00SPEC

iTrader: (9)

Just want to make sure I am buying the right thing....

SuperPro KIT130K
this includes:

SPF2821Kx1, Control Arm Upper-Inner Kit (FRONT), OE# F131-34-480A
SPF2678Kx1, Control Arm Upper-Inner Kit (REAR), OE# FD01-28-8C0A
SPF2822Kx1, Control Arm Lower-Inner Kit (Front ), OE# FD01-34-460B
SPF2823Kx1, Control Arm Lower-Inner Kit (Rear), OE# FD01-34-470A
SPF2370x1, Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bush.....Power Steering, OE# FD01-32-123 OE# FD01-32-124
SPF2674Kx1, Differential To Cross-member Kit , OE# FD01-28-890A
---------- this is what people refer to as "diff bushings", right?
SPF2675Kx1, Toe Control Arm - Inner Bushing,OE# FD01-28-42Y
SPF2676Kx1, Toe Control Arm - Outer Bushing, OE# FD01-26-230
SPF2677Kx1, Trailing Arm Front To Cross-Member, OE# FD15-28-50X
SPF2680Kx1, Shock Absorber Lower Bushing, OE# FD01-28-710A



Questions:

1) Anything else (short of the 6 non included pillowballs -- FD01-26-220) I should be including with this? Sway Bar end links?

2)Is it OK to do this while keeping the original shocks/springs? I will upgrade them in the future, but $$.

3)Better to get this done at a reputable (but non-rx7) suspension shop? Or an rx7 specialist?

Thanks!

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

1. Do the pillowballs. Yes do the end links

2. Yes you can keep the shocks and springs

3. Any reputable shop can push the bushings in. It WILL take a press.

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Good for you Sir!

Your list looks all inclusive. Any shop can do it.... Or yourself if you have the space n time.

I really need to get off my lazy azz n do mine:-(

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

The hardest part of the job is figuring out how to orient all the components in a press. Some of them like the pillow ***** only press one way and you will ruin the control arm if you do it the wrong way. A few of the bushings also require the lip to be cut off prior to pressing out. The FSM outlines all of this so as long as the shop is competent they should be able to do it.

Ideally you would want to do the shocks and springs at the same time because you will save some money on labor and won't have to align it twice, but if budget limits you it is ok to do them later.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

or maybe to save some money find a place with a press. and take the parts off yourself and bring it to them.. less labor for them to pull the parts off the car

00SPEC

iTrader: (9)

now that is a good idea. I have no press nor room for one (garage space very tight atm, roomate pulled his MR2's engine out recently)


thanks very much for the input Everyone!

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

For the rear you should only replace the stock pieces with poly bushings for-

the upper a-arm inner bushings (and if you do then you can replace the rear lower shock mount spherical bearing.)

Replacing any other rear "bushings" in the FD will cause suspension binding as they are all multiaxis spherical bearings stock (except the compliant front longitudinal control rod bushing).

For the other rear "bushing" positions use the Mazdacomp pieces that have a firmer rubber around the sperical bearings.

Front it is fine to replace all with poly.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

I've installed about 100 sets of Super Pros/Power Flex and have experienced no binding what so ever. It is the stock rubber that causes too much compliance. Everyone has their opinion on what works best.

00SPEC

iTrader: (9)

Because of the ease of the kit, and largely positive reviews on the forum, I am probably just going to use them all around.


Now TII, educate me some if you don't mind:

you're calling them "bushings", why?

are the superpro not direct replacements (e.g. not spherical where they should be?)

thanks!

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Now TII, educate me some if you don't mind:

you're calling them "bushings", why?

The rear suspension of the FD is a multilink type of double wishbone suspension. Because of the design most of the joints go through multi axis movement as the suspension moves.

The rear toe control arms have steel spherical bearings imbedded in some rubber to dampen vibrations.

The rear lower control arm inboard side has steel spherical bearings imbedded in rubber to dampen vibrations.

The rear lower shock mount is a steel spherical bearing in rubber as well, but only because the stock rear upper arm bushings are multi axis sliding bushings for toe control. Once these are replaced with single axis bushings (poly, delrin, nylon, etc) this piece can be replaced with a busing as well.

The rear longitudinal link front bushing is just a bushing, but shaped for compliance in the direction of multi axis movement without affecting its fore/aft movement much at all. Replacing this with poly will decrease fore/aft movement a tiny bit at the expense of binding in the multi axis direction as the poly bushings are shaped incorrectly.

Mazda sells the competition "bushings" for the rubber imbedded spherical bearings that replace the rubber with one of a higher durometer for less compliance.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

I usually replace the inner lower rear control arm bushing with a mazda oem one. The Super Pro kit doesn't cover that one.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

BlueTII - what about the bushing in the upper rear A-arm where the shock mounts?



FWIW, I'm now running the full Mazda competition bushings and enjoying it. Less NVH but not as sharp and direct feeling as the poly. I'm old and no longer track the car so that's a welcome trade off for me.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

BlueTII - what about the bushing in the upper rear A-arm where the shock mounts?


I called that the rear lower shock mount in my above post.

To recap, it is articulated to facilitate the sliding toe bushings in the rear upper arms inner pivots.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

yeah, I see it now... Time for new eyeballs...

00SPEC

iTrader: (9)

Do I need to have the whole mazdacomp race membership to order those spherical versions?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Before I was a MazdaComp member I bought Mazda's competition parts through vendors like Mazdatrix.

You will get better pricing if you are a MazdaComp member!

00SPEC

iTrader: (9)

Awesome Blue, and everyone,

thanks for all the information!

I think I am actually going to do as you said and replace the noted spherical bushings with the mazdacomp ones..and not go with the entire superpro Kit. Once I have some track time I will definitely become a member!

Last_Wolf

iTrader: (11)

Question that relates to this. Do you guys bother installing zerk fittings with the super pro bushings? Any problems with them squeaking etc... in the long run without re greasing?

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

i have the same question. i was planning on doing the zerk fittings when i do all my bushings...

[NA & NB] Zerk fittings when installing poly bushings - ClubRoadster.net

1FooknTiteFD

Out of curiousity, is there any ongoing maintenance associated with these bushings? Do they need to be periodically lubed or greased?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

I have yet to have a set start squeaking. I always apply a liberal amount of the provided grease. Before the polyurethane bushings were available and all they had was delrin, I would drill all the control arms and install zerk fittings so the delrin bushings could be lubed periodically. Those would start to clunk like crazy every few weeks so I won't even use them anymore.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

Would you happen to have any instruction on where on the control arms you installed the fittings?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Just put them along the centerline of the bushing where you will be able to get a grease gun on them while on the car. Drill right through the arm and into the bushing.

Smokey The Talon

iTrader: (33)

Just to clarify...you're saying the only poly bushing to be concerned with is the front of the rear trailing arms as they need to have additional axial movement? Wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything there.

00SPEC

iTrader: (9)

Smokey, from what Blue TII said and what i've pieced together, look here:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...ng-diagram-jpg


I believe he is saying that 2678 is OK to use poly, it will change the multiaxis to linear, and if u change that one it is OK to do 2680 in poly as well.

Diff bushings 2674 are OK in poly.

the toe link bushings (2675/76) and trailing arm (2677) are NOT okay, according to him, in Poly. They are the spherical ones OEM. just paid mazdatrix for MazdaComp versions


dono what he meant by longitudinal link, but I am guessing it is the trailing arm.

correct me please if i am wrong!