Engineering a better harness bar (warning: long…)
#251
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Mine turned up today, all the way over to the UK in 7 days. Fantastic looking piece of kit Rob, thanks for sorting things out so smoothly. I'll hopefully get it fitted in the next couple of days.
Steve
Steve
#252
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Got mine this week. Looks great. Well above my expectations, which were pretty high to start. I'll report back after getting it fit on this weekend, although I will only be able to speak on fitment since my car's guts are all over the place for full non-seq convo. Thanks again.
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The lower two lap belts can be connected in the same location as the stock lap belts. Eye-bolts are available from places like Jegs or PegasusRacing that directly replace the bolts that secure the stock lap belts. This allows you to keep your stock lap belts for street driving, and gives you a place to snap-in your racing harness.
These mounting locations are reinforced from the factory, and are more than strong enough. Also, in this configuration the eye-bolts are loaded in the proper configuration and direction, so their use is perfectly acceptable.
If you use a 6pt harness (something I HIGHLY recommend, especially while using the stock seats), then the two anti-sub straps can be mounted in the same spot.
-Rob
These mounting locations are reinforced from the factory, and are more than strong enough. Also, in this configuration the eye-bolts are loaded in the proper configuration and direction, so their use is perfectly acceptable.
If you use a 6pt harness (something I HIGHLY recommend, especially while using the stock seats), then the two anti-sub straps can be mounted in the same spot.
-Rob
#254
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The lower two lap belts can be connected in the same location as the stock lap belts. Eye-bolts are available from places like Jegs or PegasusRacing that directly replace the bolts that secure the stock lap belts. This allows you to keep your stock lap belts for street driving, and gives you a place to snap-in your racing harness.
These mounting locations are reinforced from the factory, and are more than strong enough. Also, in this configuration the eye-bolts are loaded in the proper configuration and direction, so their use is perfectly acceptable.
If you use a 6pt harness (something I HIGHLY recommend, especially while using the stock seats), then the two anti-sub straps can be mounted in the same spot.
-Rob
These mounting locations are reinforced from the factory, and are more than strong enough. Also, in this configuration the eye-bolts are loaded in the proper configuration and direction, so their use is perfectly acceptable.
If you use a 6pt harness (something I HIGHLY recommend, especially while using the stock seats), then the two anti-sub straps can be mounted in the same spot.
-Rob
-Andy
#255
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FWIW, my car came with no seat belts in it and is a 93. I don't think that'd make a difference, though.
#257
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Let me attempt to clarify. The following pictures show the driver's side of the vehicle (those of you in England and Australia should look at the pictures using a mirror ).
Two bolts (for each seat) need to be replaced with standard racing-harness eye-bolts. Eye-bolts are available from numerous places such as Jegs, Summit Racing, Pegasus Auto Racing, etc. One eye-bolt directly replaces the bolt used to secure the stock seat belt to the floor (the seat belt can still remain in place). This becomes the outboard lapbelt mounting point. The second eye-bolt directly replaces one of the inboard seat mounting bolts. This becomes the inboard lapbelt mounting point.
Use of eye-bolts in these locations does not impede seat travel (ie you should still be able to slide the seat all the way back).
Outboard connection point:
Inboard connection point:
A single anti-sub strap (eg: 5-point harness) is not really recommended for use with stock seats as they do not have a central slot to allow for the anti-sub belt to do its job properly (although, some people still use them). A better idea is to use a system with 2 anti-sub straps (eg: 6-point harness). In this case, the anti-sub straps can be connected to the same eye-bolts as the lap belts. To use them, you lay the anti-sub straps across the seat, sit on them, pull them up between your legs and connect them to the central harness connection point.
-Rob
Two bolts (for each seat) need to be replaced with standard racing-harness eye-bolts. Eye-bolts are available from numerous places such as Jegs, Summit Racing, Pegasus Auto Racing, etc. One eye-bolt directly replaces the bolt used to secure the stock seat belt to the floor (the seat belt can still remain in place). This becomes the outboard lapbelt mounting point. The second eye-bolt directly replaces one of the inboard seat mounting bolts. This becomes the inboard lapbelt mounting point.
Use of eye-bolts in these locations does not impede seat travel (ie you should still be able to slide the seat all the way back).
Outboard connection point:
Inboard connection point:
A single anti-sub strap (eg: 5-point harness) is not really recommended for use with stock seats as they do not have a central slot to allow for the anti-sub belt to do its job properly (although, some people still use them). A better idea is to use a system with 2 anti-sub straps (eg: 6-point harness). In this case, the anti-sub straps can be connected to the same eye-bolts as the lap belts. To use them, you lay the anti-sub straps across the seat, sit on them, pull them up between your legs and connect them to the central harness connection point.
-Rob
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Ok, cool thanks for the clarification. But I did have some time today with friends and figured out what you were saying hah. However, are you sure that using a 6-point in this manner is proper?
#260
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Direct quote from Schroth's installation instructions for their Profi Formula models:
"The indirect routing requires a type of preloading of the anti-submarining straps during a frontal impact. This is achieved by sitting on the anti-submarining straps, routing them rearwards and attaching them in the region near or on the lap belt anchorages. This anti-sub strap design requires sitting on the straps or having a thin seat panel allowing the straps running rearwards right underneath the driver’s buttock."
This seems to be the mounting style for most "formula" style belts. However, you should always check with the manufacturer to ensure that their belts are designed to be installed in this manner. In all circumstances, you should follow the guidelines and directions of the belt manufacturer for the restraint that you choose to purchase.
How much was what? The basic harness bar system was $375
-Rob
"The indirect routing requires a type of preloading of the anti-submarining straps during a frontal impact. This is achieved by sitting on the anti-submarining straps, routing them rearwards and attaching them in the region near or on the lap belt anchorages. This anti-sub strap design requires sitting on the straps or having a thin seat panel allowing the straps running rearwards right underneath the driver’s buttock."
This seems to be the mounting style for most "formula" style belts. However, you should always check with the manufacturer to ensure that their belts are designed to be installed in this manner. In all circumstances, you should follow the guidelines and directions of the belt manufacturer for the restraint that you choose to purchase.
Originally Posted by FD3S2005
so how much was it?
-Rob
#261
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Hmm, ok. Just because the Sabelt 6pt I purchased has anti-subs that barely make it to those rear anchors. I'll have to mess with it some more and check their site for mounting requirements.
#265
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Finally got around to slapping the harness bar on and had no problems with fitment. While it certainly looks nice, I can't speak to its functionality since my car is still basically apart for non-seq conversion. Looking forward to getting my new seats and harnesses in and takin' it for a spin. Thanks.
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