I agree for the most part, however I don't see that I was misleading anyone. The factory ECU allows max boost of 10.7(max rpm), or 11.2 (mid rpm) . When you boost spike during transition it ignores that for a fuel cut however when you boost spike at max RPM for a sustained amount of time it creates fuel cut just like I stated.
The PFC comes with a starting map from some of the places you buy it from. you tell them your mods, and they give you a starting point map. Not saying it's perfect, but it's better than the potentially lean Factory ECU at that time. On the stock fuel system you are good for around 12psi, however the PFC doesn't fuel cut at 10.7, so anything above 12 psi will max out your injectors even with the PFC, and cause you to lean out.
The PFC is good for when you have the money to switch the injectors as well. The 16psi for the boost sensor is the point that the factory boost sensor can't make any further readings, so the PFC only sees 16psi.
Hope that clarified what I was trying to say.

 

Ah, but a boost spike is just that -- a spike, not a continuous overboost. A spike can kill your motor and the stock ecu does nothing to stop it. That's what I found misleading in your post.

Also, I will disagree that getting a PFC map by mail is better than the stock ecu map, which will not be lean at 10 psi. There are MANY people on this forum who have blown or almost blown engines from "tune by mail" maps. IMO, you are better off using the base map or downloading a map from someone who is running the exact same setup as a starting point.

Your comments regarding the stock map sensor are correct.

 

"Tune by mail" is a great way to throw your hard earned cash directly in the *******.

Rich

 

true I have heard the same with tune by mail, however from my experience it has been a good thing. I've converted to non seq so the boost spike in transition isn't what I was refering too. More like boost creep for me. I went back and reread my post though, so I can see where a few things I said could be taken out of context from what I was refering too. I'm just glad this guy is getting the info he needs. If I were to do this again though, I would hold off on the PFC until I could afford the Fuel system as well. Because for the PFC you can only go up another 1 psi, and even then you risk your duty cycle, so your not getting that much bang for your buck for the 1300 you shelled out.

 

Well, don't forget the commander precludes the expense of a boost gauge, water temp gauge, and a/f gauge. Not only that, but it cures the 3k rpm hesitation and gives you an almost foolproof engine kill--I call it the 500 rpm limiter "you ain't stealin' my rex no how no way sucka (unless you got a flatbed)" trick .

Who tuned you by mail? XS Engineering basically stole my money out of my wallet.

 

I had Ray at SRX7.com tune mine a while back for DP,MP, Non Seq Block off plates, intake and exhaust. The basics. The car ran better in my opinion afterwards, but now it's supposed to be getting tuned by KD for the single. I will know very soon whether it will be though, because they are having problems with the wastegate, and I'm losing patience. Might have them put on a starting map and start tweaking it from there my self with a wideband, after I figure out what's going on with the wastegate.