Dual oil cooler mod.. WOW!
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Home of the Rolex 24
Dual oil cooler mod.. WOW!
Thanks to Howard Coleman for his previous thread on dual oil coolers cheap. I purchased my car w/ a B.S. dual oil cooler set-up. They were too small, not positioned correctly and not ducted at all. The only thing useable were the ss braid lines to and from the coolers. Bottom line my oil temps. were 185 to 210 cruising which is ok. When doing hard runs it woud instantly creep up tp 230-250. Yikes! Along w/ the oil temps. went the coolant temps. I purchased 2 stock oil coolers and changed the fittings to allow ss braided -8 lines. Had to get the brackets to fit in the stock location. Also added the cooler and brake ducts to my 99 spec undertray. I just went for a run and my cruising oil temps were 140 to 165. I beat the living hell out of the car keeping over 5000 rpms and for a minute along w/ multiple WOT pulls and it never went over 185. I think it may even be too cold. The outside temp is 60 F. I cant wait to see the difference next summer! Thanks again Howard. G
I would bet that those running a single oil cooler in stock configuration wouldn't find 250 to be that unusual for oil temperature. Very few if any of us other than track event drivers even monitor it, though allot of us would like to do the dual oil cooler mod for reliability very few of us get around to it.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Home of the Rolex 24
It would get up there at any temp outside if I stayed on the hard throttle long enough. Obvoiusly qucker in the summer months. I dont driver the car much in the summer though. Beating on the stock twins creates alot of heat. The old set up was terrible.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Home of the Rolex 24
Crusing temps. were ok 185 to 200. As soon as I blasted the throttle the coolers couldnt keep up.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Home of the Rolex 24
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Home of the Rolex 24
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+coolers+cheap
A couple things to add.
1. Make sure you get new crushwashers w/ the fittings for proper seal. Pegasus has them as well.
2. Make sure your lines are long enough to work around the brake/ cooler ducts and undertray. SS line is not good to flex tight.
3. I used 90 degree fittings on my line from the 1st cooler to the 2nd.
A couple things to add.
1. Make sure you get new crushwashers w/ the fittings for proper seal. Pegasus has them as well.
2. Make sure your lines are long enough to work around the brake/ cooler ducts and undertray. SS line is not good to flex tight.
3. I used 90 degree fittings on my line from the 1st cooler to the 2nd.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
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From: Florence, Alabama
thanks for the props and i am real happy you like the setup.
there are lots of available driver's side oil coolers from parted out FD's out there that can be had pretty inexpensively. (mine cost zero). most have flattened fins but are in excellent condition. 30 minutes w a small tool while you are watching the Speed Channel and they are as good as new. each cooler has a thermostatic bypass that aids warmup.
read the thread, assemble your parts, around $200, spend a week of your spare time and you will have a first class cooler setup.
there have been lots of requests to see how i did the brackets for the pass side cooler. i am overdue on this but will remove my nose and post pics and further details during the month of January. so get cracking, read the thread, assemble the parts and you will have the details in Jan. (it is pretty much a hand tools deal)
given the rotary's heat generation and dependency on oil for cooling V a piston engine the R1 setup should have been on every FD.
hc
there are lots of available driver's side oil coolers from parted out FD's out there that can be had pretty inexpensively. (mine cost zero). most have flattened fins but are in excellent condition. 30 minutes w a small tool while you are watching the Speed Channel and they are as good as new. each cooler has a thermostatic bypass that aids warmup.
read the thread, assemble your parts, around $200, spend a week of your spare time and you will have a first class cooler setup.
there have been lots of requests to see how i did the brackets for the pass side cooler. i am overdue on this but will remove my nose and post pics and further details during the month of January. so get cracking, read the thread, assemble the parts and you will have the details in Jan. (it is pretty much a hand tools deal)
given the rotary's heat generation and dependency on oil for cooling V a piston engine the R1 setup should have been on every FD.
hc
-bill
It is the Rotary Extreme kit that Chuck made, I am not sure on thread sizes as I am not very familiar with them but I am sure if you search on the forum there should be threads on them when Chuck first made the kit.
Earlier this year I removed the stock (touring) oil cooler and installed two Mocal 19 row coolers.
The car has a new Pineapple street port, single T04S, Greddy 2 row FMIC.
On a hot day (90+) I pushed it fairly hard for a new engine, 6500 RPM for a few minutes.
Oil temps never exceeded 210, coolant was about 215.
Oil coolers can make a big difference.
The car has a new Pineapple street port, single T04S, Greddy 2 row FMIC.
On a hot day (90+) I pushed it fairly hard for a new engine, 6500 RPM for a few minutes.
Oil temps never exceeded 210, coolant was about 215.
Oil coolers can make a big difference.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Home of the Rolex 24
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 7
From: Home of the Rolex 24
I'll check it out. Thats wayy to pricey for something like that Imo. I looked up the Earl's and there about 175-205 each + fittings and all it should be around 450-525 for the whole setup. (dual 25 row ~ btw)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,067
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From: Home of the Rolex 24
Yup. The oil cooler ducts are stuffed in there. They look horrible I might add. Is there anything tht fits properly? The rotary extreme ones dont either. G







