Do I need to replace the engine?
Do I need to replace the engine?
Hi,
I have a '93 RX-7 R1 and have the following questions.
1. If the EGR valve is bad (i.e. the amber "Check' light is on), is there any chance it will pass a smog test?
2. The threads of the oil filler cap are coated with a greenish, milky substance. The dealer told me that this is a symptom of coolant leaking into the engine oil, which is caused by a leak in a crucial seal. They say that the replacing the seal itself is so much labor that they don't even bother. Instead they replace the entire engine (at about $5k). Is what they're telling me true? Or is there an alternate and proper way to fix this without spend $5000? Another symptom is that the engine temperature starts to go up under heavier loading, especially when the 2nd turbo kicks in.
Thanks!
I have a '93 RX-7 R1 and have the following questions.
1. If the EGR valve is bad (i.e. the amber "Check' light is on), is there any chance it will pass a smog test?
2. The threads of the oil filler cap are coated with a greenish, milky substance. The dealer told me that this is a symptom of coolant leaking into the engine oil, which is caused by a leak in a crucial seal. They say that the replacing the seal itself is so much labor that they don't even bother. Instead they replace the entire engine (at about $5k). Is what they're telling me true? Or is there an alternate and proper way to fix this without spend $5000? Another symptom is that the engine temperature starts to go up under heavier loading, especially when the 2nd turbo kicks in.
Thanks!
dunno bout the EGR (probably not?) but they're actually probably right about the engine. if the coolant is mixing with oil then they're probably right, its a coolant seal which basically requires a rebuild to fix. you can get a better deal than the dealer though, i'm sure.
when you say the temp goes up, how are you reading that? stock gauge?
when you say the temp goes up, how are you reading that? stock gauge?
Yes, stock gauge. Where normal temperature is 45% of red, when I load the engine, it will approach 75-80%. It comes back to "normal" in less than a minute after I mellow out on the throttle. Thanks for your input!
2.Airborne is right - if your oil is turning milky, you're probably leaking coolant into the oil passages which is a sign of a bad engine.
Actually, what hasn't been mentioned is copper block weld. I haven't used this stuff personally, but have seen it at the local Pep Boys and know that other users on this forum have used this stuff with some success. There is also another product which is a gel instead of copper, but I can't remeber the name.
What this stuff does (after you perform the right procedures and dump it into your cooling system) is form a buildup of copper where the leaks are.
I don't know how long or how well this works, but this has delayed the replacement of engines for some users. Do a search under Copper Block
Hope this helps,
M
Actually, what hasn't been mentioned is copper block weld. I haven't used this stuff personally, but have seen it at the local Pep Boys and know that other users on this forum have used this stuff with some success. There is also another product which is a gel instead of copper, but I can't remeber the name.
What this stuff does (after you perform the right procedures and dump it into your cooling system) is form a buildup of copper where the leaks are.
I don't know how long or how well this works, but this has delayed the replacement of engines for some users. Do a search under Copper Block
Hope this helps,
M
1. I believe the sole purpose of the EGR valve / system is so that an engine CAN meet smog standards. IMHO, you won't pass unless: a) you are a lucky SOB or b) the tester is extremely incompetent or is looking the other way (hint hint)
M
M
If your stock temp gauge raises above half way (level across), the engine is OVERHEATING. The stock temp gauge is not linear, so if you see it move after the car is up to temp, you've got trouble.
Sounds like an engine rebuild/replacement is in order. Should be able to have it done for $3500 or $4000.
DO NOT USE STOP LEAK OR "COPPER BLOCK" IN THE CAR! It will just plug up the coolant hoses and the radiator and make your overheating problem worse after you get the engine done. Think about it. If it will plug up a leak, it will plug everything else up too! Turbo coolant lines, throttle body, etc.
I would stop driving it until you get it fixed. It will just contunue to do damage, and parts are expensive!
Good luck
Jeff
Sounds like an engine rebuild/replacement is in order. Should be able to have it done for $3500 or $4000.
DO NOT USE STOP LEAK OR "COPPER BLOCK" IN THE CAR! It will just plug up the coolant hoses and the radiator and make your overheating problem worse after you get the engine done. Think about it. If it will plug up a leak, it will plug everything else up too! Turbo coolant lines, throttle body, etc.
I would stop driving it until you get it fixed. It will just contunue to do damage, and parts are expensive!
Good luck
Jeff
Thanks for the info. The Mazda dealer told me $4500-5000 for the new engine. Naturally, I'd like to save the $1000, but are there many reliable independent shops that install rebuilt RX-7 engines? I live in southern CA (LA/Long Beach) and I'm wondering if anyone could recommend an independent shop that they've had a good experience with.
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