3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Engine Rotor question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-05-13, 09:58 AM
  #1  
Full Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
BusaNostra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: ccc
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Engine Rotor question

I have a deep gouge in my front engine rotor.
Can this be welded - machined & balanced?

the housing is no good too.
Old 11-05-13, 10:17 AM
  #2  
Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
j9fd3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,601 Likes on 1,846 Posts
welding isn't a great idea, but you can smooth it and rebalance. you should probably measure the seal grooves before you do anything else, if those are worn out the rotor was done anyways.
Old 11-05-13, 11:33 AM
  #3  
Full Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
BusaNostra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: ccc
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yeah...it's a deep gouge -- it think its done. I'm just worried to buy another rotor and does not match and more problem.
Old 11-05-13, 12:04 PM
  #4  
Full Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
BusaNostra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: ccc
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If i will buy another rotor - how can i match what i got now?
I can only see one letter S in the rotor --- is there a code in the rotor other than that letter S ???

i'm seeing letter S in the gear and other letter & number spread out the rotor
Letter C and inverted C letter T and #5 if im not mistaken. How do i classify what I got?

If I buy 1993, is that good enough to say it will work?
Old 11-05-13, 12:31 PM
  #5  
RX-7 Bad Ass

iTrader: (55)
 
DaleClark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 15,399
Received 2,438 Likes on 1,509 Posts
Post a picture up of the damage if you're not sure how bad it is. When in doubt, replace.

The letter codes are A through E. You usually see C weight, it's stamped on one side of the rotor near the side seal slot. A new rotor needs to be the same letter or 1 letter off - if you have a C weight, you can run a C, D, or B rotor.

Search on this, this has been covered quite a bit.

Dale
Old 11-05-13, 12:45 PM
  #6  
Full Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
BusaNostra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: ccc
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here is the code two pictures:
Here a letter T

Here is the damage to the rotor deep gouge


...and damge to the rear housing.
Old 11-06-13, 04:56 PM
  #7  
In the burnout box...

iTrader: (32)
 
mono4lamar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 4,453
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
That's a "C" weight rotor. I can't really see how deep the gouge is on the rotor face. Can you get a better picture?
Old 11-07-13, 01:56 PM
  #8  
RX-7 Bad Ass

iTrader: (55)
 
DaleClark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 15,399
Received 2,438 Likes on 1,509 Posts
Yep, C weight rotor.

If you were trying to go for a budget rebuild, you could file/sand that gouge as smooth as possible and remove any sharp points that could be hotspots for detonation. Or find a good used rotor and there ya go.

If a rotor housing has any sort of gouging on the chrome surface that your fingernail can catch in, it's done. I seriously doubt that housing is any good.

Dale
Old 11-07-13, 06:06 PM
  #9  
Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
j9fd3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,601 Likes on 1,846 Posts
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Post a picture up of the damage if you're not sure how bad it is. When in doubt, replace.

The letter codes are A through E. You usually see C weight, it's stamped on one side of the rotor near the side seal slot. A new rotor needs to be the same letter or 1 letter off - if you have a C weight, you can run a C, D, or B rotor.

Search on this, this has been covered quite a bit.

Dale
every replacement rotor is magically a C weight.
Old 11-07-13, 08:16 PM
  #10  
10-8-10-8

 
SA3R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Yeah that rotor could be used again. If you really need to save on money for other parts of the engine. Just smooth the gouge out and make sure there are no sharp or abrupt protrusions in the gouge and try not to take too much more metal away during smoothing.

Bigger thing you should be checking is the seal grooves as per the good advice above. If the seal grooves are not within tolerance spec, the rotors are done for anyways.

I cant see the housing mark very clearly, but it sounds like a dead housing. If you attempt to re-use the housing, you may suffer lowered compression and may damage a seal again. If you can feel the housing damage in any way or it has scored and removed material, junk it for a better housing. Make a nice clock out of it.
Old 11-08-13, 02:21 AM
  #11  
rotary sensei

iTrader: (5)
 
Mr rx-7 tt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Replace it, rotors are cheap.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
cdn
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
14
09-10-15 06:23 AM
cdn
2nd Generation Non-Technical and pictures
0
08-11-15 08:59 PM



Quick Reply: Engine Rotor question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:24 PM.