Either a Vac Leak or Bad ECU or something?!
#51
TANSTAFL
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well I tried pulling engine codes... the darn light goes out after 2 seconds, then turns on and stays solid. I have no clue what that means... all I know from reading around
The light going out after 2 seconds means that nothing is stored...
I pulled that diagram and that's how I'm tracing it. I got silicone tubing coming and I"m going to slowly replace each one
and you read my mind... I have new plugs and new oil filter, ready to tune up the darn thing. The wires are magnecor wires, so I know they are good, from the RX7 Store.net
The light going out after 2 seconds means that nothing is stored...
I pulled that diagram and that's how I'm tracing it. I got silicone tubing coming and I"m going to slowly replace each one
and you read my mind... I have new plugs and new oil filter, ready to tune up the darn thing. The wires are magnecor wires, so I know they are good, from the RX7 Store.net
I forgot to mention compression testing too. You might want to check compression before you try to fix your low vacuum.
If your seals and sealing surfaces are the cause of your low vac, you will have wasted all that time one the hoses for nothing.
#52
RIP IceMark
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Ok, so yup, Fail at the vacuum hoses...
I'm going to run a compression test next week. If it fails the compression test, then new motor.
If it doesn't fail the compression test... I got something else wrong.
The vacuum at idle sitting at a stand still is -12 to -13
under load it goes up to -20.
Not good because I contained all the vacuum leaks and re ran hoses and redid how it was supposed to be set up from factory
Now here is another interesting tid bit... I just started noticing
The ast connects to the radiator fill... where you test for champagne bubbles...
That over flows a little bit and I see coolant slightly leaking from there..
When the car is warmed up...
the motor has 49,000 miles on it it's the original motor... might be time for a rebuild?
Just wondering
Jack
I'm going to run a compression test next week. If it fails the compression test, then new motor.
If it doesn't fail the compression test... I got something else wrong.
The vacuum at idle sitting at a stand still is -12 to -13
under load it goes up to -20.
Not good because I contained all the vacuum leaks and re ran hoses and redid how it was supposed to be set up from factory
Now here is another interesting tid bit... I just started noticing
The ast connects to the radiator fill... where you test for champagne bubbles...
That over flows a little bit and I see coolant slightly leaking from there..
When the car is warmed up...
the motor has 49,000 miles on it it's the original motor... might be time for a rebuild?
Just wondering
Jack
#54
RIP IceMark
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Ok, sooooo checked the compression today...
Motor is done...
30-60-90 is what is reads... which means one of the seals is stuck or something...
Well
Thanks for everything guys!!!
Sparkplugs are BLACK!!!
Motor is done...
30-60-90 is what is reads... which means one of the seals is stuck or something...
Well
Thanks for everything guys!!!
Sparkplugs are BLACK!!!
#55
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first of all hey everyone,
i just bought my first rotary a couple of weeks ago, i have learnt heaps about the car as im having the same problem, when the engine is cold everything works fine, after a while the engine warms up and the first turbo wont boost, when it would normaly make release it makes a different noise more like a struggling boooooo noise, when you turn the car off and on again the car misses and pops big time tho if you turn the key of and on again quickly so the engine doesnt actualy stop the car runs up to normal rev range tho it still wont boost and makes the same noise as before,
experts have looked at it but unsure what it is, car is on warranty its a 2002 series 8, any ideas guys or if you have fixed your problem
i just bought my first rotary a couple of weeks ago, i have learnt heaps about the car as im having the same problem, when the engine is cold everything works fine, after a while the engine warms up and the first turbo wont boost, when it would normaly make release it makes a different noise more like a struggling boooooo noise, when you turn the car off and on again the car misses and pops big time tho if you turn the key of and on again quickly so the engine doesnt actualy stop the car runs up to normal rev range tho it still wont boost and makes the same noise as before,
experts have looked at it but unsure what it is, car is on warranty its a 2002 series 8, any ideas guys or if you have fixed your problem
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