EXTREMELY UNSATISFIED WITH MY REBUILD. (long)
if he street ported your exhaust ports and raised the roof too high you could be pulling in alot of fuel into the exhaust. when the intake and exhaust ports overlap. the car would lack power until very high rpms. bad idle also. you got screwed on the price!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but is seems as though you are pushing way too much fuel. who is this person that rebuilt your engine?
Yeah a ported motor can run just fine on the stock ECU. Doesn't sound like a massive port, just a street port.
I've personally installed a stock ECU on a ported motor with a perfectly acceptable idle.
Jeff
I've personally installed a stock ECU on a ported motor with a perfectly acceptable idle.
Jeff
Originally posted by Tim Benton
O2 sensor....change it and see what happens. It's a $45 dollar part at www.oxygensensors.com. Mine went bad and had voltages in the 2.xx range so the pfc in O2 feedlack/lean run mode would dial out as much fuel as it could, then as it would stall, would add fuel, back and forth. not sure if the PFC kicks out error codes since mine didn't with the O2 bad.
Tim
O2 sensor....change it and see what happens. It's a $45 dollar part at www.oxygensensors.com. Mine went bad and had voltages in the 2.xx range so the pfc in O2 feedlack/lean run mode would dial out as much fuel as it could, then as it would stall, would add fuel, back and forth. not sure if the PFC kicks out error codes since mine didn't with the O2 bad.
Tim
Why can't the mechanic who charged you all that money troubleshoot your issue?
Originally posted by johnchabin
I agree. A bad O2 sensor could explain your problem.
I agree. A bad O2 sensor could explain your problem.
Originally posted by Stevey629
So here I am, with the cars idle set at 1500-1700 via throttle cable adjustment, otherwise it stalls, and it runs really really rough. I know there are arguments of whether or not to run the car hard or baby it when its breaking itself in, but at any rate, since its running so poorly I figured to stay below 4k to be safe. It clears up a tiny bit from 3-4, but its still rough. Feels like it sputters or has severe hesitation throughout the RPM range of 1500 on up to 4000. Why is it running so rough?
So here I am, with the cars idle set at 1500-1700 via throttle cable adjustment, otherwise it stalls, and it runs really really rough. I know there are arguments of whether or not to run the car hard or baby it when its breaking itself in, but at any rate, since its running so poorly I figured to stay below 4k to be safe. It clears up a tiny bit from 3-4, but its still rough. Feels like it sputters or has severe hesitation throughout the RPM range of 1500 on up to 4000. Why is it running so rough?
His plugs are probably fouled at this point as well...
It's not the O2 sensor. I'll put money on it.
Also if you go up on the exhaust port to the point of the sleeve, the motor will still run acceptable. I've done it on a NA engine.
-Jeff
Also if you go up on the exhaust port to the point of the sleeve, the motor will still run acceptable. I've done it on a NA engine.
-Jeff
sorry about the figures, I guesstimated them a little too high.
well, the rebuild itself was 3050, and the removal and install labor was just over 1700. sorry my figures were wrong, I just blew it outta proportion being angry and hasty with my math after just getting home from a rough drive which was not worth what it felt like I spended. At any rate, however, I havent managed to get a chance to check out my MAP sensor. Sounds like that may be the problem, along with possible leaking injectors. Does anyone have a picture or link to a page that has a picture of the map sensor, and where the lines are supposed to be properly hooked up? I'm assuming this is a DYI kinda thing, its just that Im freaked out about tinkering with my motor after all the trouble its giving me. I guess a "ROTARY for DIPSHITS" explaination is in order. My avatar says it all. But I gotta man up and try sometime. Just gotta grow some steel ballz like some of you guys on here. My mech fouled out a set of plugs before, when he was trying to start the motor, just due to flooding it I think. So he replaced them with another set, but maybe they might already be fouled out as well. Sorry for being such a newbie to this, but I am really tempermental with my motor and investment, and dont want to risk ANYTHING. Sincere appreciation to all the great replies and so quickly. You guys have no idea how in the dark I was about this, and how helpless I felt. Hopefully this clears itself up soon, and once it does, I'll be ABSOLUTELY sure to let you guys know! BTW, Im gonna try to get some pictures of that flamed back bumper.
