Electrical Issue: Need verification
I'm willing to bet it's white baked brown.
I was working on a harness Saturday that was so baked blue/yellow wire was black/white, and a few others were faded bad. Try to find a way to perform a continuity check...ohms
I was working on a harness Saturday that was so baked blue/yellow wire was black/white, and a few others were faded bad. Try to find a way to perform a continuity check...ohms
I know this is a bit of a dumb question, but does the knock sensor actually affect drivability? Like does it actually change timing on fly or does the computer run a set timing map? I guess is what im asking is at this point I dont see any easy fix until I can afford a new engine harness. Thanks for any input.
If you have an aftermarket ECU like the PFC, some of them ignore the knock sensor for any kind of retarding (however they display the reading). The stock ECU uses it and will put the car into limp mode without it.
In a effort to see if I could run a newwire I t-clipped the sensor and the white wire and got no results. The interesting part is the fact that the actual engine harness side wire where the sensor broke off is actually brown, not white and I even tried cutting into the brown insulation to check if the wire was baked brown but still, the insulation was brown as well. So as of right now, I still have a CEL, and cant figure out what to do without replacing the harness which I dont have the money for right now. Ive done the ecu resetting to double check the code is still throwing with the tclip wire I ran. If its safe to drive with the CEL I will if I have to, but I really get annoyed by the light
Originally Posted by CosmoRx
Its running a M2 Stage 3 Ecu, Im assuming it will react like the stock?
Originally Posted by CosmoRx
In a effort to see if I could run a newwire I t-clipped the sensor and the white wire and got no results. The interesting part is the fact that the actual engine harness side wire where the sensor broke off is actually brown, not white and I even tried cutting into the brown insulation to check if the wire was baked brown but still, the insulation was brown as well. So as of right now, I still have a CEL, and cant figure out what to do without replacing the harness which I dont have the money for right now. Ive done the ecu resetting to double check the code is still throwing with the tclip wire I ran. If its safe to drive with the CEL I will if I have to, but I really get annoyed by the light 

Originally Posted by CosmoRx
About how much would it cost to buy one new? I had heard it was around 600 bucks.
Edit: And Im assuming malloy mazda would probably be the best priced?
Edit: And Im assuming malloy mazda would probably be the best priced?
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rotor_veux
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Sep 28, 2015 09:25 PM




