Well, I knew it was too good to be true. At least it happened in front of my house.

I was just coming out of my apartment complex onto a main road, and prepared to give the car some gas. The clutch on my car is super grabby (Racing Beat's sport/race 6 puck disc..... it's not my first choice of clutch hardware, but it came like this when I bought it), so it's pretty easy to bog unless you launch about 2k+ RPM. I'm still getting used to the thing.

Well, I as I took off to make a left hand turn, my tail starts to come around (counterclockwise). I'm still a bit on the gas and countersteer. The car was stable... for an instant. Then the tail swung the other way (clockwise). Got off the gas and tried to brake hard... SLAM! My rear driver's side wheel hits the curb, and I'm across the street facing the wrong direction.

Frazzled, I limp the car back across the street and into my garage in my complex. See attached pics for details. No one was hurt and I may have taken a few chunks of concrete out of the curb I hit. The tires are stock size on stock rims (225/50/16), although they are pretty shitty and worn (brand: "General"... never heard of them).

I know I'm going to get my fair share of "learn how to drive, idiot!" comments, and I deserve them. I'm 26 years old, and a pretty conservative driver--so I'm not some crazy kid trying to push things.

Anyway, what do you guys think it's going to take to fix this thing? The rear quarterpanel is f*cked, and I'm reallly concerned with suspension components associated with that wheel. Do you think the frame would be affected?

 

Whatever you end up doing, make sure to budget for a new clutch.

Surely the quarter panel needs replaced, and all the suspension components need replaced.
[edit: I meant to say all the suspension components need carefully inspected]

Fortunately, they aren't too hard to find used, and replacing the bushings probably needed done anyway.

Of course, the real worry is that the frame in that area was deformed.

Dave

 

damn!! sorry to hear about that I guess a good way to check if anything is fubar'd is to get under her..... hope it's not serious

 

You'll need a wheel, toe control link, lower control arm and likely a upright (piece that all the arms bolt to and that holds the wheel.

If you got lucky your subframe will be usable, if not then you'll have to get a new one. The 1/4 panel is repairable I think. The "frame" (unibody cars have no frame but they do have welded in "frame rails") is OK most likely.

If you have full coverage insurance it is probably easily a $4k job.

 

Ditto to what everyone says about the quarter panel. A good experience body shop can replace one and you'd never know the car didn't come that way from the factory.

The rear subframe is pretty stout, but if is bent it will need to be replaced. As on long as the unibody isn't damaged where the subframe attaches, it would be a matter of replacing components and then you're back in business after an alignment. But be prepared for sticker shock if you need to buy a new subframe.

BTW, it's called trailing throttle oversteer. You were in a power oversteer and by lifting off the gas you effectively stomped on the brakes to induce weight transfer-berfore you stood on it. I know because I've been there, done that.

 

Sorry to hear what happened. I don't think it's your clutch...you got on the gas too hard, and boosted in the turn. Then you overcorrected - which is why I keep telling ppl DO NOT TRY AND CORRECT when you lose it in an FD. You're more likely to overcorrect and swing the end the other direction, than you are to correct accurately (just enough) to regain control. Try letting go of the steering wheel for a second, and let the wheel recenter itself. Also, never hit the brake. Brake will send you in the direction you're NOT trying to go in. And don't stay on the gas either. You wanna ease off the gas and let the car regain traction on it's own. It's a very simple and easy to master maneuver that every FD owner MUST learn IMO. Not that you're a crazy driver; you're just inexperienced and were behind the wheel of a car that's a LOT to handle even in experienced hands.

Good luck getting her repaired, and try reading up some on some of the tips other guys give. It takes a LOT to learn how to drive an FD safetly.

~Ramy

 

Unfortunatly, i think you did some damage to the suspension deffinently. If you look, the tire is pushed towards the front of the car more also. I doubt the frame was touched, try to shut the passenger door, make sure it shuts flush. or how it used to. Good luck man, that sucks.

 

Thanks for the comments, everyone. You know, I saw a shirt once that said, "lift throttle oversteer kills". I'll tell you that driving this car is such a blast... it's just too bad it's so twitchy in the wrong hands.

So what do you think about the anti-symmetry of replacing one wheel/suspension components? Isn't it bad practice to just do one wheel? I would think that, at the very least, the other rear wheel/tire should have the same components replaced--including the tires.

Also, do you know what the procedure is to have other work that is not necissarily related to the accident done? I want to replace some of the weatherstipping and take care of some other paint chips... I think it would make a lot more sense just to paint the whole car. I'm kind of unsure about paint matching.

My insurance company is going to have the car looked at sometime this week, to get a repair estimate. I'll keep ya updated.

