Hey again guys, some of you may have notice a thread by me earlier today, hower I was in the process of doing a compression test on my 7, then when i took off the coil plug i relise that the spark plugs are SUCKED or sunken into the housing. I tried using a spark socket to get it out but the socket couldnt get hold of the spark, as you can see from the picture the nut threat on the spark have gone too deep in the housing not allowing any of that nut shape to go into my socket. Anyone know what the hell happened? BTW whats that un-used hole with the thread? just above the top plug.










[img=http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/345/picture009.jpg]

 

You need a socket with a narrow collar. You can get it in any hardware store.

the hole on top is where a knock sensor goes, as the 13B only has one, it is propably in the other housing.

 

Are you sure man? The link below the pic is to another picture which shows the actual clearance in there, its between 2-2.5mm is there even a socket that narrow??

 

Jip... what went, must come out ;-)


I use a spark plug driver which is used for agricultural engines (like on a briggs&stratton lawn mower engine)

You light want to check what plugs were put in it as they don't seem to be NGK's

 

from the picture i can make out EGV??? if so they may be NGK - B10EGV which are motorcycle plugs that some guys run on the FD. I run these plugs, they are great. the way to get them in/out is to have someone put your spark plug socket on a lathe and grind it down a bit so that the socket fits. if not snap-on and craftsman make thin wall sockets....buy one of those.

 

I'd like to know more about those plugs. What do they look like, why would anybody run them on a rotary?

 

Those are likely EGV plugs. Racing Beat sells a socket to remove them.

 

Definitely EGV's... No worries, just get a thin walled socket.

Do a search on here. LOTS of info on these sockets but short-and-sweet answer is they are a good fit with a good heat range for more boost that allows the plug not to fowl as quickly as an 11 heat range plug. It also helps with the idle on the same cars.

 

Depending on what mods you have, consider going back to stock plugs. And don't forget anti-seize with whatever goes back in. And since this is obviously your first time, I'd recommend only ONE plug and wire at a time, so you don't cross up wires.

+1 on the threaded knock-sensor hole. MAZDA put one in every housing, but only installed the sensor on the front housing.

 

oh learn something new every day. I'm gonna have to look into these

 

Dont bother buying a special socket, you can custom make a spark plug tool with a little bit of elbow grease. It really does not take a lot of work to make a regular 11/16" socket work in that tight spot.

Firstly, cut off about a 1/4" from the very end of the socket. This will get rid of the inward chamfer on the tip of the socket and will make the end square. Then simply grind off the exterior of the socket until the socket wall is thin enough:



Then you are off to the races.

I run BR10EIX NGK plugs in my car and my custom tool works great.

=Benjamin

 

Are you running the motorcycle plugs? That would cause your problem. You need a thin-walled socked. I'd ditch those plugs all together. Most are not resistor plugs, and have been known to cause interference with the ignition system.

 

Thin wall sockets will get those out