker) for '93s, but that was for Tourings only, I believe. VR '93 R1 should be single stage, and the paint code on the door jamb sticker should be NU.
It certainly looks like faded single stage in those pics. Clear coat tends to peel off in "sheets".
It certainly looks like faded single stage in those pics. Clear coat tends to peel off in "sheets".
Last edited by c0rbin9; 04-28-24 at 12:40 PM.
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C S (04-28-24)