Exedy Twin Disk - can't go into first gear when engine is running!
#29
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Just to give you a heads up. I have had this exact issue with my s2000. It was difficulty to get into 1st and reverse. Tho its is not an rx7 the pull type clutch is the same. I bled the clutch, adjusted the pedal, hell i even replaced the clutch master and slave. I was told a new clutch was installed shortly before i got it from a "shop". To make a long story short. One clutch fork finger was bent. Why they bent the fingers or how is beyond me. When the clutch was depressed it would pull the throw out bearing back cocked on an angle and put uneven pressure on the pressure plate fingers. That coupled with a 100k mile worn trans syncos made it almost impossible. After i put a new clutch fork and throw out bearing in, Worked like a charm. This may not be your issue but i would gamble my money on it. Good luck
#30
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Bent clutch fork by the sound of it. It happened once to me on a tuning customers car. It wouldn't want to go into first. But if you shift it into second and jam it into 1st it would go in (I used this to get the car home). If you remove the tranny inspection plate, you could probably see it.
thewird
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#32
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Usually this problem is from the first floater plate/pressure plate after the top hat.
It takes the most heat and warps causing it to drag when disegaging.
It's happened in a couple of evos I've built due to harsh launching.
Replacing the plate fixes the issue. Also measure the first clutch disc. Usually it wears out faster from the drag..if they're the same size as the ones on the evos about 4mm is new 3.2 is discard
It takes the most heat and warps causing it to drag when disegaging.
It's happened in a couple of evos I've built due to harsh launching.
Replacing the plate fixes the issue. Also measure the first clutch disc. Usually it wears out faster from the drag..if they're the same size as the ones on the evos about 4mm is new 3.2 is discard
#34
sorry it's been so long since my reply. I had 2 issues which have now been fixed.
My first issue was first and second clutch plate being switched. the 2 Exedy friction plates have order in which you need to install them. I thought they were the same and the order didn't matter.
Second issue was that I am running rx8 master cylinder which must be smaller than rx7 master or that my master cylinder assembly was dying. Either way, I switched it out with wilwood remote reservoir unit and it's now fine.
My first issue was first and second clutch plate being switched. the 2 Exedy friction plates have order in which you need to install them. I thought they were the same and the order didn't matter.
Second issue was that I am running rx8 master cylinder which must be smaller than rx7 master or that my master cylinder assembly was dying. Either way, I switched it out with wilwood remote reservoir unit and it's now fine.
#35
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Thank you for your inputs.
rotaryevolution, I examined every inch of the clutch bracket and nothing gives when I press in the clutch with my hand. Master cylinder is being pressed in linearly as I press the clutch slowly. About the clutch install, I asked the mechanic who installed the clutch and he said he is aware of the directionality and installed it correctly. Given his experience, previously demonstrated honesty, and attention to detail, I trust him.
By the way, when I jack up the rear of the car and turn on the engine with clutch fully depressed, the rear wheels still turn in all gears. This is the reason why I don't think tranny is the main culprit. It certainly can be, but foremost culprit is still some component of the assembly that operates the clutch or clutch itself.
I think the easiest thing to do would be to blame potentially shorter throw of the RX8 master clutch cylinder compared to the RX7 master clutch cylinder (if anyone knows they're exactly the same, please let me know). Both master cylinders are the same bore, and in fact uses the same refurbishing kit, but perhaps shorter throw by RX8 master clutch cylinder doesn't displace FD RX7 slave cylinder enough. To fix this potential problem, I plan on changing the RX8 master clutch cylinder with a larger diameter Wilwood model to transfer enough volume to RX7 slave. I'm going this route mainly because this is the only route that doesn't necessitate dropping the tranny again. If this doesn't work, I'll drop the tranny and look at the clutch & fork more closely.
Any suggestions would be really appreciated in the meanwhile!
rotaryevolution, I examined every inch of the clutch bracket and nothing gives when I press in the clutch with my hand. Master cylinder is being pressed in linearly as I press the clutch slowly. About the clutch install, I asked the mechanic who installed the clutch and he said he is aware of the directionality and installed it correctly. Given his experience, previously demonstrated honesty, and attention to detail, I trust him.
By the way, when I jack up the rear of the car and turn on the engine with clutch fully depressed, the rear wheels still turn in all gears. This is the reason why I don't think tranny is the main culprit. It certainly can be, but foremost culprit is still some component of the assembly that operates the clutch or clutch itself.
I think the easiest thing to do would be to blame potentially shorter throw of the RX8 master clutch cylinder compared to the RX7 master clutch cylinder (if anyone knows they're exactly the same, please let me know). Both master cylinders are the same bore, and in fact uses the same refurbishing kit, but perhaps shorter throw by RX8 master clutch cylinder doesn't displace FD RX7 slave cylinder enough. To fix this potential problem, I plan on changing the RX8 master clutch cylinder with a larger diameter Wilwood model to transfer enough volume to RX7 slave. I'm going this route mainly because this is the only route that doesn't necessitate dropping the tranny again. If this doesn't work, I'll drop the tranny and look at the clutch & fork more closely.
Any suggestions would be really appreciated in the meanwhile!
If clutch fork was broken typically the clutch would sound and feel differently
I'd lean towards bad slave or having the rx8 master
#36
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sorry it's been so long since my reply. I had 2 issues which have now been fixed.
My first issue was first and second clutch plate being switched. the 2 Exedy friction plates have order in which you need to install them. I thought they were the same and the order didn't matter.
Second issue was that I am running rx8 master cylinder which must be smaller than rx7 master or that my master cylinder assembly was dying. Either way, I switched it out with wilwood remote reservoir unit and it's now fine.
My first issue was first and second clutch plate being switched. the 2 Exedy friction plates have order in which you need to install them. I thought they were the same and the order didn't matter.
Second issue was that I am running rx8 master cylinder which must be smaller than rx7 master or that my master cylinder assembly was dying. Either way, I switched it out with wilwood remote reservoir unit and it's now fine.
#37
Form > Function
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Stick (or anyone), do you remember how to tell the order of the 2 plates? I am having similar 1st/reverse troubles. Very rough engagement but it will go in to gear. Had the clutch out a couple times and can't remember paying attention to this detail, although I alwasy try to replace the order as it comes apart. The install instructions on exedy's site seem to be removed...
F/W Side and T/M Side (or just F/W and T/M). F/W means it's the Flywheel side disc, or bottom disc - T/M means it's the Transmission side disc, or top disc.
There should also be markings on the F/W, center plate, cover, etc that indicate the assembly alignment for the steel.
Good Luck.
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