The guy i bought my FD from (a mazda mechanic) told me he "rebuilt" the engine earlier for durability. However since there was no paperwork or proof he actually did rebuild it, i would assume he told me that just so i can buy the car from him lol. The fact he gave me a 6 month warranty on the engine (on paper) after i bought the car makes me sorta believe he did rebuild it. Or he trusts the car/me/both lol.

So lets just assume its original.

1993 R1
Just hit 79k miles. Well its 79,287 to be exact today lol
HKS RS intake
Greddy FMIC
HKS DP
Stock cat
PFS catback
turboxs old school boost controller.
Stock ECU

Dont know my hp, and i boost around 10psi. Yes it spikes in the winter but so far, everything is good.

engine pulls 20-21 of vacuum (probably a leak cause i have a bit higher idle) but when idle does steady at normal sometimes, i see 18-19 of vacuum.

 

Update (see post #30)... Our '94 is now at 101,800 miles and still perking on its original stock engine. Just passed smog testing in CA with flying colors.

 

first engine lasted 126k in my car, now on a better built one

 

94 SSM with 42K miles. 3rd owner:
Pettit downpipe & Racing Beat exhaust
Pettit ECU
Pettit Blueprinted charge control valve
Pettit Cool Charge intercooler
Fast reacting IAT
Right hand oil cooler/lines (stock)
185 degree fan switch/180 degree thermosensor
Profec S Boost Controller
Koyo AL racing radiator
Lots of reliability upgrades such as all new rats nest plumbing, Pettit AST, etc...

 

I just broke 70,000 miles the other day, car still runs great and its been my DD for almost 3 years now.

 

94 base mb with 127k i beleive orginal. just lost coolant seal thou

 

That's the best way for these engines to die at that mileage. Less parts to replace during the rebuild.

 

94 touring, 120k miles on original motor, finally blew a coolant seal 2 weeks ago. 100% original with 0 mods. Rebuild in progress

 

93 r1 just over 44k. only mods is a downpipe and petit ast

 

'93 Touring - Silver
25k miles
2nd Owner

Stock.

 

I guess we should also indicate our driving styles as well. This will give some people a better idea what to expect out of your motors.

For me, I bought the car at 38K miles. ~40K miles I was already at 320whp and now its 50K and although I dont drive my car much, whenever I drive it, I drive it HARD. Yet I do so responsibly (warm-ups, safe tunes, monitors temps etc)

 

94 R2 59K (put 9K on in a little over a year)

BONE stock when I got her,
Pettit AST
boost / vac gauge on colum
Greddy BOV
Catback (unknown 3" with 5" tail)
Vented Scoot hood
Greddy SMIC / piping / Elbow (no more AWS)

Soon to come Y pipe / Intake / Water Inj

 

i bought a rebuilt engine to save time...so my blown coolant seal short block but running is for sale...lol

 

Higher idle speeds will increase your vacuum #'s. Idle should be steady at 750-850 rpm. If you're seeing 18-19" of vacuum at that idle in that rpm range, you have a pretty healthy engine.