3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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everything makes the car die

Old Aug 20, 2010 | 12:10 AM
  #1  
Joe Dirte's Avatar
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CA everything makes the car die

So stepping on the brakes, rolling down the windows, or turning the lights on cause my idle to drop, and the warmer my car gets the lower the rpms go until the point where it actually dies. Except for when i turn the a/c on, then the rpms hang out aroud 1200ish. I just cleaned the ISC or whatever its called but the problem persists. Could that valve just be bad or could there be some other problem?

Much appreciated
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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bad grounds? i dont know
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 12:26 AM
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I think you have a vacuum leak. Or, perhgaps you wrecked the ISC.
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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Have you tested your alternator?
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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^what i was thinking to, that and the batt.
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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I had a similar issue, and I changed the MAP Sensor and that solved it, but another symptom of mine was the car being in limp mode as well.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 05:45 PM
  #7  
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The alternator puts out 13.8V at idle. the volt gauge in my car reads below 12 when i do anything of the things that irritate it. when i give it any bit of throttle the problem vanishes.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 11:57 AM
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Mileage on engine? I would do a compression check and also check the ELD (eletrical load detector) which is near the ecu. That device regulates the high current items on the vehicle (lights, a/c ect). I would also recheck grounds and add more.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:15 PM
  #9  
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The engine should be set to idle at 720 rpm with all electrical loads off, and a jumper wire between "TEN" and "GND" in the Diagnostic Connector. That would be a first step. (Idle speed is set with the Air Adjustment Screw in the lower rear corner of the throttle body.) The idle speed is correct when there is no difference in idle speed between having the jumper in and having it out. If idle speed still drops (after that adjustment) when an electrical load is added, the ELU ("Electrical Load Unit") as mentioned above is probably defective. I think the P/N of the ELU is N3A1-18-701, but not sure since parts catalog ID's it just as a "Control Unit." It is addressed on pages F-135 and F-136 of the 1994 Factory Workshop Manual.
Attached Thumbnails everything makes the car die-air-bypass-screw1.jpg  
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 10:32 AM
  #10  
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The mileage is about 10,000 on the rebuild. I did a ccompression test and the lowest reading i got was 138psi. I will try what wstrohm was saying asap. Thanks guys
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