OH,
and suggestions on how I can wein this guy into payin for it would help too. He just warrants the work on the car, not the way the motor was built. He just seems to think that the motor would blow flames, and as result burn my bumper. Wack.
Ill keep you guys posted on my progress, again, keep 'em commin if you can, Ill see if I can build up enough confidence to do what you guys are doin'.
well, the rebuild itself was 3050, and the removal and install labor was just over 1700. sorry my figures were wrong, I just blew it outta proportion being angry and hasty with my math after just getting home from a rough drive which was not worth what it felt like I spended. At any rate, however, I havent managed to get a chance to check out my MAP sensor. Sounds like that may be the problem, along with possible leaking injectors. Does anyone have a picture or link to a page that has a picture of the map sensor, and where the lines are supposed to be properly hooked up? I'm assuming this is a DYI kinda thing, its just that Im freaked out about tinkering with my motor after all the trouble its giving me. I guess a "ROTARY for DIPSHITS" explaination is in order. My avatar says it all. But I gotta man up and try sometime. Just gotta grow some steel ballz like some of you guys on here. My mech fouled out a set of plugs before, when he was trying to start the motor, just due to flooding it I think. So he replaced them with another set, but maybe they might already be fouled out as well. Sorry for being such a newbie to this, but I am really tempermental with my motor and investment, and dont want to risk ANYTHING. Sincere appreciation to all the great replies and so quickly. You guys have no idea how in the dark I was about this, and how helpless I felt. Hopefully this clears itself up soon, and once it does, I'll be ABSOLUTELY sure to let you guys know! BTW, Im gonna try to get some pictures of that flamed back bumper.
OH,
and suggestions on how I can wein this guy into payin for it would help too. He just warrants the work on the car, not the way the motor was built. He just seems to think that the motor would blow flames, and as result burn my bumper. Wack.
Ill keep you guys posted on my progress, again, keep 'em commin if you can, Ill see if I can build up enough confidence to do what you guys are doin'.
Originally posted by johnchabin
Yeah, I guess he did say he is getting gas mileage of less than 3 mpg. A bad O2 sensor shouldn't cause him to consume THAT much fuel...
Yeah, I guess he did say he is getting gas mileage of less than 3 mpg. A bad O2 sensor shouldn't cause him to consume THAT much fuel...
ya, Im positive they are the same injectors. They were cleaned and tuned up by RC engineering, and a little chart got sent along with them, showing their flow rates and all that good stuff.
Stock primary injectors flow less than stock secondaries(550 vs 850 cc/min). If they were reversed during installation, that would cause more fuel to be injected at idle because the ecu only controls the injector duty cycle. You're getting roughly 50% more fuel(850/550=1.54) at idle when only primary injectors are working. At idle, ECU runs open loop(no feedback from O2 sensor used to adjust fuel mixture) so that leads me to believe it's not an O2 sensor problem. If the combustion chamber is being flooded as the car sits, then you have a leaky injector seal. Check to see if your fuel pressure drops when the car is shut down. As other people have mentioned before, the first thing I would do is to take out the injectors, check the seals, and install them in the right location. Primary injectors are longer than the secondaries so they are easily distinguishable.
WoW, there are some crazy "ideas" in this thread.
Here is the problem, it could be sooooo many things. I could shoot out a list of stuff that you dont know how to check or where its at and you'd be lost. Personally I'd take it back to the mechanic, he made $1700 to install the engine so it needs to be right.
