but if the leading and trailing were all mixed up would the car even start at all? and i dont really understand how to check the vacuum hoses

 

it can start, even idle sometimes.. just check and make sure they are correct. It takes you a whole of 2 minutes to check.
Not to sound harsh but, we're trying to tell you things that can affect your car without knowing much about the car itself... take the information while you can...If your trying to actually learn how a rotary works, then I advise you to buy a book and read.

 

alright. well i appreciate you helping me out. ill check them

 

I got one for you that no one has mention,,, I fixed a VW golf for a friend other day 100% same symptoms as you, would idle fine could rev with light throttle, wouldnt go over about 4200rpm. If i gassed medium to hard car would try to die straight away.. Blocked cat it was in the end, i dropped cat off and fired up car. Started right up 100% perfect! Installed new cat and car is perfect (i know its not an RX7 but when i was scratching my head at beggining it was like it was been starved, never thought a blocked exaust !)

 

yea i tried to take out my whole exhaust and that wasnt it either

 

I have one more suggestion for you. When i first got my rx7 someone had put the crank angle sensors on back to front. Car wouldnt rev and run rough. But did still run. Worth a look!

 

How many different sensors are on the whole car?

 

There are two crank angle sensors on the front cover. The connectors to the harness will go on either sensor, but because of their position, getting them mixed up will cause the car to not run properly.

Since you didn't install the engine, you need to basically start from scratch. Check the following:

* CAS connectors on proper order
* Water & fuel thermosensor connectors on correct sensor
* Ignition harness connected in proper order
* Fuel injectors are switching on/off and have proper power
* Ground connections are clean and grounded

If you don't know where these things are, download the Factory Service Manual (FSM):

http://www.wrex-racing.com/web/fd/info.htm#Docs

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9wWy...layer_embedded

This is a video explaining the symptoms

 

That car sounds bad.

Start with audible compression check, if that passes use a compression tester to see actual compression values. If that pases, double check spark plug wires to make sure they aren't crossed. You may have to check the coil pack hardness as well to make sure those plugs aren't crossed.

What ECU are you using?

 

Sounds like you need a mechanic....what part of houston are you at...

 

compression sounds fine according to the cranking in the video so i don't think it is engine related.

first pull codes from the ECU to see if it spits anything out
then start by inspecting the leading coil pack, it's known to melt down due to heat. possibly replace wires anyways.
next have the injectors sent out to be serviced/cleaned while your checking the coils
inspect the wiring harness for the injectors and ignition coils thoroughly
if none of that fixes the issue then check fuel pressure, if fuel pressure is within spec- replace the ECU.

 

the car sounds like that because i took out the cat to see if that was the problem. ive tried to taken of every bolt to the intake manifold and still cant take it off to get to the injectors and to check for vacuum leaks

 

im in league city. near galveston

 

Eh, a bit far for me to go check it out. Gas is too pricey. haha. Good luck. Some pics of engine bay probably help

 

thats what im trying to do but dont know how ha

 

http://1993rx7enginebay.shutterfly.com/pictures

this is the only way i know how to upload pics

 

if yall know can yall tell me where all that unhooked stuff is suppose to go?

 

there is nothing unhooked that is of importance.

the blue connector is for the EGR which your car probably doesn't have a sensor for.
the hose end on the airbox is just for a muffler hose to hang down under the airbox.
the connector by the brake MC is for the cruise control, which was deleted.
the cap on the UIM is normal.
the broken bolt in the center of the UIM should be repaired.
the wiring by the diagnostic connector has me a little worried though, make sure the wire colors all match up at the joints and they don't pull out easily if you tug on them lightly.

 

would i just put a bolt into the intake manifold?

 

another question can yall tell me what the size of the secondary injector and is the secondary injector located the closest to you from the top of the engine?

 

the secondary injectors sizes (if oem) is 850cc. It is the (look from the fron of the car, the two left injectors, that are set in the LIM.

You should fix the intercooler hose, seems loose.

Also, check the map sensor (pic DSCN1002- black switch right behind the Throttle body elbow..attached to the bracket on the firewall) Disconnect it after the car is started to see if the car changes idle tone..

Have you taken a look at the plug wires yet? If your still unsure, take pictures of the wires from coil to plug. Also, check if your coils are firing from the end of the plug that clips to the spark plug..

 

So you took the upper intake off? I'm not trying to be mean...but do you have a mechanic experience? Like, ever work on a car besides maybe an oil change? I think ideally , you might really wanna get/pay someone to look at the car less your really adamant about learning about this car.

 

yea i had someone come by and mess with the map sensor and it didnt change a thing. and i also looked at the plugs again and they were correct. so we started taking apart the intake manifold and one of the secondary injectors was disconnected. when i plug it in it didnt start up or anything. but if i plugged it in when the car was in idle it would run rich. when it was plugged in i could full throttle it and it wouldnt stall unlike before if it was unplugged and i full throttled it it would try to stall

 

and he also checked volts on one of the secondary injectors