Experiences with Rywire engine harness
#1
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
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Experiences with Rywire engine harness
For those running the Rywire engine harness, what has your experience been? How have you liked the quality and 'reliability' of the harness? Plug in and work with no issues?
thanks guys
thanks guys
#2
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Garbage.
I don't/wouldn't personally run one, but my friend with a Civic had one and had to go through and solder each crimp on the terminals to make it work.
Last summer a customer of friends' shop got Rhywire harness for engine swap in his Prelude and it didn't run right. After weeks of ignoring my Civic friend calling the Rhywire harness out as the cause-
Checked the harness connections and none of the connectors were even crimped. Just heatshrunk the wires to the terminals to keep them from falling off.
I would say it is either the case that Rhywire has moved their harness manufacture to piecemeal work where people get paid by the # pieces made in 3rd world nations (or states- LOL) or there are knockoff companies taking advantage of the Rhywire name to make inferior but similar looking products.
Either way, I wouldn't take the chance unless I knew the owner and he was going to make my harness personally.
I don't/wouldn't personally run one, but my friend with a Civic had one and had to go through and solder each crimp on the terminals to make it work.
Last summer a customer of friends' shop got Rhywire harness for engine swap in his Prelude and it didn't run right. After weeks of ignoring my Civic friend calling the Rhywire harness out as the cause-
Checked the harness connections and none of the connectors were even crimped. Just heatshrunk the wires to the terminals to keep them from falling off.
I would say it is either the case that Rhywire has moved their harness manufacture to piecemeal work where people get paid by the # pieces made in 3rd world nations (or states- LOL) or there are knockoff companies taking advantage of the Rhywire name to make inferior but similar looking products.
Either way, I wouldn't take the chance unless I knew the owner and he was going to make my harness personally.
#4
Full Member
iTrader: (6)
i have one and its great. all the connections were solid and wrapped nice. all the wires were to the required length and they were great to work with. when I ordered I had asked for a couple extra things wired in and they had no issues doing it for me. at the time I was running injectors that needed resistors and instead of wiring in each resistor they wired the whole loom for a resistor box. now that im not running those injectors I only had to put a dummy plug in and it works great. I would recommend them to anyone.
#5
In Surgery
iTrader: (17)
If you have the patience for it I would say build your own. To make a new harness for my Adaptronic Plug and play I bought a wire bundle from DIYautotune and all new connectors from other vendors. I'm about $200 in with parts and know everything will be quality and if it isn't then I know exactly who to blame. Best part is you can route the wires exactly as you desire. In my case the coil triggers will run through my engine harness and my injectors will have a separate sub harness that can be changed if I ever swap injectors. I have the harness drawn out in CAD and tables for the connectors/pins if your'e interested.
#6
Rich, gimme a ring ...
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SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
#7
Looked into them dont make plug and play for after market ecu's, and got the impression to look else where, with the lack of customer service, seems like their mostly in to honda's.
Last edited by jayred_fd3g; 05-20-15 at 03:41 AM.
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#9
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.
Dale
#10
In Surgery
iTrader: (17)
People always talk about doing this, but really it's like 4-5 connectors by the ECU and push the wiring through the firewall. When I pull an engine that's like 2 minutes of the whole process.
IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.
Dale
IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.
Dale
I don't want to thread jack here Rich but since it was requested I'll provide it here. Here are my tables for the connectors. This is for my setup so if anyone is to use this be sure to check and manipulate each item for their connector, routing, and wire colors. There also may be a mistake in there somewhere so use at your own risk. I have this in PDF as well if requested but I cannot post it here.
#14
Tenseiga
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People always talk about doing this, but really it's like 4-5 connectors by the ECU and push the wiring through the firewall. When I pull an engine that's like 2 minutes of the whole process.
IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.
Dale
IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.
Dale
I have done the amp/milspec connectors and you just don't have the space nor is it practical for the engine (use them for inter-car connections off ECU's).
I don't like to chop the firewall for a bulk head either and it's right behind the ABS module which I've cursed many times.
Hard to beat the OEM rubber boot if done correctly as it offers a lot of strain relief.
If you are going to make a sub harness I would say do it for the transmission.
I personally have spent a small fortune on making harness (between crimps/strippers/connectors/wire).
I honestly like making my own and I also know the quality of materials and construction.
Each time I change engine configs/ECU's I make a new one from scratch and each time it improves (and can sell the ECU easier).
Pure and simple is by far the best.
Also plan for the future - I've often had to redo a harness because I changed/add pressure sensors (recommend sub harness for engine side AI's).
#15
Lives on the Forum
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I should be able to let you know in a couple days when I get the car started, but so far I've powered it up, and all the readings seem to read, and it ran the fuel pump. Seemed to be perfectly well made, and the wires were in the right place/length.
For the IAC (which I assume is the BAC that Jacob refers to) the wires were there, you need to add a used connector (nobody can find the original new). The only thing I think it could have is the fuel purge solonoid... I'm going to try it without, but my understanding of how that thing works would make it simple to rig up separately.
I used the factory donut at the firewall, plus a lower radiator rubber foot I had laying around to fill the gap since it's a smaller diameter than the OEM harness.
For the IAC (which I assume is the BAC that Jacob refers to) the wires were there, you need to add a used connector (nobody can find the original new). The only thing I think it could have is the fuel purge solonoid... I'm going to try it without, but my understanding of how that thing works would make it simple to rig up separately.
I used the factory donut at the firewall, plus a lower radiator rubber foot I had laying around to fill the gap since it's a smaller diameter than the OEM harness.
#17
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Ive had mine in the car for about 2 years. I had one small issue with it losing rpm signal but I fixed that by ensuring that the ecu pins were seated properly. Works as advertised, I would recommend it.
#19
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it is. one side gets the same black/white wire that powers the solenoids and the BAC, and then the other wire just goes right to the ECU
#21
FD** Fire Disaster
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I've had a great experience Rywire.
I received my harness 9 days after placing my order, only modification I had requested was to change the IAT sensor plug to the fast reacting sensor. The length of all the sensors were spot on, perfect length to where each connector/ground needed to go, no stretching, no excessive slack. I swapped out my factory harness that had no issues, other than being old/brittle and was single turbo so I had no need for the extra connectors and wiring. All sensors read properly first time after plug in, and the car started up first time without issues. Still running great 2 years later.
I do wish it came with a firewall grommet, but I ended up slicing up one off of an old hacked up harness and swapping it onto the Rywire.
I received my harness 9 days after placing my order, only modification I had requested was to change the IAT sensor plug to the fast reacting sensor. The length of all the sensors were spot on, perfect length to where each connector/ground needed to go, no stretching, no excessive slack. I swapped out my factory harness that had no issues, other than being old/brittle and was single turbo so I had no need for the extra connectors and wiring. All sensors read properly first time after plug in, and the car started up first time without issues. Still running great 2 years later.
I do wish it came with a firewall grommet, but I ended up slicing up one off of an old hacked up harness and swapping it onto the Rywire.
#22
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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To follow up on this thread, I had been having some issues with my FD and was looking at the harness as a possible culprit. Seems the fuel injectors were the faulty part(s), they've since been replaced and the car is running like a boss
#24
Please provide a bit more info to back this up.
I installed one of these and it's 100% not telephone wire. Perhaps you can post a picture of the Rywire Harness you have in your hands right now and point out anything that supports your claim.