dubulup

could it be white with oil/grime/filth stained? Or white baked to brown? haha!

CosmoRx

it may just be haha. I will double check today when I get a chance to work on it. If not, I wonder why my harness would deviate from the standard colors?

CosmoRx

Ok, ive triple checked.. its very brown, Ive found the brown wire in the harness loom, but it has like silver painted stripes on it, is that the same wire?

dubulup

I'm willing to bet it's white baked brown.

I was working on a harness Saturday that was so baked blue/yellow wire was black/white, and a few others were faded bad. Try to find a way to perform a continuity check...ohms

CosmoRx

ok, thanks again for all the help

CosmoRx

I know this is a bit of a dumb question, but does the knock sensor actually affect drivability? Like does it actually change timing on fly or does the computer run a set timing map? I guess is what im asking is at this point I dont see any easy fix until I can afford a new engine harness. Thanks for any input.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you have an aftermarket ECU like the PFC, some of them ignore the knock sensor for any kind of retarding (however they display the reading). The stock ECU uses it and will put the car into limp mode without it.

CosmoRx

Its running a M2 Stage 3 Ecu, Im assuming it will react like the stock?

CosmoRx

In a effort to see if I could run a newwire I t-clipped the sensor and the white wire and got no results. The interesting part is the fact that the actual engine harness side wire where the sensor broke off is actually brown, not white and I even tried cutting into the brown insulation to check if the wire was baked brown but still, the insulation was brown as well. So as of right now, I still have a CEL, and cant figure out what to do without replacing the harness which I dont have the money for right now. Ive done the ecu resetting to double check the code is still throwing with the tclip wire I ran. If its safe to drive with the CEL I will if I have to, but I really get annoyed by the light

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it will react like the stock ECU.

At this point, IMO, you should pull the harness out of the car and do some testing/fixing. If you don't have the money to buy a new one (or a used one in good condition), you are going to have to repair yours.

CosmoRx

About how much would it cost to buy one new? I had heard it was around 600 bucks.

Edit: And Im assuming malloy mazda would probably be the best priced?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

IIRC, its a little over $700 from Ray at Malloy Mazda.

CosmoRx

Ouch, Might as well sell the M2 Ecu and pick up a microtech at that rate..