Hi guys, wondering if anyone here is familiar with the stock door locking setup, that could give me some input?

We have been looking at the stock system and trying to find a way to trigger it electronically for keyless entry, but it seems to be a bit odd in that AFAIK the system does not just change states based on a position of a trigger.

It seems to use caps to charge the circuit, then trigger for both directions lock/unlock.

Can anyone that knows this system give some details on how to trigger it properly electronically?

The existing system that I have now, is that I have tied a passenger side JDM door locking motor into the US LHD system and it works wonderfully for the manual positioning of the door locks. But we have run into issues trying to trigger the stock lock actuators for a keyless entry system.

Also does anyone know if there is an electrical schematic for the 99 keyless entry kit available anywhere or know anyone that has it and could make a scan of the schematic, or have any information pertaining to actuating the stock system remotely?

Any help locating the info for this issue would be greatly appreciated !

Lock Actuator Scematic

 

you should be able to make it lock by grounding g/y at X20. mind telling me where you got the rhd lock actuator?

 

Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be that easy!
As I was trying to explain ^ , is that it is not as easy as just triggering the actuator by the state of the ”door lock switch LH” if you will notice there are capacitors “C1” and “C2” in the “door lock timer unit” that is somehow mucking up the circuit.

It appears that the circuit must charge off the current state the lock position is in and then it can throw the actuator, ie simply grounding out “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” on the “door lock switch LH” does not work.

What must be done to make the circuit work is “G/R” must be held to “B” (allowing it to charge) and then “G/R” must be released from “B” and then immediately switched to “G/Y” & “B” or vise versa to make the circuit operate in the desired manner from a locked state to an unlocked state.

So if there are any EE’s out there, or people that have dealt with this seemingly odd circuit that can explain how to make this thing work properly I am all ears, because this thing is quite frankly a little frustrating to say the least…

 

First off, I'd like to post some pictures for everyone's viewing pleasure of the JDM LH lock actuator/latch.
Side by side, note the motor assembly in the lower part of the pictures


Here is where it got interesting for me. These are switches on the USDM latch. This first microswitch gives the signal to lock/unlock the passenger door.

This one is hiding behind the metal, it goes to the alarm. It's called "Door outer handle switch, not exactly sure what it does but I suspect it has something to do with turning on the keyhole light when you pull the door handle up.

The only wires on the JDM latch go right into the actuator motor. No switches.

Before anyone suggests otherwise I can see no way to get those switches on the JDM actuator, I looked and it would take a monumental effort.

Let's ignore the last switch for now (I don't think it matters), the first microswitch is the function we have to duplicate to make the doors unlock. My suggestion is to wire the JDM actuator wires in parallel with the RH one by splicing in at connector K2-01, wires O & G . This might require a larger fuse for the 10amp door lock one, not sure the current on these things.

I'm not sure how the outputs on alarms work for the lock/unlock signal. If it is a voltage pulse, either positive or negative then I think we would need a relay similar to this (shamelessly stolen and modified in paint)


Well, nevermind on that. That won't maintain the ground to the lock or unlock, hence not charging the caps. I think we will need a latching relay, or some sort of assembly of relays to make that. I'm going to forward this to my EE brother, he'll know what to do.

 

I have done the "mod" to my car with the help of petros_rx7,i will inform him about this thread,he did all the electrical magic.

 

Can you please post the electronic schematic from your key less entry?
You dont need the mazda lock control unit you have to remove it.
First of all you need two wires connected to new driver door actuator.Because there are no backup wires from door harness you have to choose what function you dont really need.
On efso car we use the door lock switch wires , so this fuctions didnt work any more,and on my car I use the power wires from bose amplifier,I dont have the bose system thats why.
After that you have to find the wires on dash harness door connector if you choose like efso the wires from door lock switch its on door lock controller connector the G/Y and G/R wires so it is more easy to connect the new controller.
Now you have 4 wires 2 from passenger door actuator ORANGE AND GREEN and The new 2 wires from driver door actuator,if you choose like efso to use the door lock switch is on the same connector on oem lock controller
You have to connected in parallel the two actuators just bridge the connector and before connected to your key less control unit take a multimeter and check what output of your key less entry change to +,- when you lock and -,+ when you unlock.
Then connect this output to your actuators and you are finish.
If your keyless entry have and alarm flash trigger you have to connect the + outputs from your control unit to flasher unit on cpu no2 to G/B wire and the other output to G/W.
Let me know if you have any problems.

 

Ah, OK. So remove the factory timer unit from the whole equation! I guess the aftermarket keyless entry/alarms drive the lock/unlock signal long enough for the motor in the actuator to lock/unlock the doors.

My only question is without the door unlock signal on G/R going to CPU 2 how will the factory alarm work? My guess is that without getting that switch to trigger somehow it won't.

 

Eu spec fd3s didnt have oem alarm system.So here in europe we dont have to care about that.

But if you want to trigger with negative pulse G/R wire is easy to do it with 2 diodes and a bipolar capacitor.Or much better with 555 timer so you can adjust more easy and the time of trigering.

 

When I bought my car it had an aftermarket alarm with keyless entry. It didn't work correctly (alarm would go off for no reason) so I took it all out. Attached is a pic of the actuator I took out for the driver's door. Not sure how the aftermarket system integrated with the stock. After removing the aftermarket system my stock alarm worked fine.