 

here is a pic of dam done to my car when it was jack-knifed on a trailer during ship to me



there was no damage hortizontally to the suspension, but vertically the shock was toast. it doesnt look like much but the body shop replaced the whole quarter panel back from the door becuase they said there was no way manualy to replicate the shape of the metal again. i'd recommend the same for you. all in all it was about $5500 in total, i only paid my deductible of course.

 

The only parts you could really make an arguement about replacing the opposite side componets would be the tire and shock. I doubt that shock was damaged anyway.

The rest of the parts either work or they don't, control arms and toe links have bushings, if the bushings are worn replace them. If they aren't worn you won't have any problems.

 

Jeez, $5500? The blue book value on my car is about $12k retail/ $9k private party. I know it varies from insucance company to insurance company, but isn't the cutoff for "total loss" somewhere around 1/2 of the vehicle's blue book retail value? Sorry to see your car get messed up when it wasn't even your fault. At least your wheel looks better than mine

 

It thinks it like 80%.

 

I see. So you think it's appropriate to ask them to replace the driver's side bushings... but NOT the passenger side's (just the rear)? The car has orignial suspension components, and last time I looked, quite a few of the bushings were cracked/worn. I imagine the pass side shock is fine. Thanks for your input.

 

sorry to see that. if by chance you end up needing a subframe or quarter panel, i have them both.

 

Sorry to hear about the accident but the good news is I have parts hehe

 

Thought it would be fun to see how damn expensive FD parts can be. My source is http://www.mazdapartscheap.com/

part MSRP discount
wheel 701.65 610.44
center cap 43.1 37.5
left rear 1/4 panel 571.9 497.55
side spoiler 136.95 119.15
suspension cross member 1400.95 1218.83
rear lower arm 704.2 612.65
rear upper arm 556.1 483.81
toe control 382.2 332.51

total 4497.05 3912.44

Holy hell that's a lot of money!

 

Yeah it can add up quickly. Add in some labor and it is easy to see why it is easy to total a FD.

Luckily rear suspension parts are relatively easy to find used. You could probably get everything you need for under $1000.

 

get a rubber mallet. replacing that rear fender is not worth it if your paying out of your pocket.

 

turbojeff, thanks for the info. I have a few people who have suspsension stuff they want to sell. My question is what to do about the insurance/adjuster... When they evaluate the condition of the car, they'll come up with an estimate of the total repari costs.... and based on that determine whether or not it's "financially reasonable" to repair the car.

If not, they'll "total" it. If so, they'll fix it less my deductible. Do they take MSRP for the parts prices when they do such an estimation? Also, my insurance company pays the auto repair facility directly (and I pay my deductible to the repair facility). In this case, I wouldn't be able to benefit by buying the less expensive replacement parts that others are offering me, since the body/repair shop has their own parts source.... I'd have to ask the insurance company if I could supply th eparts.

Man, I'm so bummed. I love this car.

 

I agree.

 

Sorry to hear about your accident. But does your insurance company allows you to choose which body shop will do the repairs? If so I think you could possible work out a deal with a body shop to let you supply your own parts, that is if they really want your business. My insurance does their own estimate but they also except estimates from other body shots then they make a dissuasion. It might be worth it to see if you can get a couple other estimates from different shops and make a deal.

 

Yeah, they do give me a choice... although they recommend some shops (and also have a "lifetiime warrenty" with their work). I can pick any shop I want though. The only shitty thing is that I have to have the car towed to get it around. I'll check it out. Thanks a lot for the info

 

Take the cash and fix the car yourself, at least the suspension part of it. If they won't let you do that then supply the bodyshop with the used parts. The insurance company doesn't need to know how you get it fixed, it is your business.

If it is totalled then you can buy it back and have it fixed or fix it yourself.

 

The insurance company shouldn't total that car based on the damage that is visible. A good bodyshop can repair that quarter panel. The only concern is if the uniside frame is damaged. This is basically the frame around the door that the roof, quarterpanel, and rocker panel is welded to, and the door bolts to. It cost about $600 (that's a discounted rate - not retail) new from Mazda.

If it is damaged, you could probably call Paul @ Mazmart and have him cut that section out for you. That would be a lot cheaper and probably stronger considering the bodyshop will probably weld seams vs. the spot welds that the factory uses. Paul will probably have the suspension components that you will need as well.

Joe

 

Also if they let you pick your own Body shop. Get a quote saying how much it would cost if they did all of the repairs including parts (do this for all the shops you get a quote from) but mention to the shop that you might be able to supply your own parts. Then when your insurance works out a total for the damages tell them that you are in the process of getting it fixed at one of the body shops, They will sometimes then ask you if you want them to send a check to the body shop or you...hopefully.

Accidents suck but sometime they lead to greater and better thing, by supplying your own parts you can get it repaired much cheaper. Just use the references that people have left above. Also why replace high price OEM equipment when you can get aftermarket performance goodies . If you supply what you want I doubt the body shop would complain about them installing it and it just means more money for them

Good Luck!