engine wont start!
#27
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
new news...remove, cleaned the crank angle sensors...resistance is within spec for both sensors.
The continuity check for both clips proved true...cleaned them up and reinstalled them. I then turned the key on and tried to test voltage with key on and got 0. How do you check wihtout removing the rail if you are getting signal to injectors? It requires voltage to open right?
I have the manual and have reviewed the codes beleive me!
What is a good way to test voltage to the injectors without removing the rail....say by using the injector clips?
The continuity check for both clips proved true...cleaned them up and reinstalled them. I then turned the key on and tried to test voltage with key on and got 0. How do you check wihtout removing the rail if you are getting signal to injectors? It requires voltage to open right?
I have the manual and have reviewed the codes beleive me!
What is a good way to test voltage to the injectors without removing the rail....say by using the injector clips?
#29
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Yes, the ECU sends a signal to open the injectors. Unplug an injector and try to start the car while checking for voltage at the plug. Are these your original injectors? Where they cleaned?
If u remove the UIM can u smell fuel? If the engine has no compression then it might not force fuel out the empty spark plug holes.
If u remove the UIM can u smell fuel? If the engine has no compression then it might not force fuel out the empty spark plug holes.
#30
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Ok hooked up 12v to the injectors..primary and secondary and they clicked....I havent been getting the ecu engine codes which in the manual says my ecu is shot...I completely assembled the engine with i/c and all. Not going to take it apart anymore. It has got to be my ecu....too many non continuous grounds...the harness looks good without fraying and such. This really pisses me off. There isn't anything under the uim that I have not checked. The grounds are clean and set in proper locations. I am fedex ing the ecu to pettit today.
Any more feedback would be appreciated. The manual states that if grounds are not proper the injectors will not fire.
Fuel pump is good/ ignition is good/ turns over fine/ shows some vac on the boost guage when turning over/ injectors are not firing. sould I hear some clicking from the injectors when the car is starting? say I place my ear close to the uim?
Any more feedback would be appreciated. The manual states that if grounds are not proper the injectors will not fire.
Fuel pump is good/ ignition is good/ turns over fine/ shows some vac on the boost guage when turning over/ injectors are not firing. sould I hear some clicking from the injectors when the car is starting? say I place my ear close to the uim?
#31
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
new rebuild compression is ok....even if compression is bad and the injectors were working I would have FUEL IN THE HOUSING! Why do we keep on the compression bit? My car should be flooded if injectors were firing and no compression or spark.
The injectors are from r/c engineering cleaned and blue printed...no, not going back into the uim to remove the injectors either....done with removal bullshit...if the ecu is good then it is getting towed to R/P for repair. I have an auto ecu to replace to see if I even can get codes again.
The injectors are from r/c engineering cleaned and blue printed...no, not going back into the uim to remove the injectors either....done with removal bullshit...if the ecu is good then it is getting towed to R/P for repair. I have an auto ecu to replace to see if I even can get codes again.
#32
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
OK new discovery!!!! Tested the main relays think the green one is Circuit Opening Relay...this tested a 72.4 ohms...presumably good.
The yellow cube relay...well it test at 640ohms then none at all...The yellow relay is bad!!! hmmmmm....could this be the cause for the injectors failing or not firing? Can I get these relays at the automotice store?
thanks
The yellow cube relay...well it test at 640ohms then none at all...The yellow relay is bad!!! hmmmmm....could this be the cause for the injectors failing or not firing? Can I get these relays at the automotice store?
thanks
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: SouthEast PA
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Circuit Opening Relay
I went throught the exact same thing you did and to no avail...my FD still wont fire. I had here running after a motor swap, that I performed myself and then she quite on me. Mind you...she was running like ****.
I to, had mixed up the coil connectors, black, blue, white bastards.
The last time she did this to me...I borrowed my friends Fuel Pump & Circuit Opening Relay to test his spares on my car. Plugged in the Fuel Pump relay...cranked...no luck. Plugged in the Circuit Opening Relay...and she fired up, mind you...still running like **** cause I had the coil wires reversed.
Since she shut off the last time...I fixed the coil wires and still cannot get her started. I believe it is the Circuit Opening Relay as I have heard they are pretty sensitive.
As far as I know...you must get them from Mazda...which makes them all cheap. Somewhere around $60-100. I cant remember...I got prices on both when I called my local dealer! And, those prices are 10% over cost...yet, this place is a little high.
Lemme know what you find. And, I will do the same for you!
I highly suggest that if you have a friend that is local with an FD...simply borrow his Circuit Opening Relay (Green One) and try it out...save some money on the Diag.
-Marori-
I to, had mixed up the coil connectors, black, blue, white bastards.
The last time she did this to me...I borrowed my friends Fuel Pump & Circuit Opening Relay to test his spares on my car. Plugged in the Fuel Pump relay...cranked...no luck. Plugged in the Circuit Opening Relay...and she fired up, mind you...still running like **** cause I had the coil wires reversed.
Since she shut off the last time...I fixed the coil wires and still cannot get her started. I believe it is the Circuit Opening Relay as I have heard they are pretty sensitive.
As far as I know...you must get them from Mazda...which makes them all cheap. Somewhere around $60-100. I cant remember...I got prices on both when I called my local dealer! And, those prices are 10% over cost...yet, this place is a little high.
Lemme know what you find. And, I will do the same for you!
I highly suggest that if you have a friend that is local with an FD...simply borrow his Circuit Opening Relay (Green One) and try it out...save some money on the Diag.
-Marori-
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trickster
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