DIY rebuilt block is in the car and running - a few little issues.
02-13-09, 05:20 PM
#1
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DIY rebuilt block is in the car and running - a few little issues.
Hi chaps...
Spent all day putting the engine back into the car. Started on the button with no problems.
Just unsure if all the sensors are plugged in etc....
Oil pressure sender is plugged in because oil gauge is working (good!)
I have a constand buzzing sound from the coolant buzzer!
The sender on the filler neck is pluged in etc. But is there something else I might have missed?
Also curious as to where the sender from the sump should plug into?
Also, what's the connector underneath the oil pressure sender??
It is a little hard to figure everything out is the loom/senders has had some connectors etc fall off in the past, then repaired. Just unsure what goes where.
As a good start, at least the oil pressure is connected properly.
Another little thing is that the car is hunting from about 850rpm to 1500rpm when on idle. Any reason why this would be?
I noticed the connection on the BOV is very bad and a part of it has been siliconed in the past. Could this be drawing air in causing the hunting?
thanks for any help offered!!
Spent all day putting the engine back into the car. Started on the button with no problems.
Just unsure if all the sensors are plugged in etc....
Oil pressure sender is plugged in because oil gauge is working (good!)
I have a constand buzzing sound from the coolant buzzer!
The sender on the filler neck is pluged in etc. But is there something else I might have missed?
Also curious as to where the sender from the sump should plug into?
Also, what's the connector underneath the oil pressure sender??
It is a little hard to figure everything out is the loom/senders has had some connectors etc fall off in the past, then repaired. Just unsure what goes where.
As a good start, at least the oil pressure is connected properly.
Another little thing is that the car is hunting from about 850rpm to 1500rpm when on idle. Any reason why this would be?
I noticed the connection on the BOV is very bad and a part of it has been siliconed in the past. Could this be drawing air in causing the hunting?
thanks for any help offered!!
02-13-09, 06:27 PM
#3
where did you hook up the coolant buzzer at? It is a Black/Red wire but doesnt get connected the the connector with a Black/Red Wire. These are two connectors people mix up. They are located right by the oil filler neck. The one it should be on is a black connector. The white connector with the Black/Red wire is for the A/C.
02-14-09, 10:25 AM
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Engine:
HKS Twin Air Filters
Air Pump Removed
Air con pump removed
Blitz Dump Valve
APL Intercooler
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro Fuel Pump
4 x 850cc Denso Injectors
Full Non Sequential Turbo Conversion
HKS Downpipe
Re-Amemiya Centre Section
Racing Beat Back Box
Apexi Power FC Commander
I know for sure actually that it isn't plugged in as should be.
It's plugged in etc at the filler neck, but not at the right hand side anywhere. I noticed a connector has broken off on the battery/starter wire side of the wiring that the coolant level should connect to.
I might just run a new wire from there right upto the connector on the filler neck.
This should work ok surely?
HKS Twin Air Filters
Air Pump Removed
Air con pump removed
Blitz Dump Valve
APL Intercooler
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro Fuel Pump
4 x 850cc Denso Injectors
Full Non Sequential Turbo Conversion
HKS Downpipe
Re-Amemiya Centre Section
Racing Beat Back Box
Apexi Power FC Commander
I know for sure actually that it isn't plugged in as should be.
It's plugged in etc at the filler neck, but not at the right hand side anywhere. I noticed a connector has broken off on the battery/starter wire side of the wiring that the coolant level should connect to.
I might just run a new wire from there right upto the connector on the filler neck.
This should work ok surely?
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