What is the difference between these two FD 13B rear housings?

n3g110c50 (1999+) vs n3yc10c50 (1993-1995)

 

the first number was listed when Mazda released the rotary parts restoration notice several years ago. I could never get it to work for Mazda USA. It appears to be the current Japan part number.

the second number is what you can order through Mazda USA -Mazdaspeed Motorsports. I was having an issue getting it to come up in a search, but it can be ordered using that number.

As far as I know they are entirely interchangeable, if not the same part with a different number.

free shipping from Japan though, probably won’t beat this price if true:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/355025101049
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other than that stuff above, the JDM housing would/should have an Allen plug for the oil pressure port

 

thanks, I was totally ignorant of that point.
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the 1993-1999, oil pressure senders are so bad,
(how bad are they)
they are so bad, Mazda replaced it with a boost gauge for 99

and then they just plug the hole in the iron with a plug, 9WR9-94-1000
Cosmo is the same. its nice because you can take the plug out and put the oil pressure sender right in

 

先生, ありがとうございました。

 

The 99+ boost gauge is also no great shakes. It barely moves, and when it does, you need to have your eyes on the road not on the gauge.

I installed a $15 oil pressure gauge (Equus) mounted in the lower of the double din space, fed by a tube from a pedestal mounted under the oil filter.

After seven years it is now leaking oil into my dash.

 

probably more ignorance on my part, but nobody makes an electronic sensor/gauge equivalent to fit?
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I think they exist. But not for $15.

 

I saw somewhere that the stock oil pressure sensor can be made reliable by simply using some hardline to mount it some distance away from the stock location... don't know how true this is

 

Usually, in high vibration racing environments at least, to get sensors to live, adaptors (avoiding brass ones) plus soft line/remote mount is the way to get them to live.

People do install them of course, generally, in-cabin capillary tubes are frowned upon over here.....getting squirted in the nuts with 100c oil wouldn't be too much fun!

 

that old adage; got what you paid for … and funny how a rotary is such a smooth engine, but those buzzy piston banger engines aren’t loosing their direct mounted sensors … 🤔
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so I bought that one and a front REW plate for $988 with free shipping from Japan. It was $100 less than my price from Motorsports which also included free shipping (over $1000). You’re better buying these parts direct from Japan with the current economic factors if you’re doing your due diligence.
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delivered yesterday as ordered, had to pay a $36 cash-only customs fee to the UPS driver, so $1,023 total for one each front & rear FD3S REW iron plates including USA tax (ebay purchase) and shipping from Japan.

compared to $650 tax & shipping from Irvine, CA via Mazda Motorsports for a Cosmo-RE thin intermediate iron plate because I ordered it in advance of the end plates and didn’t think to check Japan pricing first. At the time I was looking for used plates, but not only hard to find, they’re priced high compared to the shipped JP pricing above and then of questionable used quality as well.

just fyi and still claim you can rebuilt an existing 13b-REW engine buying new Mazda OE parts individually compared to the current $9,000+ price that new crate engines are selling for.
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