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Experiences with Rywire engine harness

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Old 05-18-15, 11:36 AM
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Question Experiences with Rywire engine harness

For those running the Rywire engine harness, what has your experience been? How have you liked the quality and 'reliability' of the harness? Plug in and work with no issues?

thanks guys
Old 05-18-15, 02:59 PM
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Garbage.

I don't/wouldn't personally run one, but my friend with a Civic had one and had to go through and solder each crimp on the terminals to make it work.

Last summer a customer of friends' shop got Rhywire harness for engine swap in his Prelude and it didn't run right. After weeks of ignoring my Civic friend calling the Rhywire harness out as the cause-

Checked the harness connections and none of the connectors were even crimped. Just heatshrunk the wires to the terminals to keep them from falling off.

I would say it is either the case that Rhywire has moved their harness manufacture to piecemeal work where people get paid by the # pieces made in 3rd world nations (or states- LOL) or there are knockoff companies taking advantage of the Rhywire name to make inferior but similar looking products.

Either way, I wouldn't take the chance unless I knew the owner and he was going to make my harness personally.
Old 05-19-15, 11:04 AM
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I think Peter Hahn got one recently. He had a thread about it not too long ago.
FYI
Old 05-19-15, 11:15 AM
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i have one and its great. all the connections were solid and wrapped nice. all the wires were to the required length and they were great to work with. when I ordered I had asked for a couple extra things wired in and they had no issues doing it for me. at the time I was running injectors that needed resistors and instead of wiring in each resistor they wired the whole loom for a resistor box. now that im not running those injectors I only had to put a dummy plug in and it works great. I would recommend them to anyone.
Old 05-19-15, 10:09 PM
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If you have the patience for it I would say build your own. To make a new harness for my Adaptronic Plug and play I bought a wire bundle from DIYautotune and all new connectors from other vendors. I'm about $200 in with parts and know everything will be quality and if it isn't then I know exactly who to blame. Best part is you can route the wires exactly as you desire. In my case the coil triggers will run through my engine harness and my injectors will have a separate sub harness that can be changed if I ever swap injectors. I have the harness drawn out in CAD and tables for the connectors/pins if your'e interested.
Old 05-19-15, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
For those running the Rywire engine harness, what has your experience been? How have you liked the quality and 'reliability' of the harness? Plug in and work with no issues?

thanks guys
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Old 05-20-15, 03:38 AM
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Looked into them dont make plug and play for after market ecu's, and got the impression to look else where, with the lack of customer service, seems like their mostly in to honda's.

Last edited by jayred_fd3g; 05-20-15 at 03:41 AM.
Old 05-20-15, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Turk82
I have the harness drawn out in CAD and tables for the connectors/pins if your'e interested.

Is that something you can post. What would be cool is a connector at the firewall so you don't have to disconnect the ECU and feed it through the firewall when you need to pull the engine
Old 05-20-15, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by TomU
Is that something you can post. What would be cool is a connector at the firewall so you don't have to disconnect the ECU and feed it through the firewall when you need to pull the engine
People always talk about doing this, but really it's like 4-5 connectors by the ECU and push the wiring through the firewall. When I pull an engine that's like 2 minutes of the whole process.

IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.

Dale
Old 05-20-15, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TomU
Is that something you can post. What would be cool is a connector at the firewall so you don't have to disconnect the ECU and feed it through the firewall when you need to pull the engine
Originally Posted by DaleClark
People always talk about doing this, but really it's like 4-5 connectors by the ECU and push the wiring through the firewall. When I pull an engine that's like 2 minutes of the whole process.

IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.

Dale
I agree with Dale on this one. Not a whole lot of effort to get the harness out aside from struggling around the ABS. The ABS would also be troublesome for a bulkhead connector.

I don't want to thread jack here Rich but since it was requested I'll provide it here. Here are my tables for the connectors. This is for my setup so if anyone is to use this be sure to check and manipulate each item for their connector, routing, and wire colors. There also may be a mistake in there somewhere so use at your own risk. I have this in PDF as well if requested but I cannot post it here.








Old 05-20-15, 03:14 PM
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very nice diagram, do you have a higher res of the last pic I was trying to zoom in. thanks for sharing!
Old 05-20-15, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 0piston
very nice diagram, do you have a higher res of the last pic I was trying to zoom in. thanks for sharing!
PM me and I can get it to you in PDF which reads well when zooming in. AutoCAD can only produce a Jpeg in the resolution I previously posted and it is drawn quite large in my file which complicates things a little.
Old 05-20-15, 08:22 PM
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my only experience with Rywire is emailing them an inquiry asking if it costs additional money to get the damn BAC wires aded to the harness. their response was "that would be a custom harness that we dont have on shelf, which starts at $900.
Old 05-20-15, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
People always talk about doing this, but really it's like 4-5 connectors by the ECU and push the wiring through the firewall. When I pull an engine that's like 2 minutes of the whole process.

