caffeine655

when pulling an engine from an fd... is it possible to pull the a/c compressor off the block with out losing freon, in preparation for pulling the engine? or is it easier to just bleed/discontect the lines and then pull the engine with the compressor? or must you pull it off to allow the engine to move forward to allow clutch to decompress?
kinda at a stand still, im not sure which is the best route...
thanks
greg

xstacy7

When I pulled my engine, I left the compressor IN the car, however I wasn't able to see if it still held freon or not. I was replacing an A/C hose that was ripped so it never worked anyways. I think it might still hold your freon, I mean it's not connected to the block in any way other than 4 long screws. I'm not sure what you mean by allowing the clutch to decompress?

Hope that helps a little

Jack

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure about the A/C, but you should pull the engine with the tranny attached. It would be much easier to line up the tranny with the new engine (I'm assuming you are swapping) with the engine out of the car. Plus, you don't have to struggle getting the correct torque on some of those bell housing bolts located in some places not so easy to get to while the engine is installed.

puma

iTrader: (2)

you need to leave the AC compressor and all the lines in the car, along with the power steering system.
you only have 3 or 4 bolts and you remove the AC compressor from the engine, and the belt of course.

xstacy7

I agree with Mahjik, I've heard it was easy to pull the engine with and without the tranny attached. I searched around and saw it was a tad bit easier pulling the engine without the tranny attached and putting the engine back in with the tranny attached. That's what I did and I'll tell you...put the tranny on BEFORE you put it BACK in the car...it's so much easier. Me being the dumbass I am, I had the wonderful experience of putting the engine/tranny in and then having to take the transmission out by itself from underneath the car b/c of a freaking snap ring. And if you're thinking the clutch, just pull the slave cylinder out and tie it up and leave it IN the car...you'll be set

Jack

duboisr

My mechanic takes the trans loose from the motor , takes the 4 bolts off the PS, then lifts the motor up alittle . Then out come the 4 bolts for the Ac unit. The AC and PS pump are set over to the side and the motor is taken out. Install is the reverse .

caffeine655

thats good, thats what i thought, thanks for the help guys... i got to get this car running again soon, any other advice or things to watch out for?

swbrad

Pull the engine harness with the engine. Just be patient removing the wiring through the fire wall. You may need to tape some of them to keep from scuffing the insulation. Putting them back was eased a bit with a little lubrication.

Good Luck!

xstacy7

If your going to pull the engine without the tranny attached, make sure you watch out for...

1) Transmission wiring harness
2) Clutch Slave
3) Throwout Bearing being released
4) Make sure P/S and A/C are held close to the sidewall to make clearance for the engine to come out
5) Starter "harness" (2 wires)

that's all I can think of right now, do a search on the throwout bearing "releaseage" and you'll be fine. I've done it a number of times so if you can't figure it out just ask me.

Hope that helps a little

Jack

edscholl

tie the ps pump and ac compressor off to the side. when you think you have everything disconnected, lift the engine a couple inches and take a look around the engine and transmission. then disconnect everything you forgot to disconnect. =) when pulling the wiring harness through the firewall, don't be afraid to give it a good yank. i was trying to baby that POS out of there, but finally just gave the engine hoist a few more cranks and the **** slid right out. =)

spoolage

iTrader: (2)

wow.... I wish I had left my wiring harness attached.... guys, how hard is it to get the wiring harness all hooked back up on an engine onces its been removed... rut ro

xstacy7

Make sure you put something around your harness like a sock or something of the sort to protect it and so you don't rip any wires, it's the main harness and you don't want to F that one over. I'll tell ya, just make sure you label EVERY** connector in there, it helps SOO much. The more connectors you unhook...the harder it is to get the "harness all hooked back up on the engine once it's been removed." If you don't unhook any of the solenoid connectors (on the rack) you should be ok...just make sure you LABEL THEM!!!

Jack

xstacy7

hahahaha I've got a picture for you guys, This made my day

WVRx7

The suggestions to pull with the tranny attached sound like words from God.

I think this is something that can truly go either way. Pulling the transmission is a lot more work (PPF, driveshaft, shifter, tranny fluid, etc.)

I have pulled (or been involved with pulling) at least 6 FD engines. We have never pulled the tranny at the same time.

Lining up the bellhousing and clutch is elementary if you do things correctly. Plus, the bellhousing bolts are simple to get to.

I can see some people thinking its easier, but unless there is work to do to the transmission I see no reason to pull it out of the top.

xstacy7

Then again, I had to do a second gear synchro...so I was going to pull it anyways. Still I did it both and Tranny attached* when going back into the car is much easier.

Jack

caffeine655

ok, i got the ps and a/c comp off... i decided to leave the tranny in the car, now any suggestions on getting to those bell housing bolts? how do you guys get to them?
thanks for all the tips so far... my plans are to rebuild the engine and put a mild streetport in as well as waste gate port, so the atkins video should come in handy (on its way).

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

lol, that's what I was talking about when getting to those bolts (and a good reason to pull the tranny with the engine if you don't have a lot of good tools).

Well, on the upper bolts, it's easier to get to them with the UIM off. You can use an open face 14mm wrench and then slip a pipe on the end to get some length and torque. That will break them loose. You should be able to get them out with your hand after that.

The one above the starter is a pita unless you have the correct tools. I used the same method as above to break it loose. If you have a LONG extension for a socket, you can probably get enough room to get to it around the slave cylinder.

The remain two on the bottom are a no brainer. Good luck!