donrafa7

iTrader: (6)

So im trying to layout some future electrical work. I need a few 12v igntion switches and 12v sources:
Boost gauge, oil temperature gauge, Wideband, FJO water injection pump/controller, Fuel pump rewire (with relay)

In total i count 4 ignition switched sources and 3 regular 12v sources (well i think all 7 can be ignition switched since i dont need any memory.

I know im gonnna need a a 30 amp source for FP and a 15 amp fuse for my WI pump, all others are less than 10 amps
I also currently have an optima pc680 in stock tray.


This is what i'm thinking
Relocate battery to bin or trunk. Run a STINGER SPT53102 which has 4 outputs. Run 1 8awg output to 5 Pole RELAY>FP, 1 8awg output to 5 Pole Relay>WI pump, 1-0awg output to 150 amp breaker to starter, 1-4 awg to a Painless wiring 7 fused terminal 70107 located under the dash then to all the guages/ additional accessories in engine bay etc.

Issues with above setup that i can see, 150 amp breaker does not directly isolate FP WI or anything hooked up to painless Fuse ***the relays on the FP, WI pump and the 4 of the ignition switched items on the Painless block will not be activated since ignition will be cut, im thinking ill be allright.****

What do you guys think/recommend so i only have to do this wiring once.

PS i hate electrical , but i hate paying for stuff i can do myself even more haha

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

Why not use the stock fuse box (the one that bolts to the positive battery terminal) instead of that stinger crap? That way you have some protection for all of your circuits as close to the battery as possible, plus you'll have a few extra slots for future expansion, if needed.

The only drawback to this is that these are actually fusible links, not fuses.....that means they tolerate more over-current than a standard fuse would.

whitelight7

iTrader: (5)

I am a big fan of doing the job right with good components, but still think some of your ideas are overkill - IMO.
I am not a fan of relocating the battery. That takes a lot of heavy wiring, and most of the electrical needs are towards the front of the car. These cars are already 50/50 wt. balanced.
You could use smaller wires sizes, saves $ and weight. Gauges and WB use a steady current, so they don't need oversized wiring (like audio amps). 10-GA wire is plenty for 30A, and 14-16GA is good for 15A in this application. One circuit is good for all those gauges.
Use regular/fast fuses for gauges and wideband, use slow-blo fuses for fuel and WI pumps.
Relays are good for distributing power, but don't think you need 5 pole relays.
Not clear what the 150A circuit is for? Good luck with your project.

donrafa7

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for tips, was thinking of using that heavier gage wire as that is what the stinger terminal has as outputs, (set screw type). Ill probably go smaller on the gage if its a good connection. The 150 amp breaker is what was recommended by mconner when moving battery to bins (protects in case of wire between batt and starter shorts). Plus its a manual disconnect which makes it easy to disconnect power while working on car. I might be confusing the 5 pole relay name but I believe its a standard bosch type relay that azeknights and dale clark recommend when rewiring feul pump and fjo manual recommends for wi pump install. I've been reading a lot , maybe too much for my own good.

I might leave the battery where its at as its alread a small batt and I've got an asp med that fits. If i go this route the gauge/fuse block I'm debating wether to put it in cabin and run a few wires to engine or place in bay and run wires to gauges thru firewall/fender hole.

Just trying to plan ahead, measure twice cut once with this electrical project

donrafa7

iTrader: (6)

Also when you say 1 circuit are you saying to jusr wire them off same 12v source? If so is the free 12v by the foot rest enough, I figure they don't draw anywhere near 10 amps combined. If so this would make my life much easier