If you want to look yourself here is what I'd suspect first. Fuel rail temp sensor, air temp sensor, map sensor, TPS, coils hooked up backwards, plug wires hooked up backwards (mixing leading and trailing). If you find something wrong with any of those then fix it, change your plugs and try to fire it back up. If all those are fine then start troubleshooting harder things like proper installation of injectors, ect ect ect.
I also seriously doubt its your engine or ecu. I think its a problem with the installation
STEPHEN
Here is the problem, it could be sooooo many things. I could shoot out a list of stuff that you dont know how to check or where its at and you'd be lost. Personally I'd take it back to the mechanic, he made $1700 to install the engine so it needs to be right.
If you want to look yourself here is what I'd suspect first. Fuel rail temp sensor, air temp sensor, map sensor, TPS, coils hooked up backwards, plug wires hooked up backwards (mixing leading and trailing). If you find something wrong with any of those then fix it, change your plugs and try to fire it back up. If all those are fine then start troubleshooting harder things like proper installation of injectors, ect ect ect.
I also seriously doubt its your engine or ecu. I think its a problem with the installation
STEPHEN
Does anyone have write ups on how to check to see whether or not these things are in good and working conditon? I dont know where to start. And like I said, Im a bit hesitant to start tearing things apart. i know a lot can be found out if the manifold is removed, as u can get access to a lot of the vacuum lines, and perhaps more importantly from what sounds to be the problem, the fuel related issues that Im having.
Since it doesn't seem like your mechanic is helping you, I hope you cancel the credit card payment for the labor. It's ridiculous. Any mechanic with any pride in their work would be tearing over your car to find what they did wrong--at no charge to you.
My advice to you at this point is to get the car towed to a GOOD rotary mechanic near you and to cancel the CC charge for the current mechanic.
My advice to you at this point is to get the car towed to a GOOD rotary mechanic near you and to cancel the CC charge for the current mechanic.
ok, first off, if i had an injector leak, wouldnt i be getting fires under the hood? actual fires....and secondly, isnt it impossible to switch the fuel injectors around? the primary injector is top feed, and the secondary is side feed, so how is that even possible to install them the wrong way? Im comming to believe that it may be coils going bad. Are the symptoms that Im having similar to something of a coil(s) going bad?
Last edited by RX7 RAGE; Sep 15, 2003 at 12:55 AM.
All of the injectors are side-feed and look quite similar. They are slightly different, but people put 850s in the primary spots on purpose, so it can be done.
It sounds like you might have some kind of fuel leak that blows fuel into the engine. Perhaps an injector stuck open, or a bad injector install, or the injectors are in the wrong place.
You may have some kind of ignition problem, too. Look for sites that show the routing of the spark plug wires and make sure the leading and trailing wires are going to the right plugs. The leading plugs fire at the same time, so it wouldn't matter if the leading wires were swapped, however.
Your mechanic should be doing this for you.
-Max
It sounds like you might have some kind of fuel leak that blows fuel into the engine. Perhaps an injector stuck open, or a bad injector install, or the injectors are in the wrong place.
You may have some kind of ignition problem, too. Look for sites that show the routing of the spark plug wires and make sure the leading and trailing wires are going to the right plugs. The leading plugs fire at the same time, so it wouldn't matter if the leading wires were swapped, however.
Your mechanic should be doing this for you.
-Max
Re: EXTREMELY UNSATISFIED WITH MY REBUILD. (long)
Originally posted by radkins
FWIW, I paid $5K including install and a Pineapple Stage 3 racerported motor.
FWIW, I paid $5K including install and a Pineapple Stage 3 racerported motor.
Originally posted by Stevey629
I had the motor rebuilt with a 2nd stage street port, cryo'd the rotor housings and all the seals
I had the motor rebuilt with a 2nd stage street port, cryo'd the rotor housings and all the seals
Also, Where did you get the work done? Autotech?
If anyone's feeling extra helpful, they can take a look at what problems I'm having with my new engine: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=223844
(didn't wanna hijack the thread!)
Last edited by Chronos; Sep 15, 2003 at 04:24 AM.
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