IMHO the only reason to have a quick disconnect is a race car that you're frequently pulling the engine for service. Otherwise you are just adding another connection that can be a point of failure or point of resistance.

Dale
^ agree

I have done the amp/milspec connectors and you just don't have the space nor is it practical for the engine (use them for inter-car connections off ECU's).

I don't like to chop the firewall for a bulk head either and it's right behind the ABS module which I've cursed many times.

Hard to beat the OEM rubber boot if done correctly as it offers a lot of strain relief.

If you are going to make a sub harness I would say do it for the transmission.

I personally have spent a small fortune on making harness (between crimps/strippers/connectors/wire).

I honestly like making my own and I also know the quality of materials and construction.

Each time I change engine configs/ECU's I make a new one from scratch and each time it improves (and can sell the ECU easier).

Pure and simple is by far the best.

Also plan for the future - I've often had to redo a harness because I changed/add pressure sensors (recommend sub harness for engine side AI's).
Old 05-21-15, 09:12 PM
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I should be able to let you know in a couple days when I get the car started, but so far I've powered it up, and all the readings seem to read, and it ran the fuel pump. Seemed to be perfectly well made, and the wires were in the right place/length.

For the IAC (which I assume is the BAC that Jacob refers to) the wires were there, you need to add a used connector (nobody can find the original new). The only thing I think it could have is the fuel purge solonoid... I'm going to try it without, but my understanding of how that thing works would make it simple to rig up separately.

I used the factory donut at the firewall, plus a lower radiator rubber foot I had laying around to fill the gap since it's a smaller diameter than the OEM harness.
Old 05-22-15, 04:04 PM
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Are the factory grommets available separately?
Old 05-22-15, 04:37 PM
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Ive had mine in the car for about 2 years. I had one small issue with it losing rpm signal but I fixed that by ensuring that the ecu pins were seated properly. Works as advertised, I would recommend it.
Old 06-01-15, 08:08 AM
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Update: Everything is fired up, car runs as normal before single turbo install. I checked all the sensors on the PFC.
Old 06-01-15, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ptrhahn
The only thing I think it could have is the fuel purge solonoid... I'm going to try it without, but my understanding of how that thing works would make it simple to rig up separately..
it is. one side gets the same black/white wire that powers the solenoids and the BAC, and then the other wire just goes right to the ECU
Old 06-01-15, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
it is. one side gets the same black/white wire that powers the solenoids and the BAC, and then the other wire just goes right to the ECU

I just plumbed vacuum right from the canister under the TB to UIM with a check valve, and no issues thus far.
Old 06-06-15, 01:43 PM
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I've had a great experience Rywire.

I received my harness 9 days after placing my order, only modification I had requested was to change the IAT sensor plug to the fast reacting sensor. The length of all the sensors were spot on, perfect length to where each connector/ground needed to go, no stretching, no excessive slack. I swapped out my factory harness that had no issues, other than being old/brittle and was single turbo so I had no need for the extra connectors and wiring. All sensors read properly first time after plug in, and the car started up first time without issues. Still running great 2 years later.

I do wish it came with a firewall grommet, but I ended up slicing up one off of an old hacked up harness and swapping it onto the Rywire.
Old 08-06-15, 07:05 PM
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To follow up on this thread, I had been having some issues with my FD and was looking at the harness as a possible culprit. Seems the fuel injectors were the faulty part(s), they've since been replaced and the car is running like a boss
Old 09-14-15, 09:15 PM
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I think the gauge thickness is way too thin and it look like telephone wire was use by judging the color code on the wires.
Old 09-14-15, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rx7aholic
I think the gauge thickness is way too thin and it look like telephone wire was use by judging the color code on the wires.
What?

Please provide a bit more info to back this up.

I installed one of these and it's 100% not telephone wire. Perhaps you can post a picture of the Rywire Harness you have in your hands right now and point out anything that supports your claim.
Old 09-15-15, 05:45 PM
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The wire has high temp Teflon insulation which is thinner than cheap pvc possibly confusion of insulation thickness with wire gauge. My Rywire harness was high quality

Last edited by blue87; 09-15-15 at 05:46 PM. Reason: Phone autocorrect


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