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Eureka, fix for plastic parts (kinda long w/pics)

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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 09:25 PM
  #26  
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I wonder how well it would work for the common broken plastic tabs on the exterior door handles.
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mrb63083
I wonder how well it would work for the common broken plastic tabs on the exterior door handles.
I need to try this on one of my old broken handles...I'll let ya'll know how it works out!
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 10:20 PM
  #28  
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Great stuff!!! Got to get some to fix my other broken plastics.

FYI for those with messed up door handles checkout my sig for really great prices for new complete door handles!
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for the post, I can definitely think of a few other fixes where previously I used JB Weld, including passenger door pull reinforcement.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 10:04 AM
  #30  
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Cool. Just ordered some . . .

:-) neil
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 05:10 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by nashman69g
One thing I found when tapping the thin walled studs was that the Plast-Aid alone was brittle. I then decided to do some more experiments to try to make the product more ductile. I decided to use a can of ABS cement to mix with the Plast-Aid. I haven't tested to see how different ratios of the ABS cement would change the properties of the Plast-Aid (that's for a later date). What I did use was about a 1/3 ABS cement to 2/3 Plast-Aid; this does, however, lengthen the drying time. The good news is that the ABS cement did add some ductility to the Plast-Aid allowing me to tap the hole without the stud cracking--plus it added some black color to it.

Is this stuff still holding up for you?

When you mixed the ABS cement with the plastaid, didn't it make it hard to form? Doesn't it take away from they putty-like consistancy of just the plast-aid and make it too soupy to form? How does that all work?

Thanks.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 08:03 PM
  #32  
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Great thread
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #33  
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damnnn i was hoping to be the first to do the s2k engine start button

but it looks damn good! great thread!! and at least now i know for sure the button looks good lol!!
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #34  
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Substitute

I think the material is the same stuff we use to make temporary crowns for patients in the office. Methylmethacrylate powder and monomer. If it is it can be bought cheap at a dental lab supply house.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #35  
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update us with some pics and more info if you can.
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 04:45 PM
  #36  
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Good stuff!
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 09:34 AM
  #37  
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Had forgotten about this thread. This is now in the FAQ sticky.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 09:57 PM
  #38  
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Oh...FYI...don't let direct sunlight get to the liquid portion or you'll end up with a hardened "liquid." Ask me how I know:wall bash:


P.S. I'd still like to know how to get more liquid...I have extra powder and need more liquid...Anyone figure out the "secret" liquid yet??
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Old May 4, 2017 | 09:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by nashman69g
Oh...FYI...don't let direct sunlight get to the liquid portion or you'll end up with a hardened "liquid." Ask me how I know:wall bash:


P.S. I'd still like to know how to get more liquid...I have extra powder and need more liquid...Anyone figure out the "secret" liquid yet??
Just an update to this...called the company up and they sent me two free liquid bottles.
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Old May 5, 2017 | 09:29 AM
  #40  
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I think I saw this thread a while back and never replied to it.

I've been using this for a while, this stuff works SO well. Tons of uses. Stinks like hell, though, until it cures. Don't do it in the house or your wife will get pissed off.

This is THE way to fix the little broken screw holes and crap that make the interior panels such a pain in the ***.

Dale
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Old May 5, 2017 | 12:37 PM
  #41  
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Thanks for bumping this thread, I missed this previously.

I have always just used JB weld and other putty epoxies in the past and the only problem I had is that it does depend on a mechanical attachment to the plastic so I had to rough surfaces and drill holes, wire them together, etc.

The great thing on this product is that it is an easy to work with putty and it does still partially dissolve the base plastic parts to promote adhesion.
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Old May 16, 2018 | 06:44 AM
  #42  
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Have you tried using it for the PP-plastics found on the interior trim pieces like in the trunk and the rear quarter panels?
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Old May 16, 2018 | 07:21 AM
  #43  
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I haven't, I don't know how well it work work since those panels are quite flexible. This stuff is pretty hard and solid like ABS plastic.

It may do OK for re-attaching metal anchors when the plastic clip on the panel is broken or distorted, though.

Dale
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Old May 16, 2018 | 10:35 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Zepticon
Have you tried using it for the PP-plastics found on the interior trim pieces like in the trunk and the rear quarter panels?
Polypropylene should be welded not glued. I use this digital heat gun for plastic welding:


With welding you can make or repair almost anything out of polypropylene. Here is a video:


Last edited by mdp; May 16, 2018 at 10:47 AM. Reason: can't spell
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Old May 16, 2018 | 09:46 PM
  #45  
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Its the little prong that go out from the quarterpanel and in to the rear bins where i slide in the wall for the trunk. Not much space or area to use a heat gun:/

Last edited by Zepticon; May 16, 2018 at 09:49 PM.
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Old May 17, 2018 | 09:31 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Zepticon
Have you tried using it for the PP-plastics found on the interior trim pieces like in the trunk and the rear quarter panels?
I'd won't work well for PP plastics...I've tested this already...You can use the weld method but this takes practice to get right.
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