Engine Rotor question
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,601 Likes
on
1,846 Posts
welding isn't a great idea, but you can smooth it and rebalance. you should probably measure the seal grooves before you do anything else, if those are worn out the rotor was done anyways.
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: ccc
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If i will buy another rotor - how can i match what i got now?
I can only see one letter S in the rotor --- is there a code in the rotor other than that letter S ???
i'm seeing letter S in the gear and other letter & number spread out the rotor
Letter C and inverted C letter T and #5 if im not mistaken. How do i classify what I got?
If I buy 1993, is that good enough to say it will work?
I can only see one letter S in the rotor --- is there a code in the rotor other than that letter S ???
i'm seeing letter S in the gear and other letter & number spread out the rotor
Letter C and inverted C letter T and #5 if im not mistaken. How do i classify what I got?
If I buy 1993, is that good enough to say it will work?
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Post a picture up of the damage if you're not sure how bad it is. When in doubt, replace.
The letter codes are A through E. You usually see C weight, it's stamped on one side of the rotor near the side seal slot. A new rotor needs to be the same letter or 1 letter off - if you have a C weight, you can run a C, D, or B rotor.
Search on this, this has been covered quite a bit.
Dale
The letter codes are A through E. You usually see C weight, it's stamped on one side of the rotor near the side seal slot. A new rotor needs to be the same letter or 1 letter off - if you have a C weight, you can run a C, D, or B rotor.
Search on this, this has been covered quite a bit.
Dale
Trending Topics
#8
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Yep, C weight rotor.
If you were trying to go for a budget rebuild, you could file/sand that gouge as smooth as possible and remove any sharp points that could be hotspots for detonation. Or find a good used rotor and there ya go.
If a rotor housing has any sort of gouging on the chrome surface that your fingernail can catch in, it's done. I seriously doubt that housing is any good.
Dale
If you were trying to go for a budget rebuild, you could file/sand that gouge as smooth as possible and remove any sharp points that could be hotspots for detonation. Or find a good used rotor and there ya go.
If a rotor housing has any sort of gouging on the chrome surface that your fingernail can catch in, it's done. I seriously doubt that housing is any good.
Dale
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,601 Likes
on
1,846 Posts
Post a picture up of the damage if you're not sure how bad it is. When in doubt, replace.
The letter codes are A through E. You usually see C weight, it's stamped on one side of the rotor near the side seal slot. A new rotor needs to be the same letter or 1 letter off - if you have a C weight, you can run a C, D, or B rotor.
Search on this, this has been covered quite a bit.
Dale
The letter codes are A through E. You usually see C weight, it's stamped on one side of the rotor near the side seal slot. A new rotor needs to be the same letter or 1 letter off - if you have a C weight, you can run a C, D, or B rotor.
Search on this, this has been covered quite a bit.
Dale
#10
Yeah that rotor could be used again. If you really need to save on money for other parts of the engine. Just smooth the gouge out and make sure there are no sharp or abrupt protrusions in the gouge and try not to take too much more metal away during smoothing.
Bigger thing you should be checking is the seal grooves as per the good advice above. If the seal grooves are not within tolerance spec, the rotors are done for anyways.
I cant see the housing mark very clearly, but it sounds like a dead housing. If you attempt to re-use the housing, you may suffer lowered compression and may damage a seal again. If you can feel the housing damage in any way or it has scored and removed material, junk it for a better housing. Make a nice clock out of it.
Bigger thing you should be checking is the seal grooves as per the good advice above. If the seal grooves are not within tolerance spec, the rotors are done for anyways.
I cant see the housing mark very clearly, but it sounds like a dead housing. If you attempt to re-use the housing, you may suffer lowered compression and may damage a seal again. If you can feel the housing damage in any way or it has scored and removed material, junk it for a better housing. Make a nice clock out of it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
cdn
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
14
09-10-15 06:23 AM
cdn
2nd Generation Non-Technical and pictures
0
08-11-15 08:59 PM