cover8

well, for those of you keeping up with my melodrama:

Car has spark...turns over...brand new rebuild...but will not start! ughhh!
Anyway, thought I was getting too much fuel so I remove the plugs and turned the motor over...nothing seemed to spray out...well, I removed the aft fuel filter and relocated to the engine bay...the engine has not been started since the rebuild. If I do have vapor lock. not from hear of course, how would I release it?

I have a pressure guage on the fuel line at all times and before actually turning the car over, the pressure guage shows 40psi so I know the fuel is getting to the rail...from there I dont know.

At first, I got error code 3 and 11 (crank angle "g" and ir intake thermosensor) but now there is no engine code...showed up same another time then disappered and has not reappeared.

I removed th plug and touched it to ground and it spark beautifully and shock the **** out of me!

Is there a way to make shure all vapor is removed?

Thanks for you help!

paw140

I've never heard of anyone ever having vapor lock problems on a fuel injected car. It sounds to me like your injectors are not firing. Did you reinstall the crank angle sensors correctly? If I recall, it is possible to put them on wrong.

Dougie_fresh_007

ahh well try that good ol ether spray it on ur intake and try that, and if that dont get ur car to start then.... i dont know what will

BoostCrzy

time to check all the wiring harness connections...

paw140

This is a good idea. If it fires up and then dies, then you know that you have a fuel injector problem, and not a spark or timing related problem.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Nick,
1) pull out the plugs and clean them.
2) shoot a little oil (oil cap full) into the intake plentum. (use the boost gauge nipple).
3) Pull the fuse to the fuel pump
4) turn it over
5) put the fuel pump fuse back in and see if it starts.

skunks

who redid your engine??? If your getting compression and spark on all 4 plugs, then your injectors arnt firing (if the fuel really is getting to the rail). where is your fuel pressure sensor located at?

cover8

Thanks for the feedback fellas...

Anyway still getting code 3 ("G" ) and code 11 crank angle sensor and air intake thermo sensor...code 3 is the one that controls the injector pulses. The sensor that sees the long tab on the timing ring.

I replaced the ecu...same thing. Removed the leading plugs with pump on and put cardboard on the plugholes and no mist on the cardboard....I am not getting fuel even though my fuel guage is 40psi on prestart. I check the plug ends and they are not wet just a little oily...so it is not flooded.

Code 3 is the problem...this is a primary code and is memorized by the computer. Code 2 is the timing Code3 is the pulse. I put back the pettit unlimited and then removed the largest yellow clip on the ecu...counted four pins over and set the meter to 2000 ohms resistance. I then put the red tip of the meter in the terminal and grounded the other and nothing--indicating there is no continuity....maybe a break in the wire? Funny thing if you look on the schematic, both crank sensors involve only 3 wires with one shared. Since I am not getting code 2 indicates that 2 of the 3 wires inolved are continuous...so only one wire does not have continuity...must be the signal wire to the G crank angle sensor.

I am going to remove the crank sensors and test for resistance 0.92-1.25 ohms I believe and start troubleshooting from there.

Is the connector by the front engine hoist that also has the metering oil pump include the crank wires too? If so can anyone tell me which wires to check for continuity...be much easier than removing the crank sensor.

paw140

The connector for the OMP and the ones for the crank sensors are different.

cover8

thanks paw140...if the lower crank sensor is bad this will not allow the opening of the injectors right?

thanks for your feedback!

cover8

ok new findings!! The wiring harness was not plugged in to the coils correctly...I have the white on front, next the black then the blue...hmmmm.

I then removed the plug harness and placed the blued connector in the middle coil and the black towards the firewall. Has this damaged anything???

Anyway to reconnect the balck harness I had to remove the oil filter...but in my excitement I forgot to put it back on....so when I started to crank it spilled oil all over the floor FUCKKKKKK! Can anything go right? Now I have a huge mess all over my garage.

Anyway, now I have code 11 and code 23....intake thermosensor and fuel thermosensor....I tested the plenum thermo clip and it showed 5volts...so the thermosensor might be bad...hell it is brand new! Since I will have to remove the uim I will check the fuel rail thermosensor then....after I clean the Exxon I left in the garage.

dubulup

Glad things are turning around for you...I know how you feel, in the excitement of finding something wrong and trying to crank too soon.

Sorry I have no advice for you...but after all your codes are gone and you try and crank and it still doesn't start...don't forget the fact that the engine might be flooded. Sorry if that's a re-run to you.

