Evans, water injection, synthetic oil, premix and a little bit of this and that are all good things but NOT necessary especially when a good replacement engine or rebuild is around 2k and anyone with hand tools and a garage can install it themselves in a couple of weekends.

I tried evans but it was a PIA to install and it slowed me down so again I wouldn't recommend it for track use. I know fellow track rats like Damian and Andy both used it or use it which is why I gave it a go but it's not for me. For my street cars I usually own them for 3 years max and they are meticulously maintained, I'm constantly changing radiators or turbos and they are constantly leaking coolant from this or that so in the end the coolant stays fresh. If the cars aren't running perfectly I fiddle with them until they are.

Water injection is a serious PIA, wires and lines (that always leak) everywhere, need to constantly fill it etc....... Again not for me and not needed with a good tune and good IC.

Snythetic oil is the single biggest waste of money for a rotary car because the oil gets so poluted with gas so fast you have to or should change it every 2500 miles. However it's not a bad idea for track use if your oil temps are high like mine especially with my oil cooled only single turbo.

Premix is great if the OMP isn't working properly and the oil in the car is old but if you maintain your car properly it's a PIA and it's not needed.

Don't get me wrong about any of this stuff it's all good but to me the benefits don't out weigh the combination of the time, money and mess involved. The rotary engine is a hell of lot tougher than some folks make it out to be.

 

Fritz, I agree, it seems lots of fixes for problems that have simple solutions. Not a track guy myself but I do autox a lot. Never needed any of the contemporary fixes.


Of course it depends on your power level, gotta keep it within reason, want a 500hp rotary? You are gonna have problems that need solutions.

 

YEP......if you want a 400 HP FD you'll have mega problems with the entire driveline but that's also double the stock power so it's to be expected however at 350 and below this engine is a ROCK! Fortunately for me 350 is enough.

 

Attempting to bring this thread back to life.

I first tried Evans back in 2009. Back then they recommended I use their "NPG+" coolant for FD. The car had no overheating ever since.
Nowadays they no longer make that product. Instead, there are 3 choices offered by Evans: "High Performance", "Powersports" and "NPG".

Which one in your opinion is best suited for a daily driver FD?

 

"High Performance" is the equivalent to NPG+
That said, the original NPG+ SDS has its composition as Ethylene glycol ~70% +Propylene glycol ~30% with some proprietary corrosion inhibitor so you can use any high quality, silicate-free, full strength long life coolant and save a few bucks. I started using NPG+ in 2004 and I've never had overheating problems but since the initial conversion I just use good full strength coolant. I've converted 3 other cars, 2x 4-cyl and a V8. No complaints.

 

the NPG now offered is not recommended for street/daily or general use either per the Evans website, for racing only; HP is the correct replacement

the one thing I’ll add about Evans is you really need to use the refractometer and make sure the water content is below the recommended minimum. Otherwise it will create an acid byproduct and become very corrosive. Otherwise it’s my choice too for rotary since it never boils over, ever.
.

 

This is great info, thank you.
Has anyone had any experience with dual-pass radiators and Evans coolant in use? Koyo for once has their line of N-FLO dual-pass radiators which keep the coolant inside the radiator core longer than single-pass models.
I wonder if anyone here noticed any temperature difference between using Evans in dual-pass versus single-pass rads?

 

Interesting question. I just took out the v mount cx racing rad, because the temperature kept rising.
I have a fluidyne rad that I put back in. The temps are steady 85° now as before.
I dont know about Koyo Rad though, but i would expect same result with any dual pass or even N flo.

 

Aren't v-mounted radiators and intercoolers less effective than their front mounted counterparts?
If you were swapping one v-mount for another v-mount rad then what Fluidyne model was it? I wonder if it's a single or dual-pass model.
And lastly, are you running Evans?

 

Cxracing dual pass, it has inlet and outlet on the same side(top). This cxracing rad is v mounted. The Fluidyne is single pass, it has inlet on the top and outlet on the bottom. The fluidyne is on v mount configuration possition with custome brackets.
mind you both rads had full ducting all around, same radiator fans and all.
another note is that cxracing has about 35% or more of thicker core.

 

And was the vehicle running Evans coolant in both radiators??

 

Yes, thats the main point here.
I know there are some members here using the Cxracing rad with regular coolant and according to them it works great.

 

That's one interesting observation! Thank you for sharing.
It appears not all dual-pass flow radiators are similar efficient. I am guessing it has to do with internal restrictor plates that make the coolant stay inside longer. The longer the coolant stays inside rad's core = the slower the cooling process?

 

This can work just fine, it's just a nightmare to bleed property! Especially with a mechanical water pump which requires multiple heat cycles with the car at different angles to do it right. Not to bad with an electric water pump. lf someone is having issues it's probably not properly bleed.

 

Agreed, but I made sure i bled the system. It does take a lot of heat cycles, but I did.
It might be somethin wrong with mine or just doest match with evans..

 

I have been chasing this issue as well.

I think that with the 0 pressure the coolant can not flow through all the nicks and crannys like the pressurized system it was designed to be.

With dual pass radiator the pressure helps it but with 0 pressure now it will flow the least restrictive path.

I noticed when my car was warm the coolant did not stay in the hose for the thermowax and when I turned if off after idling and turned it right back on thats when I first noticed it. I thought it was the ISC but it was the TPS not at warmed up home potion.

The heater did not blow hot either.

Revving at 2k to 3k allowed the thermowax to extend and my TPS was again at the warmed up home position and then heater got hot as well.

This worries me about coolant flow to the twins.

All these side coolant pathways were designed to flow under pressure and flowing at 0 pressure I think there are other issues.

I think this is why we need at least a 7 psi cap on the AST if you still have one or for your main cap.

I have read it works for some and not for others. I wonder what are the exact configurations of the cars it does work for.

I am also converting my 2 pass radiator to flow better with gravity and be less reliant on pressure for flow.

p.s. My car does have an external oring center iron coolant leak and that is why I switched to evans.