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Hi, first of all I would like to let you know that I'm quite new here but I've read about V-mount thing for a while.
I've some question about the V-mount thing. I've learned that the stock Intercooler and Radiator position was like a poor design thing but the question is "does the V-mount necessary?"
What if I have the stock engine without modifying anything, lightly tuned with PowerFC. Do I have to do the V-mount?
The weather in my country is kind of hot (around 32-35 C, 90-95 F)
My temperature gauge is fine, the level is always in mid-range of the gauge. A/C works fine.
here's my current setup from ex-owner
Thanks
btw this car is not a race one, she's for my daily use (my 350z also)
shift my gear about 2k-2.5k rpm
V mount is for better air flow
and I believe that’s a reliability mod
or you can just upgrade intercooler and radiator to better ones
remember the more stock it is the rarer and price on 7 goes up but what do I know look up vmount vs FMIC
That air box needs to go, and need an air guide for your SMIC Cool Charge Intercooler Duct , easiest to find a stock intake, or an auto-exe/knighsports intake that does not pull air from the radiator. Seen that ARC air box blow more engines than I can count in the 90's.
Properly ducted SMIC is best of you have/want a stock hood.
V-Mount is best if you have a properly ducted vented hood(not just a random vented hood, a proper vent customized specifically for your setup).
FMIC is a bad choice IMO, lots of anecdotal "success" stories with them but bottom line it is still distant second place to v-mount if you are going to mod your car that drastically.
That air box needs to go, and need an air guide for your SMIC Cool Charge Intercooler Duct , easiest to find a stock intake, or an auto-exe/knighsports intake that does not pull air from the radiator. Seen that ARC air box blow more engines than I can count in the 90's.
Properly ducted SMIC is best of you have/want a stock hood.
V-Mount is best if you have a properly ducted vented hood(not just a random vented hood, a proper vent customized specifically for your setup).
FMIC is a bad choice IMO, lots of anecdotal "success" stories with them but bottom line it is still distant second place to v-mount if you are going to mod your car that drastically.
So I have to remove that stupid ARC Box and put the stock intake box instead of it right? So the setup would be like this?
You can keep the current intercooler, however you will REALLY want/need to get ducting for it. That top metal guide is not going to be enough. With the IC the way it is right now you are going to essentially guarantee that you'll heat soak the IC by constantly blowing hot air from the radiator directly into your intercooler. You can modify a stock IC duct to fit with the GReddy SMIC, it won't be pretty but it will be better than what you have currently.
If you keep your power goals in check than you should be fine with a well ducted SMIC. I would also recommend running a simple water/meth injection system, it doesn't need to be fancy just something that is pressure activated about 2psi under your max boost will be fine.
Also, you said that you shift the FD at 2k - 2.5krpms... DO NOT DO THIS!!!! Carbon buildup is a real problem with these cars in stock form due to how the rotary needs oil to be injected into the combustion chamber for lubrication. Running the car to redline under load (do not just free-rev it) is actually very healthy for the motor since it helps burn off carbon deposits. If you constantly shift in low rpms than you'll be forever building up carbon deposits, but never burning them off. Doing a water injection system will actually help, significantly, with reducing or completely removing carbon deposits. On the other hand, you can periodically "Steam Clean" your engine internals by doing something like mentioned here: Emissions Removal (it is entirely safe, I used to do it to my own car every 6 months or so before I got a water injection kit installed).
With your setup, if you’re just gonna drive it around and street the car. It’s fine. If you want to go to the track, you’re gonna have a bad time. I have a Greddy V mount and on an 87* day, my temps didn’t go past 87*C during 20 minute sessions.
No. The SMIC may not be optimized, but there are aftermarket designs that will give acceptable IATs for a stock or mildly modified street driven car. As already mentioned good ducting is a must.
I think a V-mount is the ideal setup, regardless of hood, climate, other mods. The original stock set up was an odd compromise after you see the v-mount design, and all SMIC upgrades were effectively improvements on a fundamentally flawed design.
Thanks for the advice everyone!! Really apreciated
however I've searched for more information about SMIC (google SMIC RX-7). I've founded out that there're some setup as same as mine.
Does this mean that I have SMIC now but lack of some duct for my IC?
If I'm right so I can put the stock duct over my IC duct right now?
I believe that now I got the Greddy IC with ARC intake.
sorry for stupid question but I have no idea what the ex-owner did with this car.
Your I/C size is fine for your current needs, but it looks like you are missing some ducting in front of it as I can see you radiator fans in your second picture. You should fix that. Should be cheap and easy.
You also need to get COLD air to your intake air filters. You are currently sucking in HOT air from the engine bay.
It looks like you can add the stock airbox duct to your current setup. But if that is not an option then you should get something else that is ducted like the M2 or Pettit intake kits.
If I'm right so I can put the stock duct over my IC duct right now?
