I'm looking to finally start modding out the car. Got a paint job coming up soon but then after the stereo and the paint are done i'm going performance. Which downpipe(s) are most recommended? How hard is a downpipe to install by oneself? I haven't messed with anything like that before but I can't imagine it being too hard.

 

All aftermarket downpipes are pretty much the same, typically the name brands are a better fit though, but thats if you want to spend the extra $$$. Its not THAT hard to install, just time consuming and annoying since everything is rusted and in a small space.

 

It's a pain in the *** with our cars to take them off if it hasn't been done in a while. Use plenty of carb cleaner or anything else to get into the rust, that way you don't break off the studs on the turbos (Be gentle! If it doesn't want to go, spray it some more and let it soak in). Like Mako said, fitment may be the only issue you run into. I got the megan racing dp/mp combo and it was cheap as hell and went on perfectly, some people didn't have the luck with installation as I did. As long as as the brand name or generic parts are made of good materials, they will be pretty similar.

 

I haven't had to replace my DP yet, so I can't help you there. But someone here on the forum recommended "PB BLASTER" penetrating oil for rusty stuff. I bought some from O'Reilly's to use on another car of mine and the stuff is great. Might be the way to go on those studs.

 

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=30&mnu=5

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...downpipe+write

 

when installing a downpipe, are you removing the pre-cat?

 

Yes, its built into the orginal piece.

 

Really, it's not too bad. Give yourself some additional time, since it will be your first time messing with it.

I recommend a breaker bar for the nuts connecting to the cat too. The first time I installed my DP I almost used a can of spray trying to loosen it up with a standard ratchet and it wouldn't budge. (I kept sliding on my creeper, though) :-) One minute with a breaker bar (and a loud squeeeeeek) and it was off.

I never had much trouble getting the nuts off the studs on the engine side. Yes, it's tight (3" ratchet extension helped a ton), but "do-able."

Once unscrewed on both ends, moving it in just the right way to get it off the studs was the most fun. It seems like there should be room, but it always seems to get stuck on something. Why, oh why, couldn't the Mazda engineers have given us a little room for our hands? After cutting up my hands a couple times banging into stuff, now I always use gloves.

Have fun and enjoy the new spooling sound when it's installed.

Dave

 

Everyone has difficulties at different things. Some get pissed off the with heat shield, some end up taking off the y-pipe, some have trouble getting sockets onto the nuts, some have trouble removing the old studs/putting them back in, some put them in nicely but end up with a leak, etc. In other words, everyone is different and will have a little difficulty doing different things. Accept everyone's opinion as a word of advice and expect your own encounters.

Jeremy

 

think it's a day job? or a weekend job?

 

aaaw come on! it's just a few bolts... ha ha...