3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

downpipes?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-28-05, 07:21 PM
  #1  
Trying not to be stock

Thread Starter
 
RevZempoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
downpipes?

I'm looking to finally start modding out the car. Got a paint job coming up soon but then after the stereo and the paint are done i'm going performance. Which downpipe(s) are most recommended? How hard is a downpipe to install by oneself? I haven't messed with anything like that before but I can't imagine it being too hard.
Old 02-28-05, 07:26 PM
  #2  
Where has my $ gone?

iTrader: (12)
 
MakoRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bay Area, Cal/Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,654
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 2 Posts
All aftermarket downpipes are pretty much the same, typically the name brands are a better fit though, but thats if you want to spend the extra $$$. Its not THAT hard to install, just time consuming and annoying since everything is rusted and in a small space.
Old 02-28-05, 08:55 PM
  #3  
Rotors, turbos, and brass

 
Sickass7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pittsburg, KS
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It's a pain in the *** with our cars to take them off if it hasn't been done in a while. Use plenty of carb cleaner or anything else to get into the rust, that way you don't break off the studs on the turbos (Be gentle! If it doesn't want to go, spray it some more and let it soak in). Like Mako said, fitment may be the only issue you run into. I got the megan racing dp/mp combo and it was cheap as hell and went on perfectly, some people didn't have the luck with installation as I did. As long as as the brand name or generic parts are made of good materials, they will be pretty similar.
Old 02-28-05, 09:15 PM
  #4  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,021
Received 866 Likes on 615 Posts
I haven't had to replace my DP yet, so I can't help you there. But someone here on the forum recommended "PB BLASTER" penetrating oil for rusty stuff. I bought some from O'Reilly's to use on another car of mine and the stuff is great. Might be the way to go on those studs.
Old 02-28-05, 09:39 PM
  #5  
Mr. Links

iTrader: (1)
 
Mahjik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 27,595
Received 40 Likes on 26 Posts
Arrow

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=30&mnu=5
Old 02-28-05, 10:06 PM
  #6  
Warming the planet.

 
Gadd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...downpipe+write
Old 03-01-05, 10:20 AM
  #7  
Trying not to be stock

Thread Starter
 
RevZempoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
when installing a downpipe, are you removing the pre-cat?
Old 03-01-05, 10:22 AM
  #8  
VVThat's meVV

 
Klar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, its built into the orginal piece.
Old 03-01-05, 10:36 AM
  #9  
Full Member

 
dpankros's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Really, it's not too bad. Give yourself some additional time, since it will be your first time messing with it.

I recommend a breaker bar for the nuts connecting to the cat too. The first time I installed my DP I almost used a can of spray trying to loosen it up with a standard ratchet and it wouldn't budge. (I kept sliding on my creeper, though) :-) One minute with a breaker bar (and a loud squeeeeeek) and it was off.

I never had much trouble getting the nuts off the studs on the engine side. Yes, it's tight (3" ratchet extension helped a ton), but "do-able."

Once unscrewed on both ends, moving it in just the right way to get it off the studs was the most fun. It seems like there should be room, but it always seems to get stuck on something. Why, oh why, couldn't the Mazda engineers have given us a little room for our hands? After cutting up my hands a couple times banging into stuff, now I always use gloves.

Have fun and enjoy the new spooling sound when it's installed.

Dave

Last edited by dpankros; 03-01-05 at 10:39 AM.
Old 03-01-05, 10:57 AM
  #10  
Hi....

 
jeremyb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RevZempoe
How hard is a downpipe to install by oneself? I haven't messed with anything like that before but I can't imagine it being too hard.
Everyone has difficulties at different things. Some get pissed off the with heat shield, some end up taking off the y-pipe, some have trouble getting sockets onto the nuts, some have trouble removing the old studs/putting them back in, some put them in nicely but end up with a leak, etc. In other words, everyone is different and will have a little difficulty doing different things. Accept everyone's opinion as a word of advice and expect your own encounters.

Jeremy
Old 03-01-05, 01:50 PM
  #11  
Trying not to be stock

Thread Starter
 
RevZempoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
think it's a day job? or a weekend job?
Old 03-01-05, 02:07 PM
  #12  
Don't worry be happy...

iTrader: (1)
 
Montego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,846
Received 787 Likes on 463 Posts
aaaw come on! it's just a few bolts... ha ha...




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:38 PM.