Factory Paint
11-20-03, 01:16 PM
#28
The guys at the body shop where my car is being repaired told me it was clearcoated. I am supposed to pick it up this afternoon. I will ask them again to be sure, and make a post with the info.
My left front was scraped while parked. It's been in the shop for 10 days. Hopefully, it will be done today.
My left front was scraped while parked. It's been in the shop for 10 days. Hopefully, it will be done today.
11-20-03, 01:24 PM
#29
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by adam c
The guys at the body shop where my car is being repaired told me it was clearcoated. I am supposed to pick it up this afternoon. I will ask them again to be sure, and make a post with the info.
The guys at the body shop where my car is being repaired told me it was clearcoated. I am supposed to pick it up this afternoon. I will ask them again to be sure, and make a post with the info.
The easiest way to find out is to use a lightly abrasive cleaner on a clean rag. Test in an inconspicuous area, and rub the paint. In your case, a dark rag would be required. If some white comes off on the rag, you have no clearcoat. If nothing comes off, you do, or you're not rubbing hard enough.
11-21-03, 05:04 AM
#30
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by rynberg
Manny, the prices I've been quoted for a first-class paint job (same color, all dents repaired, etc) range from $7000-10,000 in the Bay Area. In midwest dollars, that's probably about $4-7k.
A "good" quality paint job is probably about 2/3 of that. Anything less is NOT a good quality job, I don't care what anyone says (assuming there's no connections and you aren't doing some of the prep yourself).
Manny, the prices I've been quoted for a first-class paint job (same color, all dents repaired, etc) range from $7000-10,000 in the Bay Area. In midwest dollars, that's probably about $4-7k.
A "good" quality paint job is probably about 2/3 of that. Anything less is NOT a good quality job, I don't care what anyone says (assuming there's no connections and you aren't doing some of the prep yourself).
Last edited by SleepR1; 11-21-03 at 05:06 AM.
11-22-03, 06:15 AM
#31
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My mistake. Touring models were painted with a Hi-Relfex painting technology. I thought this meant they were clear coated. Actually it seems that the Hi-reflex painting technology (a Mazda invention) involves rotating the body while baking the paint in a drying oven. This process permitted thicker coats of paint to be used without runs or drips and provided a glossier finish than conventional painting processes.
This technique was applied to the touring models only. I assume that the R1 and R2 didn't get it because, contrary to popular belief, the touring model was the top of the line (no disrespect intended).
This technique was applied to the touring models only. I assume that the R1 and R2 didn't get it because, contrary to popular belief, the touring model was the top of the line (no disrespect intended).
12-12-03, 01:13 AM
#33
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Originally posted by fd3s_rx7
I think in long term you should paint your car because RX7 has issue on their paint!!
I think in long term you should paint your car because RX7 has issue on their paint!!
I'd rather have a car with good original paint than one that has been repainted, unless it was a first class job $6k+
12-12-03, 02:17 AM
#35
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I have a 92 R1 in Vintage Red (NU)
and it is NOT clearcoated
i had it freshly repainted (from head to toe)
and i asked for grinding away the rock shield
the body shop asked me if i wanted it clearcoated or not but i said NO, 'cause i had bad experiences in the past with clear paint peeling off
also had the rims painted
spent more or less €2000
and it is NOT clearcoated
i had it freshly repainted (from head to toe)
and i asked for grinding away the rock shield
the body shop asked me if i wanted it clearcoated or not but i said NO, 'cause i had bad experiences in the past with clear paint peeling off
also had the rims painted
spent more or less €2000
12-12-03, 08:54 AM
#38
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That looks really clean and very nice. I'm jealous now. Hopefully I can get my car painted in spring or summer. I plan on going with titanium gray 25g.
12-12-03, 12:15 PM
#39
Originally posted by adam c
Thats highly unlikely since the bodies are all the same, except for sunroofs.
Thats highly unlikely since the bodies are all the same, except for sunroofs.
R1 and Base models in solid colors were NOT clearcoated. MB, Silver and CYM are clearcoated.
The mirrors for Tourings in solid colors were not clearcoated. VR Touring is acutally a different color than a VR R1 or Base.
I know that in 94 the same clearcoat rule follows, only Tourings are clearcoated. I had a black 95 that wasn't clearcoated either.
Jeff
working on FD #16
12-12-03, 12:26 PM
#40
Originally posted by adam c
The guys at the body shop where my car is being repaired told me it was clearcoated. I am supposed to pick it up this afternoon. I will ask them again to be sure, and make a post with the info.
My left front was scraped while parked. It's been in the shop for 10 days. Hopefully, it will be done today.
The guys at the body shop where my car is being repaired told me it was clearcoated. I am supposed to pick it up this afternoon. I will ask them again to be sure, and make a post with the info.
My left front was scraped while parked. It's been in the shop for 10 days. Hopefully, it will be done today.
12-12-03, 01:28 PM
#41
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I can vouche for the hi-reflex paint, as I have that option on my car. It is very glossy, and my paint seems to have held up better than most others. The only bad part is that the spoiler and mirrors don't have the hi-reflex treatment (nor do they have a clearcoat), and you can tell now, the mirrors especially look noticeably worse than the rest of the car.
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