SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

I've seen stuff like this first hand. It's most likely that your subframe is alright. You may just have to go ahead and replace the entire left rear suspension to be sure, including the wheel hub. Get the parts from Fritz. He's a good seller and you can get all that stuff relatively cheap (like 25% or less of the New Price IIRC).

For the Quarter Panel: Dent King and Bondo will do the job and it'll look like new while keeping things cheaper. I also agree with get a new clutch.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Right on, thanks for your input. But, uh, what is "Dent King"? *hopes it's not self-explanatory*

Man, you guys are full of great info... keep it coming!!!!!

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

1) Make sure the estimate is done at the body shop, with your body repairman present. That way he can make sure they don't underestimate the cost (paint, materials, and especially labor) when it comes to the repair estimate. 2) It is your RIGHT to have the vehicle repaired and not totalled, virtually up to a dollar less than the total value of the vehicle. I know, because I've done it 3 times, and twice of which were to the same vehicle lol. Repair costs weren't very high, but the car wasn't worth much. Of course, the agent will prefer to just call it a total loss. But you can insist on repairing it (as long as repair costs are indeed less than the car's value). If you get nowhere w/ an agent, speak to a Supervisor, and if necessary their Supervisor. On the first two occassions, I had no problems. On the third occassion, I had to speak to the regional supervisor, and made a formal complaint. I got a formal letter of apology, and the agent came to my house the very next morning to hand deliver the check

This is important, because when a vehicle is totalled, it will show up on the Carfax as having a salvage title. You don't want that. That will forever hurt your car's resale value. So I strongly suggest you do what it takes to get it repaired, NOT issued as a total loss. Don't budge.

Not exactly MSRP. They call up local dealerships and sometimes even junkyards to get quotes on parts. They have the right to use recycled/used parts in good condition, unless you specify otherwise. I'd highly suggesst you insist on them using only brand new parts.

That's the default situation, NOT a requirement. You have the right to request the check to be made to you. In fact, you have the right to get the check and NEVER repair the vehicle if you so choose. It's your RIGHT. So insist on having the check made out to you, then buy up the parts from the forum, and any new parts you'd get from Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda for about half the price of other stealerships, and hopefully your bodyshop guy will hook you up, so that check will go a LOT further. Maybe even take care of a few additional exterior issues you may have

~Ramy

Mr. Stock

The problem is not "overcorrection" .
It is the lack of steering input afterwards which causes the car to swing in the opposite direction.

In driver ed, we are all taught to "steer into a skid". This is correct. However, they did not tell us that there is more to than just steering into a skid to control it.

Once the the steering wheel is turned in the direction the rear end is skidding in, and, if the correction is enough, the rear end will start to slow its direction of travel and then stop(this is called "pause"). Then, it will start to swing back in the other direction. At the point of pause, the steering wheel has to be unwound to take out the steering correction. If this is not done, the momentum of the rear end as it swings back cause it to snap into oversteer in the other direction.

This takes practice to learn.

Unfortunately, most drivers do not have the knowledge or the skill to control oversteer.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Mr. Stock, thanks for that info. I wasn't aware of that. Good stuff.

I still think letting go of the steering wheel for a second, allowing it to recenter itself, is the golden rule. I've seen professionals use it, and I use it every single time, and it never fails. And I'm inducing the car to skid too...

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I learned the behavior after getting my FD. A pile of road cinders at the apex of the corner, combined with me horsing it around at about the limit put me in the skid. Unfortunately, I knew what to do, but I didn't do it anywhere near fast enough. (All my past experience skidding/oversteering was with FWD cars on snowy roads - a whole different thing).

Dave

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Alright guys, the insurance adjuster just called me back with his damage estimate. Left = driver's side:

-replace left rear quarter panel
-resurface/reputty (?) left rear quarter panel
-repaint/clearcoat BOTH rear quarter panels and roof
-blend colors on rear quarters/roof
-replace rear left knuckle/hub
-replace rear left lower control arm
-recondition left rear wheel
-four wheel alignment
* no frame damage (forgot to ask if they had it on an frame alignment machine)
** if the alignment doesn't work out properly, or if the body shop determines that there are additional parts that need to be replaced, the insurance company will oblige.
total = $3619.70 - $500.00 (deductible) = $3119.70

They are making the check out to me. I pay the body shop directly.

EDIT: I'll be going to th ebody shop tomorrow to get the detailed repari quote. I'll update with parts prices when I have it.

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

Aside from the paint stuff, you can def get this done for cheaper and maybe have some cash to blow.

I personally don't really think it's worth replacing the whole quarter panel. Just try and smooth out the dents and then a little bondo. Buy the parts used and I'd say you're good to go.

Rx Seven

iTrader: (12)

Now its time for you to start inquiring about the parts on your list from the people mentioned in the threads. If you do the leg work in finding the parts you can defiantly get it done cheaper.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Quarter panel = salvageable? Don't know. Ask TurboJeff. He's the man you wanna talk to. But really in the end, it comes down to if your body man knows how to properly repair it vs replace it. You want the shop to do what they do best, not try something they're not skilled in.

Re: painting...it's in your favor. If your body man is GOOD, he can blend that quarter panel before it hits the roof. It's definitely doable. The prob is, can he blend it w/ the door and rear bumper?

Oh and with all due respect to SiKoPaThX, if your body shop even SAYS the word Bondo, my suggesstion is, RUN. FAR. Don't EVER let someone put bondo crap on your car. That stuff is a cheap fix used by low end bodyshops. Any good body repairman will have metal glaze, that actually bonds to the sheet metal. It'll never flake, bubble, sag, crack, etc, like bondo does. Do this once, and do it right, or you'll be paying to have this piece painted AGAIN in the near future.

~Ramy

PS: Don't be stuck on one body shop. Check the regional forum for where you live (I'm guessing San Bernardino's in Cali). There are prob a ton of very qualified body shops experienced in FD's in Cali. Shop around, find someone who a) is confident he can do an excellent job, b) has done this before on an FD, c) doesn't use bondo, and d) gives you a good price (in that order too hehe).

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

^You're right. I didn't exactly mean bondo per se. Just meant to smoothe out the fender and fill the small dents rather than have to cut and weld replace it.