Good luck (you and me both)

cover8

Still no luck..after correcting the ignition coil termination points, the plugs (tested only the leading side) sparked fine. There is simply no fuel in the hosusings...only two errors I am getting are the air intake and fuel thermosensors. The air clip reads 5v with keyon and both the thermosensors are showing correct resistance...The fuel thermosensor clip does not show any voltage Now when I connect the TEN to GR the engine light comes on but does not blink...what does that mean? How can you tell if you have a bad ecu? It says in the manual if the self diagn does not work the ecu is shot....well you just connect the TEN and GR right? nothing special....only disconnect the negative if you want to clear the codes right?

Seriously, not getting much help here....guess since it is not a BOV thread...going to tow it to Austin for RP to repair.

Damn y'all...need help! I am running out of possible solutions...I mean there are claims of a bad wiring harness...maybe...but I inspected it before I installed it...not one missing or frayed clip, not one. The harness has complete original insulation.

dubulup

TEN to GND (don't know if thats what you meant)

To clear the codes, unhook neg adn press brake for 20sec (again don't know if that's what you meant)

sorry I'm not a big help, but I'm trying...

I'm also in troubleshooting phase and feel your pain.

paw140

If you hook the TEN and GRD terminals together and your CEL comes on for a few seconds and then goes out (I think thats what it does), it means that you don't have any stored codes.

Did you ever solve that crank angle sensor problem?

cover8

First I disconnect the battery.

Then push brake.

Then connect TEN to GR.

Turn Key to ON.

ABS light comes on...and I think the engine light stays on but does not blink...just stays solid. What does that mean? I guess I mean the engine light goes off for a second while turning the ignition then comes on and stays on.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

cover8

Oh yeah the CCA problem...I think I may have miss read the code...11 and 23 which are both thermosensor codes. At lunch today I am going to remove the CCA and do a resistance test on them. But I think I misread the codes...was not getting three but 23...?

paw140

Hmmm... IIRC, if you hook up the ten and grd terminals and turn the key on, if there are no stored codes, the light just goes out. If you don't have those two terminals jumped and you turn the key on, I think the light stays lit... Maybe you didn't have a good connection between the terminals?

Sorry I'm not much help. Did you just install this engine? What work did you perform before it wouldn't start? Did you plug in the circuit relay?

I just got done installing a reman in my FD, and I couldnt' get it start at first. It turns out I forgot to plug in the ignition module, which I had unplugged earlier to do a compression test. I suspect you forgot to plug something in, somewhere. Did you double check all your ECU connections? ECU grounds?

paw140

Every time I've ever done major work to a car, there is always something stupid that I forget to plug in, or something small that I screw up that keeps the car from starting. Like I didn't align the distributor correctly in my friend's Toyota truck. When I put an engine in my Beretta, I had the spark plug wires backwards (the Haynes book was wrong, not my fault!). I missed a vacuum connection on my old ford escort and it ran like ****, etc.

dubulup

I just want to get this clear, when you say TEN to "GR" are you refering to "GND"?

I don't think there is a GR???

if the CEL stays on, I don't think you have TEN grounded...same as Paw said.

cover8

I think if something is disconnected...the ecu will usually tell you.

Engine turns over fine upon turning the key.

Spark plugs ignite (at least the leading anyway). Reassigned the termination points correctly...white, blue then black.

fuel pressure guage reads 40psi dead on...removed the return line and sent the fuel to jug to check flow pattern...perfect lines are correct.

There are two wires by the ecu...they are black and very small diameter...they terminate to a nut on the ecu top bracket...there is a ground on the top of block and ground on side of UIM...that is it for ecu grounds that I know.

Going to remove the clip to the primaries to see if I am even getting signal to the CCA...and yes I meant GR = gound.

cant imagine what silly thing I forgot...getting air, spark but not fuel...

dubulup

Have you thought of trying the ATF trick to boost compression?

Before I started mine, it was spinning and spinning. ATF trick fired up! I have all these cool videos (ATF spy-hunter smoke screen) but I don't know how to post them.

cover8

Compression is not the problem...if I were getting fue and not compression I would have a collection of fuel in the housing that would spray out when removing the plugs...not the case here...not getting fuel at all!

Going to check the clips to see if I am getting voltage.

thanks for the feedback!

dubulup

Got'cha, I think my problem is fuel (secondaries) related also...I'll be doing the same when i get home.

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

Easiest way to see if you have compression - when cranking do u see vacuum on ur gauge, if it stays zero and doesn't read a few inches of vacuum then you need to add oil to combustion chambers first to try and restore compression next ATF if that doesn't work.

Also, remove one plug from each rotor at a time and turn by hand listening for three pulses. The pulses don't gaurantee enough compression to start but if there are less than three pulses per rotor threre's ur problem.

Who built this motor? Is anything cryo treated in it?