otterball21

iTrader: (7)

no I don't drive it hard when it's cold...

But when you drive up and down small hills, the car goes into boost a little bit... and it didn't hesitate or anything.

Now what happens is once the engine has fully warmed up, and the needle is in the middle on the temp gauge, the car bogs, and pops

I know the car didn't loose compression and blew a seal.

The Vacuum line is dangling right now. So here is the thing.

I am going to replace each one of these hoses with silicone hoses , however I'm trying to find a hose kit to replace each one, but I can't find a kit on like rx7store or anything.

Cause there are a BUNCH of them I want to have that small size and replace each one slowly. and restore the vacuum system back to original, cause this is making me mad, The previous owner just ran vacuum lines where ever to make things work however.


Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I'm going to tune up the car, build a common ground system for the front engine bay, and also change plugs, wires, and get a twin charge system or is there any ignition system that I should get?

I'm also going to put in a FMIC and install the AST I have


So if anyone can point me the right direction for Silcone hosing and Ignition systems

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so I finally found the hose techiques on rx7store.net...

Good grief! I'm going to check the autoparts store first... my god that is expensive...

But if anyone has a good ignition system to point me out to or want to sell.. let me know..

Jack

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Are you still running the precat? If so you should get a downsipe. And you should also check to see if your main cat is clogged.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Hks Twin power. Though an ignition amp isn't really needed at this point for the mods you have. I would save up and get a pfc first or some kind of aftermarket ecu. The ignition system really doesn't need upgraded until you turn up the boost. But before you turn up the boost you need an ecu, larger intercooler and prob bigger injectors, larger radiator should be soon on the list too

7dust

iTrader: (14)

I had the same symptoms and for me it turned out to be a fuel pump on the way out.

It was terribly difficult to diagnose because I was looking in the wrong place the whole time. The pump was working but apparently not consistently. The car also idled like ****.

I diagnosed the problem by jumpering the fuel pump on at high speed and the idle smoothed out just a little.

Replacing the fuel pump made all the difference for me. Besides, I wanted a Walbro anyway.

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

I have a Bonez 3 inch Downpipe and hollowed out Cat/midpipe

And I DO have a Apexi Power FC.
The darn thing burned and I sent it out to get repaired, it's gonna take three months!

The boost was upped to 13 PSI with the Power FC in.

I'm looking for the twin ignition
and a FMIC

Well I'll take a look at the fuel pump, it was upgraded to a walbro already, the 255lph. But who knows it could be going bad...

(How did you jumper the fuel pump?)

7dust

iTrader: (14)

^^^ You can jumper the fuel pump to low or high speed in the diagnostics port - it was in the FSM

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

A few things:

1. For a stock ported motor, that vacuum at idle (if your idle is around 800 rpms) is low.

2. Technically, you haven't done a compression test which provides actual numbers. The poor-man test is usually done after you have rebuilt an engine just to make sure you are building any compression at all. There can technically still be low enough compression to cause issues.

I would suggest you start with doing a vacuum hose job. If buying the Hose Techniques kit is too much money, you might want to think about selling the car as is since most other part prices are much more expensive.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Sounds like you are just in limp mode and someone either threw in a PFC to get past it or they never installed resistors in the wiring harness if the car is non-sequential.

To the guy pulling the knock sensor code, that is also your problem, replace it and you should be good to go, it will throw the car into limp mode.

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

There are no resistors in the wiring harness from what I can see...

I am willing to keep the car, and yep I noticed everything is super expensive,
Sigh... this car has sucked 3000 out of my pocket to just get back onto the road.
I could have titled my skyline r33 for 2000 and I traded for the rx7... but it's still well worth it in my opinion..

I'm in the love hate relationship of my car..


The compression should be fine, because the PFC ran fine.

Now I'm just running the stock ECU and the car is coughing like non other.


Here are my first steps:
re do all the vacuum lines. Cause obviously I have a leak and the previous owner moron that ran the vacuum lines all different places made this car run awful. So time to redo what he did wrong.



thanks for all the help guys
Jack

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

you can get silicone vacuum hoses from different places and cut it all to length yourself. i never looked at that kit to see what its about but vacuum hose isnt THAT expensive, though u will want to check things and you might break some nipples off of solenoids in the process so be prepared for that.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

So is the car still sequential with all emmissions? If not, you need to install the resistors.

Also have you ran the codes yet? The PFC doesnt really care what you have hooked up and what you dont.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Regardless of the ECU, your idle vacuum should be higher on stock ports. Was the vacuum this low with the PFC?


Did you ever check for ECU codes like I suggested last week?

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...98&postcount=6

As mentioned already in this thread, the PFC ignores a lot of stuff the stock ECU will not. Depending on what these car, they can/will cause the car to run badly (i.e. limp mode).

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

Well I haven't gotten a chance to do research on how to pull the ecu codes.

Since it's OBD I I ran around my area trying to locate someone that could read it. Even the mazda dealer couldn't do it, because their "machine is broken"

I haven't searched online how to read the ECU codes yet.


The Vacuum reading was the same on the PFC I think, however now that everyone told me that vacuum is low, I can hear the sucking when I lean in above the rat's nest, so I know there is a leak.... but now I noticed that when it cold starts... it reads -14 and then when it's at running temp -10 in bars of mercury..


think I can pointed in the right direction for ECU code reading?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Did you look in the FAQ thread?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

It has the answers to a majority of the basic questions.

http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so I went out and "attempted" to remove the top of the manifold, and it was connected via the vacuum lines and strap and I didn't take off the throttle body so it was having a little trouble. I traced the vacuum leak.

The Double throttle control selenoid, the hose that connects to the upper manifold it snapped the nipple on the double throttle control selenoid. Is there any way to replace just that selenoid, I tried to push the selenoid off the rail that it's mounted, however it doesn't want to come off..

or do I have to replace the whole rat's nest?

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

oh I tried to pull the engine codes, ... I do the jumper trick.

The check engine light stays on for 2 seconds and then shuts off. Then it turns on and stays on... no flashes..

What does that mean?!

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

So now I'm just waiting for the silicone parts to redo the vacuum lines,

I'm trying to remove the rat's nest and replace it with another rat's nest or repair the selenoid and fix the plastic nipple on the Dual Throttle control selenoid...

So I'll see how it goes.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

just remove the double throttle stuff, while your at it bypass the throttle body coolant line, and the AWS.

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

the AWS?

run that by me.... too many different acronyms I'm going nuts.. lol

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

accelerated warm-up solenoid...

That said, I don't think removing and bypassing **** is going to be any help to you.

Here:

- figure out the codes
- fix the vac lines. there are some color coded diagrams out there. do a google search of the web for rx-7 vacuum hose diagram or find the diagram for whatever setup you have.
- tune it up. new plugs and new wires while you have the UIM off.

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

well I tried pulling engine codes... the darn light goes out after 2 seconds, then turns on and stays solid. I have no clue what that means... all I know from reading around

The light going out after 2 seconds means that nothing is stored...


I pulled that diagram and that's how I'm tracing it. I got silicone tubing coming and I"m going to slowly replace each one

and you read my mind... I have new plugs and new oil filter, ready to tune up the darn thing. The wires are magnecor wires, so I know they are good, from the RX7 Store.net

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

So when you start the car, the Check Engine Light stays on constantly?

otterball21

iTrader: (7)

after the car warms up, it turns on and it stays on..

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a wiring issue. When I've had that in the past, it was an issue with the wiring harness.