The stock duct would be a good start, but the outlet may not cover the entire heat exchanging area of your IC.
You could get a stock duct and modify. The needed shape will already be there and you can modify/rivet sheet metal to the stock duct to create a better inlet and outlet.
Or find the proper duct for that IC (may be difficult/time consuming).
In addition I highly recommend extending the inlet of the duct into the front bumper opening. That way you force some of the air to actually go across the IC fins. I saw dramatic drops in temperature by doing so on my setup: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...temps-1070765/
I had the same concern when I first got my FD. Hearing a lot about engine overheating issue and high IAT due to inadequate stock radiator and poor intercooler, I was paranoid and decided to get a V-mount before getting the car, thinking "it needs a VMIC sooner or later". But the truth is an SMIC and a larger radiator will serve you well especially with the aid of Power FC (showing IAT, water temp, boost, and injector duty)
The stock duct would be a good start, but the outlet may not cover the entire heat exchanging area of your IC.
In addition I highly recommend extending the inlet of the duct into the front bumper opening. That way you force some of the air to actually go across the IC fins. I saw dramatic drops in temperature by doing so on my setup: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...temps-1070765/
^^^ Very good advice.
I did something similar to this on one of my previous FD's, it supported just over 300 RWHP with the ARC SMIC, which is smaller than the one the OP has.
Proper ducting + a splash of water wetter + Koyo Triple pass + OP's set up with the Greddy/ARC combo = If you're overheating there's a bigger problem.
I've run a similar set up for years in the summertime California desert heat with no problems ever. I have a Blitz SMIC and a cheap bastard airbox, but other than that, our cars are set up closely. A good radiator, proper ducting, a splash of Water Wetter and maybe a lower temp thermostat should be all you need.
Your questions would be better addressed in the new member section or answered with a little effort by you searching. But to answer your question, if you want a new radiator with a SMIC, get one. Just make sure it’s specific to the FD RX7 with proper inlet/outlets and mounting points. Including mounting points for the stock fan assembly. There’s really nothing better.
Koyo seems to cool a little better but Fluidyne fits better and is still an upgrade from stock. Ron Davis/AWR are expensive but nice. Stock fans are hard to beat. Keep em.
I bought a three-pass Koyo and made it fit with my dual oil coolers (another great cooling upgrade to think about: dual oil coolers from an R1 or R2 model), sway bar brace and A/C condenser. You might have to use some patience to make it all fit, but it will.
The stock fans are good, but the RX8 fans, the version with the four wires, that match the RX 7 wires are better. They draw less current, are quieter, and the RX8 blades move more air. Simply rewire using the stock plugs from the RX7 fans and reuse the stock RX7 fan shroud. The RX8 fans and blades fit perfectly with no modifications needed. Just color match all four wires. The RX8 motors brand new from Mazda are $55 each with typical 30% discount. Can get used fan blades from RX8 at junk yard or on Ebay usually or get new from Mazda for around $100 each. Cheaper to get used blades. I repainted my stock RX7 plastic shroud with Eastwood plastic trim reconditioner paint and painted the new motors black with caliper paint. Looks brand new and works great.
The stock fans are good, but the RX8 fans, the version with the four wires, that match the RX 7 wires are better. They draw less current, are quieter, and the RX8 blades move more air. Simply rewire using the stock plugs from the RX7 fans and reuse the stock RX7 fan shroud. The RX8 fans and blades fit perfectly with no modifications needed. Just color match all four wires. The RX8 motors brand new from Mazda are $55 each with typical 30% discount. Can get used fan blades from RX8 at junk yard or on Ebay usually or get new from Mazda for around $100 each. Cheaper to get used blades. I repainted my stock RX7 plastic shroud with Eastwood plastic trim reconditioner paint and painted the new motors black with caliper paint. Looks brand new and works great.
The stock fans are good, but the RX8 fans, the version with the four wires, that match the RX 7 wires are better. They draw less current, are quieter, and the RX8 blades move more air. Simply rewire using the stock plugs from the RX7 fans and reuse the stock RX7 fan shroud. The RX8 fans and blades fit perfectly with no modifications needed. Just color match all four wires. The RX8 motors brand new from Mazda are $55 each with typical 30% discount. Can get used fan blades from RX8 at junk yard or on Ebay usually or get new from Mazda for around $100 each. Cheaper to get used blades. I repainted my stock RX7 plastic shroud with Eastwood plastic trim reconditioner paint and painted the new motors black with caliper paint. Looks brand new and works great.
Originally Posted by kensin
do you have a write up on this lol
I went through it fairly recently. The stock fans work really well. The aesthetics of the new ones are nice.
I've just installed the PowerFC Commander and found out that
My coolant temp is about 84C and IAT around 67C
with my current configuration. Is that ok or too hot?
anyway I've found out that my boost seems abnormal. I'll figure it out when I got time.
04-25-18, 02:31 AM
